Resurgence of a F100

Depends on the spring pressure and rpms. You kind of need to know both.

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But a set of decent 5/16 pushrods and 110 or 120 pound valve springs would be great insurance. Plus they are cheap.

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I think the springs it calls for are like 308 lbs/in. At that rate, I'm thinking a stiffer set would be a wise choice huh. Rpms....I don't plan on high revs, and this isn't a race engine nor will it ever see the track. It'll mostly be a cruiser, but I'm sure at some point or another it'll get wound out because, well, we all do it.


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That's not seat pressure though. A 120 pound seat pressure spring will be about 300 pounds at full open I'd say. But either way an upgraded set of springs would be a good idea

Oh it'll get the springs for sure. That's a given.

I told you guys, it's been YEARS since I've fooled around with this stuff, so forgive me if I ask a dumb obvious question somewhere along this journey.


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Looking at carbs now. A 600cfm should be plenty for what I'm doing right?


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Ok, you guys that have spent time around a machine shop, I need opinions on this head. You can see a couple small gouges around the valve seat and around the chamber.


This one is up through the head. Upper portion of the valve stem is still in there as you can see, but notice the cracks on either side.


Is this head salvageable/repairable?

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6speedsd said:

Yeah really. Oh well. Bore measured 3.9975 by my mic so looks like it's never been bored before, which is shocking. An original 1977 302.


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If it is the factory stock motor for it, the castings on the block and heads should be a D7 or a D6. If its aD0,1,2 or a C block your better off because those are a higher nickel content block and are stronger. If the castings on the heads are D0,1, or D2 they are the better flowing heads due to being pre smog motors. C is the 60's designator and D is 70's if you didn't know.
The head is kinda iffy with the cracks by the seat. The cyl you may be lucky and can just hone the small scratch out.
I'm just starting to learn about the diesel world on a smaller 4cyl scale. Lol

I can't find didly on the heads. At least not on the one I have pulled. I see a "3" a "12" and a "T". That's pretty much it. 12 is by one of the plug holes, the T is on top of one end, and the 3 is top on other end.

Valve cover still has the factory label on it, and reads "D7TE-9C485-BC". Question is, is it the original valve cover.....

I'll have to see what I can find on the block when I pull it.


Edit....just found "4K1" inside the rocker valley on the head. If that means squat....doesn't to me. Lol

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Ok, bottom of the head has "E5TE"...meaning this head is off a 85 model?


Block casting...
D8VE-6015-A8A

D8VE I know is right, as is the 6....after that I may be off a little.


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1978 for the block the D is 1970 the next number 8 is the year in the 70's. So 1978. If you can find some D0ve heads (most guys call them dove heads ) those are a favorite for budget builds. Never mind I'm talking 460 stuff now.

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To figure out the size carb you need it's. (Cubic inches X max rpm X volumetric efficiency )÷3456
And for volumetric efficiency a typical stock naturally aspirated engine is between 70-75% efficient (.7 to. 75) but a well built one is around 85% efficient. And an all out race motor is about 95% efficient.
I hope this helps.
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powerstroked08 said:

1978 for the block the D is 1970 the next number 8 is the year in the 70's. So 1978. If you can find some D0ve heads (most guys call them dove heads ) those are a favorite for budget builds. Never mind I'm talking 460 stuff now.

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A little searching with el googleo comes up with a 1978 Lincoln Continental block (D8 is 78 like you mentioned, the V is for Lincoln). As for the head, it's a friggen 85 head.


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6speedsd said:

A little searching with el googleo comes up with a 1978 Lincoln Continental block (D8 is 78 like you mentioned, the V is for Lincoln). As for the head, it's a friggen 85 head.


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Ghaaaaaa smog motor!!!! Check with the ghetto looking wrecking yards they usually have the old 60s an early 70s heads on a shelf. Or check jegs an summit for a new set of better flowing heads.

LOL, yeah it's time to do some looking. The builder I wanted to use said he couldn't get to mine until at least May. Seriously considering running a hone down that cylinder and seeing how it looks.


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Do it. Can't make it worse.

Vader's Fury said:

Do it. Can't make it worse.

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I agree 100%. If it'll clean up, I'll slap a new piston in it, do new rings on all 8, new rod/main bearings, maybe a new oil pump, and slap it back together. IF I can find another head.

Anybody have some old 302 heads laying around they'd like to part ways with?


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Craigslist is a good place to look.

Yeah I've been keeping my eye out there. That's where I found the truck.


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6speedsd said:

Yeah I've been keeping my eye out there. That's where I found the truck.


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I was browsing the Atlanta craigslist yesterday and there were a ton of 302 parts and complete engines/motors. But I don't want to get in that discussion again

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