johnp115
Active member
Id be confident in saying that would just be a waste of time lol
Help help help codes no power please
- Thread starter TXlineman83
- Start date
dsberman94
Well-known member
It's just weird what it's doing. I've dealt with the dead actuator and this was what it did but no matter what, park, neutral, drive.
I'll back up what someone else said last night to check the ebp sensor and tube.
It's also difficult trying to diagnose it without being able to monitor everything and hear everything for yourself, not through microphones and speakers.
TXlineman83
New member
dsberman94
Well-known member
Not trying to be a smartass, but wouldn't it suck to find out you changed out the turbo only to find out later that you had a problem with your transmission. Right now I'm guessing that you have a broken stator in the torque converter. I think you have a mechanical issue that the ECM or TCM hasn't picked up on yet to set off a code or light.
Unless the tune is keeping it from reving to limit smoke. OP, I would try a canned tune and see if it does the same thing.
TXlineman83
New member
I just don't get how I could have a broken transmisson part when the truck went into the shop with no problems other then a blown bellow. And I was there helping the final assembly and there for the first startup with the new turbos. Unless the shop drove the truck hard enough while it was dropped off to break something.
When the atmo turbo is spooling at higher rpms and at highway speed there are not any problems either
TXlineman83
New member
Tried canned SCT tunes and H&S tunes. In the h&S tune it built a little more but still no boost really
johnp115
Active member
I dont think a tune would act like a rev limiter like that. Because you can brake boost gearheads tunes to 2000 rpms
johnp115
Active member
My best guess is electrical. It has to be.
Doesn't matter how or when stuff breaks, it can happen at any time. Only thing that matters is fixing the problem. I'm sure a broken converter can be diagnosed properly before you separate the transmission from the engine and spend the money on parts. I think you need to have a good powerstroke shop look at it, someone with some experience.
I just watched your brake boost attempt video, and if it was my truck I would not have thought of turbo problems first. Has it always been that bad? Like stated before, I bet both turbos could be locked up and you could get the motor to rev way past 1000 rpms.
TXlineman83
New member
[Q UOTE=jngreen;1017754]Doesn't matter how or when stuff breaks, it can happen at any time. Only thing that matters is fixing the problem. I'm sure a broken converter can be diagnosed properly before you separate the transmission from the engine and spend the money on parts. I think you need to have a good powerstroke shop look at it, someone with some experience.
I just watched your brake boost attempt video, and if it was my truck I would not have thought of turbo problems first. Has it always been that bad? Like stated before, I bet both turbos could be locked up and you could get the motor to rev way past 1000 rpms.[/QUOTE]
It has only run like that since the shop did the work on it.
I just watched your brake boost attempt video, and if it was my truck I would not have thought of turbo problems first. Has it always been that bad? Like stated before, I bet both turbos could be locked up and you could get the motor to rev way past 1000 rpms.[/QUOTE]
It has only run like that since the shop did the work on it.
TXlineman83
New member
Yeah. I was thinking the same. And then the truck sat on IDS for hours and On Demand by snap on and every diagnostic attempt showed the truck working properly.
TXlineman83
New member
And I'm fairly confident it not being a transmission problem considering the sound the motor makes when you apply throttle from idle. It has a miss in the injection system or something. I'm done with throwing parts at it. I don't mind testing things with something to back it up. Say the EBP should read 5ohms and it's reading 20ohms as an example. Then I'll replace it. Otherwise it's going to a PSE and they can figure it out. The reason I keep posting is bc if someone can suggest a test. And it fixes it. Then that saves me god knows how much money having to take it somewhere else
TXlineman83
New member
http://youtu.be/upx652H1poE
Just to throw it out there. That was on gearhead race tune. Look at my FRP from idle to 80mph full throttle. Does that seem pretty high or normal. Also I maxed out at 32lbs of boost where as I should be seeing 55lbs or so.
Just to throw it out there. That was on gearhead race tune. Look at my FRP from idle to 80mph full throttle. Does that seem pretty high or normal. Also I maxed out at 32lbs of boost where as I should be seeing 55lbs or so.
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forcefed6.4ford
New member
Depends on what Matt references his fueling on. If its is tied to MAF closely the fueling will be held back.
TXlineman83
New member
29k peak dipping to 24.7k FRP full tilt race tune on stock fuel. Either I've got a super healthy injection pump or something's not working right. That's how I see it.
TXlineman83
New member
Never. I looked at his videos and was thrilled by the anticipation of fun coming my way only to be disappointed by a chitty shop.
forcefed6.4ford
New member
I had the same thing happen with mine. Talking with Matt, he said that it could be the injectors calling for different injection events. 2 larger shots vs three smaller ones. I can peg 29K below a certain rpm. Once above it I will only get 24-25K.
