cccj
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LOL, you realize it makes no difference, if you have a pivot point, right?
Traction bars
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LOL, you realize it makes no difference, if you have a pivot point, right?
lengelhardt
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I'll just weld some bars straight from the frame to the bottom of the axle in that case....
Logant_14
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Yes there is a pivot point but the axle isn't pushing up, it's pushing toward the front of the truck therefore a bar connect to the bottom of the axle whether or not there is a pivot point is gonna to stop the majority of any axle wrap. It's a twisting motion not one forcing the axle upwards.
sootie
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not true.
when under load, the axle is twisting, trying to point the pinion at the sky and because the driveshaft is rotating, is is also trying the "Steer" the axle.
having a single traction bar works fine because the one bar is keeping the axle from coming forward and the other one is keeping the axle from going backwards. the most movement you will get is the same slight angle change as you would by adding weight to the box of the truck.
cccj
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What do you mean by 'one bar is keeping the axle from coming forward and the other one...'? Which two bars are you refering to? Are you trying to say the driveshaft torque keeps the pinion from rotating?! LOL
Luke@MillerPerformance
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If the bars are mounted like this:
Axle wrap going forward is basically eliminated. Torque from the drive shaft is trying force the pinion up. If there's a solid bar stopping the axle from rotating, all the truck will do is squat back a little and take off.
So technically, axle wrap is still present, but the forces have been controlled enough to stop axle hop.
Axle wrap going forward is basically eliminated. Torque from the drive shaft is trying force the pinion up. If there's a solid bar stopping the axle from rotating, all the truck will do is squat back a little and take off.
So technically, axle wrap is still present, but the forces have been controlled enough to stop axle hop.
sootie
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umm no-that's not what i'm saying. I'm speaking about a traction bar on the left side of the vehicle and the one on the right?!?!?
If the bars are mounted like this:
Axle wrap going forward is basically eliminated. Torque from the drive shaft is trying force the pinion up. If there's a solid bar stopping the axle from rotating, all the truck will do is squat back a little and take off.
So technically, axle wrap is still present, but the forces have been controlled enough to stop axle hop.
^^^^he said it better than me
cccj
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If the bars are mounted like this:
Axle wrap going forward is basically eliminated. Torque from the drive shaft is trying force the pinion up. If there's a solid bar stopping the axle from rotating, all the truck will do is squat back a little and take off.
So technically, axle wrap is still present, but the forces have been controlled enough to stop axle hop.
Thank you. It's still there, but it's manageable.
Next question-- Why are they sooooo long? Anything beyond the length of the leaf spring is excess. Why do they extend to the center of the truck?
Luke@MillerPerformance
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I set them as close to parallel with the driveshaft as I can. The other end is attached right where the frame is still flat, before it goes up by the spring mount.
m j
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WTF does the driveshaft angle have to do with a traction bar?
I had a cummins friend mention that same thing
it isnt any more work to build an effective single ladder bar then it is to make the 1960s era traction bars especially for the $$ these shops charge
fordfreak4life
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The shorter the bar the more binding the suspension has during articulation
Luke@MillerPerformance
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1 - it looks nicer.
2 - Allows the suspension to flex without binding.
3 - Cause it's 2" 1/4 DOM in clear powder and I want the honda racers to get nervous when they see them.
m j
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I will give you 1 but 2 and 3 are bs
cccj
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LOL So your concerned about the looks and suspension articulation, but not about creating an anchor in the ground clearance or overbuilding because of bending moments.
m j
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it still binds.
you have the 1/2 spring length as the upper link, and a 5 foot lower link, they are not going to share a travel arc with the back 1/2 of the leaf spring
1- its easy to fab
2- its what the unaware customer base expects/wants to buy
3- good profit margin
cant fault a guy for taking the money.
I refused to make them for my Cummins friend
you have the 1/2 spring length as the upper link, and a 5 foot lower link, they are not going to share a travel arc with the back 1/2 of the leaf spring
1- its easy to fab
2- its what the unaware customer base expects/wants to buy
3- good profit margin
cant fault a guy for taking the money.
I refused to make them for my Cummins friend
Luke@MillerPerformance
Member
Humor man haha.
On a stock height truck, link to link is about 60". That puts it right at end of the frame rail just before it bends up. In my mind, it's the cleanest mounting point.
As for how they work, it keeps 600hp stuck to the ground.
JrStroker
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