So hard to choose what turbo setup I want

248superduty

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So I'm getting a bigger turbo. Truck does very minimal towing. And less then 10k lbs. Anyways I'm either going with a barder stage 2 or CED up pipes and a s362 fmw with .83 divided t4 housing. What would be more fun for a street truck? Both are right about $1700 shipped to the house. Mods in sig.
 

Jeremy @ No Limit

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I don't really think you can go wrong with either turbo. I had a Barder Stage 3 and recently switch to Irate T4 pipes/S366. I loved the Barder but have since fell in love with the nonvgt. Plus i'm going with compounds so a nonvgt made more sense
 

swinky

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I'm a vgt hater so I'll say 362 all day. Sounds better, looks better and when you quit towing with it you can just slap on a s371 and have enough air for 750hp.

Barder makes a hell of a turbo though you really can't go wrong either way.
 

william_ace

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I would go vgt personally, but like everyone else has said, you probably can't go wrong either way.
 

matt92idi

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Id go for a s362. I just did the CED kit and a 62 and love it but i did lift the whole cab to put it on. I couldn't imagine putting a non vgt on with the cab on with the headache of up pipes. So with that said i would say it comes down to this Are your going to do the work yourself?
If you are, Do you have access to a lift?
If you have both of these id say non vgt is the way to go not to mention it becomes so easy to step up for more air later. If you want the easier route stage 2 it is.
 

swinky

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It's not bad at all. Not sure what the big deal is. I did up pipes, injectors, s366 and regulated return in a weekend in my parking lot with a 3 drawer craftsman toolbox.
 

TBagAMouseTrap

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It's not all that difficult to swap the pipes, but it is more involved to install. You also have a greater chance for exhaust/boost leaks and the issues that arise with that. Your average 3 drawer toolbox mechanic doesn't know the center section of a turbo rotates, which could cause a lot of time and aggravation. If you ever go to pulls you have a better chance of being bumped into higher class where you probably won't be competitive with a s362 compared to a stock appearing Barder. Also If you ever need work done by a shop there's less likely of a chance of being charged extra for aftermarket modifications like you would with an engine mounted pto and such.
 

scparrish

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I should have been more clea. if the truck is running the correct gear ratio for 37s then I would vote non vgt. if it is running factory gears for factory sized tires go vgt.
 

248superduty

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Why would the gears make a difference? Truck runs 1800 rpm's at 70. I love it. Mpg's are great. And yes works getting done by me. I am a heavy equipment mech so I'm not too worried. Only thing I from what I understand is I'll need a different drain and feed tube for the oil on the turbo if I go non vgt. And tune either way. Btw yall are really swaying me to non vgt. If I go non vgt I'm also going to do rrk.
 

matt92idi

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It's not bad at all. Not sure what the big deal is. I did up pipes, injectors, s366 and regulated return in a weekend in my parking lot with a 3 drawer craftsman toolbox.

none of my up pipe bolts wanted to come out without breaking or stripping so i just cut them but i would be nervous about doing that with the cab on. Never said it was a big deal it just makes it easier. All of it is something to consider when doing a project, it comes down to how much work they want to put into it.

Why would the gears make a difference? Truck runs 1800 rpm's at 70. I love it. Mpg's are great. And yes works getting done by me. I am a heavy equipment mech so I'm not too worried. Only thing I from what I understand is I'll need a different drain and feed tube for the oil on the turbo if I go non vgt. And tune either way. Btw yall are really swaying me to non vgt. If I go non vgt I'm also going to do rrk.

Both the oil and drain tube with come with matts kit. The only down side to the non vgt is not being able to feel the low end power when rolling into it hard like you do with a vgt, but other than that its great.
 

TBagAMouseTrap

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none of my up pipe bolts wanted to come out without breaking or stripping so i just cut them but i would be nervous about doing that with the cab on.

I usually just hit them with a torch when the cabs still on.

And tune either way. Btw yall are really swaying me to non vgt. If I go non vgt I'm also going to do rrk.

Many people say you will need a few try's to really dial in a non vgt tune, not to discourage you. I'd recommend a regulated return (assuming that's what you mean by rrk) with either turbo. I noticed when installing egr deletes with exhaust pipes if I just snug a little less than finger tight the union in the up pipe first, then tighten the turbo, manifolds and then tighten the union last I have far fewer exhaust leaks which may help with CED's pipes. Also again the turbo covers rotate as needed again.
 

swinky

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I usually just hit them with a torch when the cabs still on.



Many people say you will need a few try's to really dial in a non vgt tune, not to discourage you. I'd recommend a regulated return (assuming that's what you mean by rrk) with either turbo. I noticed when installing egr deletes with exhaust pipes if I just snug a little less than finger tight the union in the up pipe first, then tighten the turbo, manifolds and then tighten the union last I have far fewer exhaust leaks which may help with CED's pipes. Also again the turbo covers rotate as needed again.
X2 be sure to tighten everything in the right order.
 

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