Front axle shaft help!!!!

Changing my ball joints and got it then installed. I am stumped on the end of the shaft. Any ideas to get this seal to sit flush

It doesn't need to. As long as the inner metal is flat against the flat spot on the shaft you're good to go.

Thank you! Any trick on getting the shaft back in?

Anyone? I'm in a real bind. Trying to get the truck rolling by tonight

CoastalF350 said:

Anyone? I'm in a real bind. Trying to get the truck rolling by tonight

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Back in the axle? Should slide right in, might have to hit the end with like a block of wood and a hammer.

Got it in... Now the hub...

CoastalF350 said:

Got it in... Now the hub...View attachment 33035

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Reach around back to the u joint and spin the axle while pushing in on the lock out. It should slide right in once all the splines are lined up right.

I keep spinning and it can't seem to line up.

CoastalF350 said:

I keep spinning and it can't seem to line up.

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Work the lock out up and down. It should eventually just fall in to place.

So install it not locked?

CoastalF350 said:

So install it not locked?

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Yep

I have everything installed... Now the mutha freaking steering wheel wont return back to center and it wonders everywhere...

Are the tie rods tight? I'm sure it needs aligned after new ball joints too

I tourqed the tie rods to specks on the end and measured my Old rod to get the right measurement

You need to measure tiers center of joint to center of joint.

I don't comprehend what you are saying, sorry.

CoastalF350 said:

Changing my ball joints and got it then installed. I am stumped on the end of the shaft. Any ideas to get this seal to sit flushView attachment 33032View attachment 33033

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You need OTC 6695 or 6697 or 6698 to correctly install those seals.

CoastalF350 said:

I don't comprehend what you are saying, sorry.

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Sorry, long day yesterday. Measure from center of the tierod end to center of tierod end. When you change the end, remeasure, and make the number the same. Should be able to get them within a sixteenth, makes it drivable to get an alignment.
Not all ends are the same, especially replacement ends. If you measure the total length, you'll generally end up much closer. Using the center of the grease zero is fairly close.

At this point, might as well drive it to a shop for an alignment, lol.
And, as gary pointed out, the seal tool makes life a lot easier to set the proper depth on the seal. $40, I think I paid. Worth it.