My new to me tow rig: 2002 F350 Dually

I got this type of valve spring compressor. Think it was cheaper, but it was an otc. I did mine in chassis.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012...compressor&dpPl=1&dpID=31O8DG3ULJL&ref=plSrch

Get the special Ford 7.3 goop to seal up the dipstick tube. I can get the p/n in the morning.

I manually cranked it over with the glowplugs out and injectors in. Then I cranked with the starter, same situation. Then install glow plugs and continue to reassemble. There are other ways. But this has worked for me three times. On three different trucks.

Banjo bolts are readily available, but not really required.
For the dipstick tube, usually new orings are enough, but ford gray death is added peace of mind.

I did a write up PSN on how to do the valve spring swap. But since then, Photobucket when paid. When I get home, I'll upload the photos.

You don't need compressed air to hold the valve up. Rotate the motor over until the piston is at the top. Leave the GPs out.

http://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo...performance/291513-how-r-r-valve-springs.html

Billy T.
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Since the subject on how to replace valve springs comes up often, here is a guide.

The pics were taken with the motor on a stand which makes it easy on your stomach and ribs. It can be done while the motor is in the truck.

Remove whatever you have to to get the valve covers off.

Either remove the glow plugs or injectors to reduce resistance/compression in motor. The injectors do NOT have to be removed. I have mine removed because I sent them in to be flow checked and gone through.

Use a 24mm socket on the balancer bolt to bring the cylinder to TDC that you are going to working on. I stuck a piece of wire in the glow plug hole. Rotate the motor until the wire reaches its highest point. You want the piston to be at the top of the cylinder so you don't drop the valve. Remove rocker and attach spring compressor. I used the Rotunda/OTC tool.

Turn the tool until you compress the spring enough to free up the keepers. I used a small magnetic to grab the keepers

The spring is removed and what you see is the valve seal.

Use a pair of pliers to grab onto to the seal and remove it. The seal comes off easy. Install the spring height micrometer to get your spring height. Drop the micrometer on, then put the factory retainer and keepers back on. Turn the micrometer until snug. I was shooting for an installed height of 1.780" which gives me 125lbs spring pressure. You have to do some math here. The base of the replacement Fel-Pro valve seal is 0.040". The height I was going for was 1.820 without the seal. I got a measurement of 1.850. So I need to install a .030 shim. Then with the seal installed, it'll be 1.780. Easy math.

Once you place the shim down, remeasure to make sure everything is alright. Once everything checks out, drop the seal on. I used my Seal Setter tool so I don't tear the seal going back on.

Then place the spring on the head and crank down on the tool to compress the spring and place the keepers on.

I replaced the factory pushrods with Smith Bros.



Part numbers:
Springs: Comp 910-16 ( CCA-910-16 Summit Racing)
Pushrods: Smith Bros (NLTD)
Shims: Comp 4754 ( CCA-4754 Summit Racing) get 2 packs
Valve seals: Fel Pro (FEL-SS72893 Summit Racing)
Micrometer: Comp 4929 (CCA-4929 Summit Racing)
Spring Tool: OTC T941-6513-AH (E-Bay)

Torque specs
Rocker bolts: 20 ft lbs

Hope this helps

http://s178.photobucket.com/user/gnxtc2/library/7-3 Motor?sort=3&page=1

Billy T.
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In chassis, I had the most trouble with the drivers rear most spring. I had to modify my tool to fit, and remove the motor mounts and rock the engine up. I thought for sure the passenger side was going to be the issue, but found the opposite. Your results may vary.

My motor is out, thanks guys

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Quick question, should I be taking each new head stud to full torque before I go on to the next one or should I go just to Step One?

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No in steps. After all in and torqued, you need to torque cycle them. Back off a 1/4 turn then torque to spec. I repeat this 5x for each stud.

Billy T.
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Step one all the way around, then step two all the way around, etc.

gnxtc2 said:

No in steps. After all in and torqued, you need to torque cycle them. Back off a 1/4 turn then torque to spec. I repeat this 5x for each stud.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Click to expand...

Torque to final spec the first time or 45 ft lbs the first time?

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45 at first on all of them. Then to whatever the directions say next on all of them.

I got it , thanks

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Head studs are done, thanks for the help

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Time for Smokey burnouts and boosted launches !!!!!

mikeeg02 said:

Time for Smokey burnouts and boosted launches !!!!!

Click to expand...

needs a trans first... lol

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mikeeg02 said:

Time for Smokey burnouts and boosted launches !!!!!

Click to expand...

Lol, the headstuds are done, still have the rest of the list to do and put the motor back in the truck LOL

Any vendors here stock Isspro gauges? looking to repair/replace my egt gauge asap

I know on PSN.... member "Michael" (has a uHaul box truck as his avatar) is the Isspro Engineering Manager and has helped out a few guys with their gauges.

Billy T.
[email protected]

I don't know if he's still on here or not, but Joe Oram (csipsd) does.

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Better off getting him on Facebook.