Finally happened...

Cfox17

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I finally blew the head gaskets and up pipes on my 6.4. I had a terrible hissing/screeching sound coming from engine compartment, I took it to the shop hoping it was just an exhaust manifold leak, turn out the studs were broken off in the head, gaskets were blown, and manifolds were warped. I went ahead and ordered the BD up pipes manifold kit and ARP head studs, anything else I should look at while I got it torn down?

Also, I have a weird feeling when shifting from 3rd to 4th, almost feels like it slips or something. I am thinking it is the Mini Maxx tuning though, any ideas? Lord I hope I won't need a transmission build too, I am already $5700 in the engine.

I thought about dropping a single S366 turbo in it while I had cab off and everything, any real advantage to doing that setup over the stock turbos?

Thanks guys!
 

wiseguy

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replace the lifters, check the rockers and bridges ,check front cover for cavitation. i would personally replace the pitons while it is apart. i would keep the compounds if anything upgrade them
 

78f100

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X2 on pistons and lifters if you can swing it. It's expensive but helps eliminate worries if it's gonna crack a piston.
 

webb06

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X2 on pistons and lifters if you can swing it. It's expensive but helps eliminate worries if it's gonna crack a piston.


Question, are the standard oem pistons still cracking or are they an "upgrade" from the original oem. Just curious as everyone suggests ih pistons or delipped oem these days and I'm curious if the standard oem are more reliable nowadays


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6fodays

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90% of the time the hard 3-4 shift is a tuning flaw. And x2 on lifters/pushrods/cam and pistons if you can do it. Just my .2


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wiseguy

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Question, are the standard oem pistons still cracking or are they an "upgrade" from the original oem. Just curious as everyone suggests ih pistons or delipped oem these days and I'm curious if the standard oem are more reliable nowadays


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The new mahle pistons are an improvement over the original design. the ford bowl design is different than the international version. the lip is stress riser removing it helps.. I normally run ih pistons on all 6.4 engines they not much more than new ford/mahle pistons.
 

Rubenk

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rockers, pistons, pushrods, oil cooler, for sure. I also did idlers/tensioners when mine was apart.

Really all depends on budget how far you want to go.

Make absolutely sure your heads are good and check, pressure checked, and re-checked by a VERY reputable shop. Have them shipped out if you have to.
 

Cfox17

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Can you guys point me in the right direction for a good set of lifters, push rods, and pistons?

I was on River City and found push rods and OEM lifters, is that the way to go?

As far as pistons, I found international heavy duty for $1285.
 

Rubenk

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OEM rockers, and you want upgraded pushrods.

Any of the sites vendors can price a kit for you, give them a call. Rudys, MPD, Midwest, SDP, etc...
 

wiseguy

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riffraff has the best price on pistons 786+ shipping unless you want them delipped. rcd is who i get push rods, camshafts and valve springs from rcd will usually make a package deal. I usually use either sealed power or melling lifters 1/2 the price as ford
 

wiseguy

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rockers, pistons, pushrods, oil cooler, for sure. I also did idlers/tensioners when mine was apart.

Really all depends on budget how far you want to go.

Make absolutely sure your heads are good and check, pressure checked, and re-checked by a VERY reputable shop. Have them shipped out if you have to.

x2 on heads check your guides its very easy to dump 1000 bucks on the heads
 

Cfox17

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What are advantages of ceramic coating the pistons ($1200) versus just the bare coating option ($786)?
 

78f100

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I got my lifters, pushrods, cam, and valve springs from RCD. They have been great, I'm sure there are other good choices out there also but they are hard to beat on a package deal. I have had great luck with IH pistons so far. I am not sure how the new oem pistons will hold up, I haven't used a set yet.
The coating on top of the pistons will help with heat, having the skirts coated helps with lubrication and scuffing. It's not a must imo for a regular truck but never hurts, the pistons already come with coating on part of the skirt. Tear your motor down and measure everything first, the truck will be down longer but some decisions may be made for you. Like if any cylinders are out of spec then IH pistons will be a no go as they only come in standard bore.
 

sootie

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Call Morgan at Midwest Diesel and Auto. Tell him your situation and he will look after you.
 

wiseguy

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What are advantages of ceramic coating the pistons ($1200) versus just the bare coating option ($786)?

coating adds about 1mil barrier to top of the piston reducing the piston temperature. most street driven vehicles i personally don't see the need for coatings pistons. coating allows the combustion temperature to run hotter than the piston was designed for. International pistons were designed for durability the 08-10 ford trucks got different bowl for lower emissions but also resulting in weaker design prone to cracking. upgrading makes total sense now the motor is apart. Coating only adds an extra level of protection. Spending few grand more now is better than doing it all over again in a year when something else goes. Not to derail but if anyone has the mahle number for the maxforce style piston i can probably get them a lot cheaper the mahle catalog only has the improved style ford piston
 
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Cfox17

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Alright guys. I appreciate all the help.

Another question, if working with River City to get a package, how are their pistons? Or should I really just try to get the set of International heavy duty?
 
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f350guy

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So to drop pistons in a standard bore block, I assume it will need to visit a machine shop to hone the cylinders at least or are you guys talking about doing it in frame? Would it just make more sense to buy a short block then?

My bottom end is fine, been ******d since 9000 miles, and I am the only owner of the truck. I am just exploring all options for the time when I need to do studs as I like the idea of stronger than stock pistons.

What kills these pistons anyway? Excessive heat probably?
 

wiseguy

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pistons fail simply because it s poor design . best to remove the engine completely disassemble clean replace bearings and gaskets anyway. its more labor but not expensive as far as bore's good inspection will dictate what you need to do. If the cylinder walls look good a quick clean up with ball hone is all that is needed that can be done at home cheap if the cylinder walls look bad the block needs bored anyway
 

powerstrokesd14

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It's best to have a machinist check out the cylinders. With the heat that these blocks are exposed to it is fairly easy for them to be out of round. Example imagine your piston reciprocating up and down inside an hour glass. Think how long your rings will last after passing through the tightest spot in the bore.


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