Supercharged 7.3

Lol... I was in your place 7-8 years ago. I got to where I could reassemble an injector in a few minutes but that did not build me a good set of injectors. Some parts can be replaced, but when you don't know a good oil side from a bad one, and how those parts interrelate to good performance, its an issue-- I don't doubt that you have some capability, but ya don't learn this stuff from the interwebs. The fact that shops are charging $500 to do this should be telling you something about what 'could' be required..

Have you ever talked to Geoff Thomas (GTS motorsports)? He's run himself off most forums, but is a very knowledgeable heui dude in your area.

Can someone please explain to me how a HEUI injector can hang hang open resulting in a runaway...

superpsd said:

LOL

No the 6.2 ran had a quick run away burst while driving no big deal injection pump went south I merely disposed of said truck It was a pos farm truck anyways. The Detroit was my fault but I acted quick and got it shut down. Merely stating that if my engine runs away I'm not going to be just running for the hills. As long as you install all the little parts of the injector back where they came from probably not going to have any kind of massive issue like that. Not to mention if one injector hung open I doubt it's going to run away until it comes apart as simply key off will shut down the power to the solenoids. You think it's going to runaway as fuel flows out the tip at 60 psi on one cylinder? Even if some massive failure I wouldn't just be standing there scratching my head.

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I never assumed the motors didn't run. There's more than one cause for a run away, but you're right just turn the key off... It solves everything! :doh:

littleredstroker said:

Can someone please explain to me how a HEUI injector can hang hang open resulting in a runaway...

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I hear ya, i just wasn't going to bother opening that can

superpsd said:

You guys are acting like pulling apart an heui injector is rocket science. LOL

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It is not hard at all to get one apart, no real accomplishment there. But setting one up to do what you want and matching 8 together, that sir is another story. And by what I have seen over the years from some of these "top" shops is sad. If only people could see what their injectors really do and how corners were cut in the name of profit margins. :lame:

I can save you a but load of time and money, put the BI's on the shelf and let them collect dust. A stock BI will flow less then even some crappy 230 hybrids from these companies. And require even more PW than their pathetic versions they serve up.

And the A code, B code, hybrid argument is funning. Not one person that has as much flow bench time as myself has come in and made an accurate statement. But you guys serve up the Kool-Aid and the rest keep drinking so keep it pouring and we will keep making advancements.

So much bad information being thrown around its no fault of yours for what you wind up running/building.

I have not read this whole thread, but worrying about more fuel when you have an induction system that bypasses a blower because its a restriction to your factory turbo is hilarious. Sure you have more air faster than factory, but on the top end its just like every other factory turbo obs truck around.

The BI injectors were just going to be used for a short while. Something to play and learn with. Even at 180cc-200cc that's double the capacity of the stock AAs. I'm only 500 in so far on injectors. Will need nozzles and O rings. So hopefully less than 1200-1300 ish and still have my AA codes to have built latter.

Your correct up top airflow is limited to the stock turbo but will not be for long. I am going to build a custom hot side to hang a single S4XX turbo off the passenger side bank. The blower is only currently spun at half of its rated speed and is only needed to help low end performance. You did bring up one good point the blower is not a restriction and can not be a restriction. This is why a couple of guys running small whipples feeding compounds can still achieve 80+ psi.

Right now am just TIG shopping. Planning on a suitcase welder for now and spend more on a larger more capable unit down the road. I am leaning towards ESABs miniarc suitcase welder.

Those EASB machines don't look too shabby for the money. I would definitly get one of those over an Everlast or Eastwood any day. The HTP welders are nice and well reviewed too but they don't offer one that is equivalent to the EASB model you are looking at. If I was buying machines for home shop I would buy an HTP Invertig 221 for SS and thinner Al stuff and an XMT 304 cc/cv with a spool gun and regular gun for thicker aluminum and thick steal. You can pick those XMT 304 up pretty cheep on CL usually with a mig gun and sometimes a spool gun too. Worth looking into. They will do DC tig with lift start (need HF Module), foot pedal (I think) and offer a gas solenoid too so you don't have to use torches with gas valves. Awesome machine in my opinion with enough balls to weld fairly thick stuff. Good luck finding the right machine.

