My 7.3 issues

mn_sclb

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Hey everyone, I'd like to start off first by saying I'm new to the forums. I've been on a couple of the others, but I think i like this one best (mostly because i can easily read from my phone lol) but I've read some pretty helpful threads and I hope someone can help my solve my issue(s)

Now, a little bit of background on this cluster phuck of a truck i have.. I traded my 97 sclb 7.3 for this e99 sclb (I'm just more of a fan of super duty) the guy i got it from had big plans for the truck. He put in Stage 2 splits, a TS-6, and a D66, and was going to get a wrecker bed for it. Unfortunately, life got in the way and he now had a newborn on his hands, and couldn't afford it anymore. The truck needed a bed, and brakes, It also has an oil consumption issue. The Po said something like 2qt/600miles, He wasn't sure why tho, he suggested turbo pedestal O-rings.

So I got the truck, unloaded it from the trailer, and drove it 2 blocks to my house where it sat. The first thing i noticed about the truck is that it had a hard time starting (45 degree weather, no snow yet) probably 6 mins of cranking 30 seconds on/ 30 off. But it would eventually start, and run rough for a few mins. The other thing i noticed is that at operating temperature, if I turned the chip up, then back down it would idle weird until i shut the truck off.. like a weird fast lopey idle. On my 97 i experimented with the 10k mod a little, and it was pretty similar to that. Knowing that i started checking sensors. ICP had oil in the plug, and EOP was broken. So i Fixed the EOP, closed the hood and went on with my day. It had snowed over night, and it was down to 30 degrees. Me wanting to check out my new toy, i went out the next day to try to start it. Now, the cranking time had almost doubled, but I managed to get it started. this time I went to check oil, check fuel filter for oil, and batteries. But me being a dumba$$ i didn't get the fuel filer cap tight enough, and the truck suddenly shook violently and stalled out, then started spraying fuel everywhere. I tightened and restarted, truck ran fine, went on with my day. The next day, is when the sh!t completely started to hit the fan. I go out to start the truck, but this time it's not starting. It just pumps out white smoke, and cranks away. As i keep going, the smoke gets darker and darker, and the motor stumbles as if it wants to start, but never actually does. I had read that if the IDM doesn't get 10.5v it wont start, so I recharged the batteries, Hooked up my cheepie scanner with Torque on my phone, then went back to work. I saw that ICP would build to 3200, then drop off instantly when i stopped cranking. checked IPR, and sure enough it was unplugged, plugged it back in and now it would hold ICP, but still wouldn't start. Next, i moved on to glow plugs. I tried Ohming them, but they all showed 0 ... Thinking it was the UVCH i started ohming injectors, They all showed values. So then, frustrated, I gave up to hit the forums. The next day I took a fuel sample, before trying to start again. Except this time the battery voltage would go from 12.7 to 9.5 within 20 seconds. Brought the batteries in to be load tested and charged, both came out to be 925 and 12.7 again. Gave it another shot at starting, and the truck cranked 3 times, then just stopped. from then on the starter just clicked once while turning the key, then once more letting go.

Since then, I've pulled the valve cover, fixed the UVCH (which was half unplugged) and pulled out my #6 injector to check for bad injector O-Rings. I checked out my turbo which has no play at all, but intake boot did have a tear in it though, which was full of fuel... Oops.

So basically, I'm at this point where I have this truck, that I don't even know where to start with. I'm starting to feel in way over my head, and I think i need some help. Sorry in advance for such a long post, but if you read this far in there's still hope for me lol. My next post, will be all of the pictures and videos I've documented over the last 2 months. Thanks for any help guys.
 

Arisley

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WOW.

Problems. I would start with getting that intake boot fixed. Some good batteries, and make sure all connections are clean. Can you bar the motor over? If you can get it to fire, run a compression test.
Have you checked the HPOP level. It should be within a 1/2 inch from the top of the reservoir. There is a allen head screw on the top, remove it and dip a piece of wire in there to check level.

Welcome to PSA.
 

mn_sclb

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Screenshot_2014-12-08-13-00-26_zps3238a5e8.png

Graph of ICP

Screenshot_2014-12-08-12-53-53_zps02c6063f.png

RPM,V,ICP,MAP,HPOP,PW,Duty cycle

CAM00011_zpsdd632fa2.jpg

Ripped boot

CAM00013_zpsd56afe90.jpg

Turbo


FD24E631-4781-4886-A9BA-E3A13451AD00_zpszwtuq9l1.jpg

O-Ring

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GVc2HLjR33Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
only video of truck running
 

psduser1

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You might pull all the injectors, reoring and/or flowtest. While the injectors are out, bar the engine over, and make sure the cylinders are not flooded.
Take the starter off, have it checked.
Sudden stop cranking is not good. If all that checks out, you should be able to put it back together and run a compression check.
 

mn_sclb

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Alliant power in Wisconsin is like a 5 hour drive for me, if I went down there to buy o rings could they flow test? I just got under there to took at the starter and the cables don't look too pretty.. If I were to pull all of the injectors out and the starter freed up, could I purge the cylinders by cranking out of the injector holes ?


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psduser1

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Alliant power in Wisconsin is like a 5 hour drive for me, if I went down there to buy o rings could they flow test? I just got under there to took at the starter and the cables don't look too pretty.. If I were to pull all of the injectors out and the starter freed up, could I purge the cylinders by cranking out of the injector holes ?



