Looking for info on safe parameters

Looking through the stickys and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I am wanting to know "safe" parameters for an intake, tuner, and exhaust truck. Specifically egts, Ebp, boost. If a threat already exists I apologize. Planning on heading to Kem for my first cab lift in the next few months but until then I want to have an idea where my numbers were before hand. Should I be considering a wastegate option when I go to 6.0 manis and uppipes and fully remove the egr?
Thanks

Leftthenleft said:

Looking through the stickys and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I am wanting to know "safe" parameters for an intake, tuner, and exhaust truck. Specifically egts, Ebp, boost. If a threat already exists I apologize. Planning on heading to Kem for my first cab lift in the next few months but until then I want to have an idea where my numbers were before hand. Should I be considering a wastegate option when I go to 6.0 manis and uppipes and fully remove the egr?
Thanks

Click to expand...

Really depends on how "safe" you want to be. For a non-studded truck and being very conservative:
EGTs 1350
EBP 50
Boost 40
I am sure a lot of guys would say much higher on all of those values.

As far as WG goes...what are your plans for the truck and what are your goals?

This winter I'm thinking studs, valvesprings, clutch, egr delete, 6.0 manifolds with uppipes, Sean's dp, some no limit piping, cab mounts, and possibly a little work on the stock turbos. I would like to stay on stock fuel for a year or so and then be able to tear into it again and to 7-800hp. Would also like to get with alradco for radiator and intercooler, being that my truck is a job 1. Are Pistons something I should look into the first time or wait until an issue arises and bore it?

My highest numbers were at the strip a few weeks ago
-1550 egts, even with de fueling at 1400
-67 Ebp. Every pass
-42 boost

Thanks, chris

Leftthenleft said:

This winter I'm thinking studs, valvesprings, clutch, egr delete, 6.0 manifolds with uppipes, Sean's dp, some no limit piping, cab mounts, and possibly a little work on the stock turbos. I would like to stay on stock fuel for a year or so and then be able to tear into it again and to 7-800hp. Would also like to get with alradco for radiator and intercooler, being that my truck is a job 1. Are Pistons something I should look into the first time or wait until an issue arises and bore it?

My highest numbers were at the strip a few weeks ago
-1550 egts, even with de fueling at 1400
-67 Ebp. Every pass
-42 boost

Thanks, chris

Click to expand...

IMO if you are making passes, you run your truck hard and especially if you plan to add fuel, I would do the WG when you are doing the exhaust manny and DP. Sean's DP is the only I could get to fit since the bell housing on the ZF6 is larger than an auto. IMO pistons are a complete crap shoot. We didn't know they were an issue back when I did studs so I still have the stockers. If I ever add fuel, I will do the pistons. At least when you get the heads off you can inspect them for cracks.
Around 70 psi is when the valve will start to float. Mine has been as high as 72 a few times on the stock valvetrain and so far no issues but that always makes me nerveous.

Ya I hear ya on the nervous. Thanks for the help. I saw one of your threads about the down pipe from Sean being the only one that fits so I went that route to save hassle. Ha. I have about half the parts sitting in the garage so I'm just waiting till I can drive it to georgia

If you already running it hard your planning on studding it. I was sled pulling and racing my truck with stock head bolts for a good year before I started pushing coolant above 42psi. A rule of thumb I always gone by for egts is 1200 drg is fine for towing or anything that's substained for period of time, 1400 is ok for 30 seconds if you passing on a hill or what not, and 1600+ is good for a drag pass or sled pull pass, I personally maxed out the EGT reading on my truck, stopped reading the temp at 1857 (I believe, it was a weird last two digits) and that was on a sled pull, still took a few seconds for it to read normal again. And the boost and ebp seem a little high on what I would do on a stock valve train. Try to keep your numbers around what b585 said, that way you won't risk floating a valve and make contact with a piston. These are great motors when deleted, and make awesome power for what little money needs to be spent, but it can get expensive real quick

I am going to back the tune off until I stud it then. Sounds like my safest option knowing I can't keep my foot outta the throttle.