Help...Manifold to Up-Pipe Bolts Siezed.

ToMang07 · Apr 22, 2015

So I had recently developed a leak in the up pipes behind the collector. Big surprise, right?

Well, a 6-point socket was spinning on the collector bolts (probably from rust) so I decided to cut the manifold to up pipe bolts. Got the up pipes off/out. Well after and MAP gas torch, I can't punch ANY of the bolts out.

As anyone who has done this can attest there is little to no room to get to the bolts. (I have the down pipe removed.)

I need ideas. At this point I'll try a few more doses of hot wrench and PB Blaster, but if I have to do the manifolds I'll just pull the engine, since chances are there will be at least one stuck bolt there, too. I really don't want to go that, but eventually I'll need to install my new oil pan anyway.

OhioPipeliner · Apr 22, 2015

Able to get a oxy/act set up in there? Going to take some coxing to get them out, on a few sets ive used a air hammer to do it.

ToMang07 · Apr 22, 2015

OhioPipeliner said:
Able to get a oxy/act set up in there? Going to take some coxing to get them out, on a few sets ive used a air hammer to do it.

I have never welded nor own any equipment to do so. I guess I can ask my neighbor if he is willing, but he's an older gentleman...probably pushing 70, not sure he wants to be crawling around on the ground, let alone moving all his equipment. :fustrate:

co04cobra · Apr 22, 2015

If you think there is any other bolts stuck, or want/need to do other work, you'll be time ahead to just pull it.

Really the only other option is to torch them out, unless you are very good with a drill. As you already know there is not much room for that.

ToMang07 · Apr 22, 2015

co04cobra said:
If you think there is any other bolts stuck, or want/need to do other work, you'll be time ahead to just pull it.

Really the only other option is to torch them out, unless you are very good with a drill. As you already know there is not much room for that.

I'm leaning that way. I have another year or 2 before the oil pan (likely) rots through. I'd prefer NOT to do it unless I have to, but at this point, IF I can get a real torch/welder in there, that's my only option other than having it towed to/from an exhaust shop. :fustrate:

ja_cain · Apr 22, 2015

I have removed broken bolts by first welding a washer with a smaller id than the od of the bolt to the bolt. Then you weld a nut to the washer which allows you to put a wrench on it and break it loose. The heat alone of welding all that will usually make it easy to break it loose. Probably not enough room in there to do all of that though. Sorry if this was not helpful and good luck. Probably best to just remove the motor then do what I said.

Arisley · Apr 22, 2015

ToMang07 said:
I have never welded nor own any equipment to do so. I guess I can ask my neighbor if he is willing, but he's an older gentleman...probably pushing 70, not sure he wants to be crawling around on the ground, let alone moving all his equipment. :fustrate:

ja_cain said:
I have removed broken bolts by first welding a washer with a smaller id than the od of the bolt to the bolt. Then you weld a nut to the washer which allows you to put a wrench on it and break it loose. The heat alone of welding all that will usually make it easy to break it loose. Probably not enough room in there to do all of that though. Sorry if this was not helpful and good luck. Probably best to just remove the motor then do what I said.

Not a real option.

If the huts were turning with a ratchet, they are loose and will punch out. Soak with PB Blaster or your choice of lubricant. Stick a short punch on there (small stock held with a vice grip), and hammer on it. It will give up and allow you to win.

ja_cain · Apr 22, 2015

Arisley said:
Not a real option.

If the huts were turning with a ratchet, they are loose and will punch out. Soak with PB Blaster or your choice of lubricant. Stick a short punch on there (small stock held with a vice grip), and hammer on it. It will give up and allow you to win.

Sound like a good idea. I guess I'm not familiar with how the up pipes are bolted to the manifolds. Are they just a bolt with a nut on the other side? If that's the case, then they should pop right out with enough pounding like you said.

ToMang07 · Apr 23, 2015

Arisley said:

Not a real option.

If the huts were turning with a ratchet, they are loose and will punch out. Soak with PB Blaster or your choice of lubricant. Stick a short punch on there (small stock held with a vice grip), and hammer on it. It will give up and allow you to win.

Click to expand...

I tried that, took a big azz nail, cut it and used vice grips to hold it....pounded the **** out of it. Hasn't budged a hair. I'll try again tomorrow, but I'm not holding my breath. Gonna soak it with PB Blaster again tonight when I get home from work.

ja_cain said:

Sound like a good idea. I guess I'm not familiar with how the up pipes are bolted to the manifolds. Are they just a bolt with a nut on the other side? If that's the case, then they should pop right out with enough pounding like you said.

Click to expand...

You'd think so, right?

buschpoweredstroker · Apr 23, 2015

No real trick to it, soak it, heat it, beat it until you give up or they come out. If you need to do the pan at some point anyway you might as well yank the motor and do manifold gaskets and oil cooler gaskets and seals at the same time. You might want to invest in and learn to use an oxy/acetilyn torch or you probably won't get too far on the manifolds, that first bolt that you snap off in the head is gonna make your heart sink if you don't know how to get it out. You can pull the tranny and get yourself some more room also.

psduser1 · Apr 23, 2015

You can pull the manifolds with the engine in the truck, but it's a b!tch if you don't have oxy-acetylene, tom. If you need gaskets, just pull the engine, do it all at once! I've done all that work both in and out of the truck, and for the aggravation, it's worth pulling it!

ToMang07 · Apr 23, 2015

psduser1 said:
You can pull the manifolds with the engine in the truck, but it's a b!tch if you don't have oxy-acetylene, tom. If you need gaskets, just pull the engine, do it all at once! I've done all that work both in and out of the truck, and for the aggravation, it's worth pulling it!

Yeah, I'm leaning more and more towards pulling it. Gonna try a couple more things tomorrow, but if I can't get them out...probably going to pull the engine this weekend. I'm sure the manifold bolts are about as bad as the up-pipe bolts were, so no way am I attempting to do that with the engine in the truck.

pullandpray · Apr 23, 2015

I used a sawsall on mine worked good

redneck1 · Apr 24, 2015

Drive the truck around everyday for about a week. Spraying every bolt you want to take out every day. Get some good mechanics gloves and work them after driving the last day. That's what worked the best for me. Just my experience. Also why I got scars from working with mine, lol. Anti seize any bolts going back in!

ToMang07 · Apr 24, 2015

redneck1 · Apr 24, 2015

You ain't messin' around!

lincolnlocker · Apr 25, 2015

redneck1 said:
You ain't messin' around!

hell, thats only 15 min worth of work.

live life full throttle

TyCorr · Apr 25, 2015

Yea. Im ready to pull the motor in hour half...

Just cut the manifold bolts off behind the manifold. I used a pipe wrench to get them started. Then if they got loose enough turn em out with adjustables or lock a vise grip on the nub and finish.

The one center hole is tight and an alignment tool. You will probably have to drill it out. Dont bother beating it.

Zaairman · Apr 25, 2015

Heat (lots of it) and an air hammer. You've already got the front part of the truck off, you're only a few bolts away from pulling the whole thing out, might as well and do the oil pan while you are at it. The up pipe bolts are much easier with the motor out and you are finding out why.