The ESAB is an Italian made unit which I have read is just a step above the chinnesse stuff. Some people seem to have luck with the China made Everlast and TA but I see a lot of them broken on eBay and CL. I will dump more funds on a higher end unit latter but it would be nice to have a portable tig as well. I wish there was a pedal option for the ESAB. The Miller Maxstar can be hooked with a pedal but the price is as much as a larger more capable unit.

superpsd said:

The ESAB is an Italian made unit which I have read is just a step above the chinnesse stuff. Some people seem to have luck with the China made Everlast and TA but I see a lot of them broken on eBay and CL. I will dump more funds on a higher end unit latter but it would be nice to have a portable tig as well. I wish there was a pedal option for the ESAB. The Miller Maxstar can be hooked with a pedal but the price is as much as a larger more capable unit.

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Very simple, no frills setup. I have never welded without a foot pedal. I don't think I would like it if I was welding a lot of stainless steel. Mild steel would be OK and more forgiving. Anyway, I see Maxstars on CL all the time too. Might be something to check out if you don't mind buying used. Just found a Miller multimatic 200 on CL with mig gun, tig torch, foot pedal and stinger for 1600 and a Maxstar 200dx for 900.

Yeah I'm holding out on what used units come up. I just missed a 180 syncrowave for 700 with all the gear included. That one went quick. I have never welder with out a pedal either.

Wait, did you just say you were gonna "hang a s4xx off the passenger side"? I hope you're not saying you're just gonna feed it from the passenger manifold....

The master Himself


Heui extrude honing equipment...

kyle43335 said:

The master Himself

Heui extrude honing equipment...

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Hahaha

Superpsd, I'm glad you can handle all the criticism without getting super defensive. I have enjoyed your thread so far and look forward to wherever this project ends up.

idshred said:

Superpsd, I'm glad you can handle all the criticism without getting super defensive. I have enjoyed your thread so far and look forward to wherever this project ends up.

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I was thinking the exact same thing. Dude can definitely take some criticism. I can be a little hard headed sometimes too, so I can kind of relate.

2000wa250 said:

Wait, did you just say you were gonna "hang a s4xx off the passenger side"? I hope you're not saying you're just gonna feed it from the passenger manifold....

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Not just off of one side. I will either modify the cast iron manifolds or custom headers. I have modified iron manifolds a few times to hang a turbo or turbos. As for a TIG I have been still shopping around but leaning to go with a ESAB caddy tig with all the goodies like pulse options AC/DC and water cooled torch.

superpsd said:

Not just off of one side. I will either modify the cast iron manifolds or custom headers. I have modified iron manifolds a few times to hang a turbo or turbos. As for a TIG I have been still shopping around but leaning to go with a ESAB caddy tig with all the goodies like pulse options AC/DC and water cooled torch.

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That caddy tig doesn't look too shabby. I looked at it before I bought my Dynasty 200 at work. What does the water cooled setup go for?

Looks like 3700 plus tax shipping etc...I don't really need a water cooled setup it just is a huge plus. I am still shopping around and doing research. Does look like a good warranty. I don't mind spending coin on a welder I hope to use for years to come. The only other welder I have ever bought is my little 110 Lincoln mig that I've had for about 13 years or so.

As for my blower project I have been dealing with belt slip when cold thru the winter. The gatorbacks are known to stretch as they are a soft compound. The slipping got worse this morning and now it is eating the belt. I have a gatorback replacement on the way but that will now go in the back up belts pile as I ordered a gates fleet runner HD belt aka "green belt". Should be on in a couple of hours. Hope this cures all as it is the belt most high boost supercharger cars are running to eliminate slip.

go to a cog belt the sound is nice or drop an 671 on it and hang it out the hood

Well the green belt = success. Grips under any rpm or condition. Actually has 2psi at idle now. Pressure is stable and blower sounds steady as if gear driven.
The guy who builds the Cummins setups with the whipple has his poking out thru the hood and a bird catcher on top. I drive my truck in all weather so I won't be doing that. Not to mention the thiefs around here. I would go into the supermarket to come out and find my blower missing.