Traction Bars

Okay so I've been thinking about putting traction bars on my ccsb to help with shifting and I'm going to be building them myself and I've always thought they needed to be in line with the driveshaft but what do you do if you have a two piece drive shaft? Are they still only the length of the drive shaft? Or do you go all the way to the back of the transfer case? If so the things will damn near be parallel with the frame. I'm pretty sure the answer is to go with the same angle and length as the main part of the driveshaft but I want to double check with you guys.

I also wouldn't mind knowing this and what/where the best joints are to use/buy.

driveshaft angle has nothing to do with correct geometry on traction bars however, they often end up very similar.

use a heim joint on the frame end and a poly bushing on the other.

i dont have the space to type how much goes into the calculations of how the suspension cycles and where the point of least bind is....

So you can't use Heim joints on both ends? And this is why everytime I think about doing this I get overwhelmed and forget about it. It looks so straight forward and then everywhere you look someone is doing it a different way.

smcox1 said:

So you can't use Heim joints on both ends? And this is why everytime I think about doing this I get overwhelmed and forget about it. It looks so straight forward and then everywhere you look someone is doing it a different way.

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you can, but it transfers all road vibration and harshness thru the entire chassis. not ideal if you ask me...

Do yall leave them in a neutral state or add a littel pre load. I was going to also use 1/4 inch rubber between my frame mount and frame rail since ill be bolting my mount with 4 bolts or is the extra rubber not needed.

I was just thinking for ease of adjustment.

The more I think about it they seem like they would always be in a bind whether you hit a pot hole, fill the tank up/the tank empty, or going through dips in driveways.

IMO they need to have same or similar mounts or geometry as the front leaf spring mount. But really I'm speaking out of my azz, I don't really understand how they wouldn't bind most of the time

joe d said:

Do yall leave them in a neutral state or add a littel pre load. I was going to also use 1/4 inch rubber between my frame mount and frame rail since ill be bolting my mount with 4 bolts or is the extra rubber not needed.

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you want it solid mounted, not rubber in between

Anybody else have any info? So far all we figured out is how to mount them LOL

Here's a thread from awhile back but the math hasn't changed.

http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums/18-1994-1997-obs-power-stroke-aftermarket-performance/22953-traction-bars-2.html

Helped a lot. I guess the thing to do is just to test it by loading it down and jacking it up.

Metalcloak duroflex joints are nice. Less vibes!

You can use poly Jonny Joints from Currie Industries. That's the same company that make the custom 9" Ford rears. No clanking noises after extended use like the metal Heim joints.

Ballistic ends are decent.

So how loud are tractor links ive seen many use them but damn they gadda be loud.

Look at Metalcloak duroflex on YouTube.

mtsnowrunner said:

Look at Metalcloak duroflex on YouTube.

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Those look really nice.

old man dave said:

You can use poly Jonny Joints from Currie Industries. That's the same company that make the custom 9" Ford rears. No clanking noises after extended use like the metal Heim joints.

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Agreed. I've always used heim joints with the Teflon lining, but haven't done a set in probably 6 years.... will be trying these next time.

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