6.4 headstud install, cab on

bigrpowr · Oct 1, 2014

08Monster said:
If you would talk me through the install if I have a question or two, I'd buy your H-13s. Customer service alone is worth the price.

haha man .. ill see if I can find you my instructions. they are VERY thorough. im sure my unlimited talk plan would implode on this customer call LOL

08Monster · Oct 1, 2014

Haha alright, let me know what you come up with, I'm just really nervous about doing this. It's my first real diesel work. You can PM me a price on them, I'll for sure buy from you

Stroked777 · Oct 1, 2014

Just to make a you feel a little better, I remember reading the crack block thread and it seemed they were more likely to crack when you re use the studs and torque them more. Now that we know that's a possible reason, there has been less cracks, between lowering the torque value and some people will buy new studs so they don't have to raise the torque value. Right now all my studs are torqued to 275#, and no issues from 75k mi to 113k at now. If I was to have my heads off again I would buy new studs

powerstroked08 · Oct 1, 2014

If i ever do the studs again I'll be don't the his from Mike. At the time they weren't out.

sootie · Oct 1, 2014

dsberman94 said:
It'd really luck whether yours will cracked or not. We did them all to 250 on a truck I helped with and didn't have an issue while he still had the truck. There are guys on here that have cracked two blocks in that spot just torquing to spec and are still running a third cracked block.

that truck you guys ***ked up is hardly an example. did it even get 10k on it after the rebuild? who are you speaking of on here that has cracked two blocks and running a third cracked block please? Webb06 cracked two because his torque wrench was out of whack and as far as i know his current block is fine.

dsberman94 said:
Lower final torque on just those two studs results in less stress on the block and less of a chance of cracking. However if you think about it, you're actually warping the head by not applying the same amount of pressure on those two studs. Kind of a uneasy feeling

dont waste your head thinking about it-you are not warping the head. nothing uneasy about it.

To the OP-doing head studs cab on has been successful for many including myself, JDgleason and others on here. it is not the recommended way (of course) but it could work. Pay close attention to the adjusted torque values for the weak holes as it is pretty simple to crack a block-i have done that also.

08Monster · Oct 1, 2014

What torque do you recommend for the weak spots and all than all the rest with H-13s?

TXAG07 · Oct 1, 2014

I used the Extreme Studs from Mike, which I assume are the what you guys are referring to as the H-13. I believe the final torque on the instructions were 220lbs. Since many had recommended lower values overall and around the weak areas, I believe I did a 10% reduction overall, and 20% in the weak areas since others had done the same with the ARPs. I have it written down at home and can look later.
Overall, it is not a fun job at all. It probably took me 30 hours by myself in two days. I'm not a great wrencher, but I'm no idiot either. Main issue are space to work and to apply force. I'm a fairly strong guy, and even with a cheater you just can't get in a great position to break things loose/apply final torques. The back ones suck too because of space and need to jack up trans/motor. There is a sweet spot for the amount to jack it up.
Make sure you have every extension, flex, and socket avail. If you can get a flex head breaker bar that will help a lot too.
Here are resources I used, some already posted. Good luck
Believe this is Mike's:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...0-driveway-head-stud-install-101-dummies.html
And the other from Powerstroked08
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...on/273525-head-stud-manifold-install-cab.html
thread with info
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31996

AllGo'N'Show · Oct 1, 2014

^^ Great link and info to share, thanks.

Question for the guys, does the pass side of the block not have the same lack of material on those two holes? Driver side only? Thanks!

TXAG07 · Oct 1, 2014

AllGo'N'Show said:
^^ Great link and info to share, thanks.

Question for the guys, does the pass side of the block not have the same lack of material on those two holes? Driver side only? Thanks!

both sides same

thumbo88 · Nov 5, 2014

so im going to be doing this soon sounds like h-13s are the way to go doing a cab on anyone know of any problems i might run into other than workspace?

B585Ford · Nov 5, 2014

powerstroked08 said:
Well there is lower torque but the bolt streches less so there is roughly the same "stress" on the block since its streching the bolt less but still clamping the same if not more.

...never mind....didn't realize this topic was already covered before I posted.

bigrpowr · Nov 5, 2014

B585Ford said:
...never mind....didn't realize this topic was already covered before I posted.

its really hard to say, but I have yet , after 100+ sets of 6.4 studs sold, to have a cracked block. but I will say my arp 625's broke the block on Godzilla. makes it so much funner now that the motor has been sold. FML

powerstroked08 · Nov 5, 2014

bigrpowr said:
its really hard to say, but I have yet , after 100+ sets of 6.4 studs sold, to have a cracked block. but I will say my arp 625's broke the block on Godzilla. makes it so much funner now that the motor has been sold. FML

I know if/when I ever get another set of studs, they will be some h13's. They sound very promising!

B585Ford · Nov 5, 2014

bigrpowr said:
its really hard to say, but I have yet , after 100+ sets of 6.4 studs sold, to have a cracked block. but I will say my arp 625's broke the block on Godzilla. makes it so much funner now that the motor has been sold. FML

That's about as real world as they get (in terms of results). I am sure you don't remember my opinion on this matter, but this topic has been discussed multiple times I always thought the H13s had the potential to be less prone to cracking a block because the would require less clamping force to keep the heads from leaking because they are less prone to stretching. The question to me was how much clamping force are they applying to the block....that was back when they were new and you only had sold a few sets. I didn't realize you had sold that many of them now and haven't had a cracked block. Based on your results, it sure sounds like they must not put as much clamping force to get the same results.....good to know since someday I will be pulling the heads again.

bigrpowr · Nov 5, 2014

B585Ford said:
That's about as real world as they get (in terms of results). I am sure you don't remember my opinion on this matter, but this topic has been discussed multiple times I always thought the H13s had the potential to be less prone to cracking a block because the would require less clamping force to keep the heads from leaking because they are less prone to stretching. The question to me was how much clamping force are they applying to the block....that was back when they were new and you only had sold a few sets. I didn't realize you had sold that many of them now and haven't had a cracked block. Based on your results, it sure sounds like they must not put as much clamping force to get the same results.....good to know since someday I will be pulling the heads again.

they are rated at 240,000psi clamp at 220-230 ft/lbs . I have been selling ALOT to shops , they have moved over to them due to non-issue after install . I have had a set of 6.0 studs where one stud was longer than the rest , and a set of 24v studs that didn't seem true (straight), I addressed extreme on the quality control , and they say they have since addressed that . h-13 is a harder material with less stretch than h-11 . in the beginning I believed that h-11 was a superior material due to not being QUITE as hard , but after so many sets sold and no issues, none with the 6.0 either, I would be lying if I didn't believe they are very well worth the extra $150 over ARP 2000 at this point.