Mild 7.3 build suggestions

I wouldn't right off a set of our 200/80's. We have had great reports from customers with these. You can easily maintain high icp #'s with your stock hoop.

Give David a call at the shop. We may have some ready to go. He may even feel generous and make you a deal:thumbsup:

Not to steal the tread. Tim are you starting to lean away from your 175/80's over to the 200/80's hybrids. I would have thought that 175's would get better fuel mileage.

I personally prefer an A code over any comparable sized hybrid. Our 200/80's make marginally more hp on the dyno, but with a factory hpop some customers report the ability to hold 3100+ Icp.

The only reports we have with any negative feedback from our 175/80's are people that use certain brands of tuning. Hazing at cold idle. Low icp numbers, excessive smoke, high egts, ect. With a switch in tuning brands they report back extremely happy. Full benefits for 175/80's typically require a hoop upgrade.

Every set we offer has a niche in the market somewhere.

Hmm! My 200/80s haze at cold idle...cold being 60 degrees.

Does it go away when EOT reaches normal op temps?

Air temp doesn't have as much to do with it as EOT, or should I say EOT tables.

Take this to pm please.

Do what you want but the weak points are going to be the rods if they are PMR if not then the tranny. IMO compared to stock even a modest gain is night and day. If its really for your wife I would just have the tuner keep the fueling light down load and build it with rpms and keep the tq as low as possible. In other words have the tq curve look more like that of a gas motor where it has a nice gradual curve up. TQ=CP and CP takes out the rods and TQ takes out the tranny.

You can run just about any size nozzle you want and just about any size turbo as long as you can get it to light but the control for keeping the thing together is in the tuning. There is no reason you have to max out the capabilities of the performance parts you are putting on. Look at how much power IH left on the table with the stock turbo and injectors.

I do think a good valve body from JW or whom ever will help. But the tuning can be had to left off a bit for the shifts and help keep that second gear alive etc.
I prefer Matts tuning but there are a few good choices.

Springs and Push Rods will help as if you are going to be spinning up the RPMS and have more boost and BP.

IF your not an idiot about it and do not keep your foot into on the shifts you can keep your tranny /TC alive but it only takes a few floorboard holds thru the gears to start having issues.

Sure is nice to see you posting again TARM. Good advice there

Thanks Tarm for your advice. Getting ready to replace cups as they started leaking after the injectors were removed for 6 months...

Do you think the cups going bad had something to do with having no injectors in there ? OR maybe they let go upon the removal?

Reason I ask is I have had my injectors out about that long. About to put a bunch of upgrades on. Changing HPOP from Stealth to Dual terminator changing the T4 mount from some old badly welded POS to Irate. Relcating batteries into the spare tire nook in the rear. Moving fuel surge tank and Dail to the engine compartment where the bats were. Leaving the small low psi lift pump on the frame by the tank.

No issues before pulling injectors. The other day when I went to pull engine I noticed the degas bottle was empty. I think having the injectors out had something to do with it. I think the sealing compound failed.

I knew a number of people that use to clear the oil out of the cylinders after pulling the injectors by throwing a cloth and then the VC back over the head and then cranked the engine for a full cycle.

Dave @ swamps always warned against doing it saying it could cause damage. My thought was the pressure on the back side of the now unsupported cups could possibly dislodge them. He never went into what type of damage and I never asked. But that was all I could think of. If you put a few bolts back in the VC and cranked it being sure the harness etc was out of the way I could not think of what else could be damaged from it.

I've always blown the oil out with the starter, but I do it with the injectors re-installed and the GPs out.

The Brad said:

I've always blown the oil out with the starter, but I do it with the injectors re-installed and the GPs out.

Click to expand...

That would likely be the safest way to do it.

Even though I have done it many times I still am always paraniod that I got all or enough the oil out of the piston dish with just the suction tube. I think I would feel better if I did that and then followed up with pulling the GPs and cranking it over.

This last time I tried to do it the way Dave states to do it pulling the oil plugs in the heads to bleed out most of the oil in the rails but a few o those allen heads just stripped. Its why I HATE allen key design. If I could find a replacment for those allen head oring screws with a torx I would be very happy.

I was only able to pull one without starting to strip so I ended up dumping much more oil into that back cylinder. No different than any other time I had just hoped I could have done it the "recommended" way.

I have luck with putting the Allen socket in place and then a couple of light taps with the ratchet before removing those plugs, but I also have a couple of spares on hand.

I cranked mine over by hand a few times with the injectors out, and old glow plugs in first and soak up what comes out. The install injectors, crank by hand with glow plugs out and then crank with starter. Just how I've done it the couple times I have. Probably the slowest way, but it made me feel good about it .

A small 1/4" sharp chisel and a short 3lb hammer on the edge of the little 1/8 allen plugs has worked everytime for me when the allen part is stripped. Ford sells them, and most dealers should stock them.

I agree only crank with injectors in and GP's out.

I think I will stock up on a few then. I sure wish I had just tapped them out with a chisel. I was just not sure is the dealer would have them in stock. It cost me a couple hours to go to the dealer. Do any of you have a part number I could order online? I can look it up I guess if its not handy. Are they call head oil plugs? I figure it will be listed on the schematic on the ford sites when I go look.

I'd imagine they're called oil rail plugs, been a while since I've replaced any though. Maybe google will tell you