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You could, then you could clean up oil also, if your hpop is doing what it should.
Just bar it over, these don't spin over that hard.
Some guys have used a shopvac to clear the cylinders as well.

As far as alliant, you'd have to talk to them, see what they offer for walkin service.
 

mn_sclb

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I basically stole the truck (but not really haha) I started with a 97 f150 paid $1500 for it, traded up to a 99 f250 w/ a 5.4, which I traded for a 97 f250 7.3, and now here we are. So total, with what i spent on all of them combined I'm only in like $2200. So if the p/o really did all of those mods I have a still pretty decent profit margin. Granted this one has 310,330. I love anything that is loud and goes fast (a 7.3 is at least one of those things lol) I'm a senior in high school, so I'm kinda on a pretty tight budget. But post hs I want to go and become a diesel mechanic. Something about the smell/sound of diesel appeals to me, and I've never been one for the fart can sound of a ricer. So this truck basically to me is something for me to learn on. I'm looking to make it a decently quick 450 hp machine, and I think stage 2's would get me there. The mods the po said he's done, are injectors, turbo, and a chip. I can't be for sure, because I don't have a flow tester, and I don't trust myself to disassemble my injectors. As far as I can tell, it still has the stock hpop, and is going to need almost ever relevant sensor on it. I've basically excepted that it'll never be "fast" without some serious mods that'll just end up breaking so VERY expensive stuff. I spend several hours reading up on forums, so I have a pretty good idea on what I'm working with. I also have a little body experience as i interned at a shop. I found a bed from a member on another forum for $300 delivered. The problem - it's a dually bed, and the wrong color. As far as I know I could remove the fenders, but then I'd have holes to fill. I couldn't really find any info about removing ford dually fenders, but on a cummins forum a member there quoted it as being like 40 holes. That's one option, or I could take his bed, and as he's doing a SRW swap, trade for his Axles too. But he has 4.10s and I have 3.73s. My 97 with 3.73s and 31s I could see 21-23mpg if I was nice to it (16 on my worst days) and I'd like to have this one be near that. I also "work" at a dealership, so I can get a non running gasser for like $1500 for parts. (Bed, some interior stuff) and part out what I don't need. Overall my truck is pretty good. Has some rust, but no holes, just in the paint. I've only driven it twice. Once off of the trailer and again to a different spot where it sits now. The first time, I gave it the boots just to see what it can do. Without the bed, it just kinda burned out, and let out a cloud. No hard shifts, my 97 had a problem where it would scavenge, so I just had to be sure. I think it has a hydroboost issue, as I couldn't brake and turn at the same time. It also has a really rusty hard brake line going from the front to the back along the frame. So all of that being said. This is my theoretical parts list.
A starter, glow plugs, hpop, icp, ipr, eop, bed, orings and possibly injectors (fingers crossed), and a compression tester (I'll get one from Harbor freight within the week, along with a mityvac adapter). Sorry for the long winded posts, but I'd like to be as thorough as possible before throwing $$$ and random stuff. It's been pretty cold recently so I haven't really had the chance to do much, but it's that time of year to start getting dirty. That's the complete background on how I ended up in this situation. Im going to use this thread to post the (hopeful) progress, and get help from people who REALLY know what they're doing.



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psduser1

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Sounds like you just need to spend some time checking different systems out, thoughly. At that mileage, you may have compression issues, or injector issues, or any number of things. Take your time, replace suspect parts as you find them, and I don't mean with o rielly specials, lol.
This platform is pretty durable, with decent care, but stuff wears out. I wouldn't even consider hp upgrades till you have the basic mechanical issues sorted out.
 

mn_sclb

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I made a pretty decent chuck of change from yesterday's snowfall, so I'm going to be buying a gear reduction starter, and compression tester BD has them on eBay for the 03s for like $90. I actually left a bit of info out about the no-crank. The battery voltage doesn't drop while turning the key, if I'm not mistaken that's a sign of a bad starter, along with HUGE amp draw before it dies. I'm still going to try and turn it over by hand just to be sure. Do i just but a breaker on the crank pulley and go nuts on it? And what size bar should I use, and what size socket?


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psduser1

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Your on the right track, lol.
Clean all the connections while you have them apart also. Shiny metal means clean.:thumbsup:
 

mn_sclb

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By the way, thanks guys for helping out a broke kid who's way in over his head. Times like this I'm glad to own one of those blue and white ovals 💪


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Arisley

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OK. barirng the motor over with the injectors out will clean the cylinders, but with the injectors out, they can refill.

Install injectors, pull glowplugs. Ohm them out while you have them in your hand. If you have to replace one, just do yourself a favor and replace them all.

With the glowplugs out, set the valve covers on and finger tighten a couple bolts on each one. Bar the motor over two complete revolutions, that will purge the cylinder of the worst of the fluid. Make sure the 42 pin connector is not connected, and hit the starter for about 4 or 5, 5 second hits. Slap the injector in there and bust it off.

Check on Swamps websight, he has some awesome directions for replacing injectors and not killing your motor.
 

mn_sclb

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Sounds good, tomorrow I'm gonna borrow a breaker from a friend, and get my compression tester. The harmonic balancer bolt is 16mm correct?


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Arisley

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Not sure what size it is, but I am pretty sure it is bigger than that. I think it is more like 22mm, could be wrong though.
 

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