2005 block heater

eng53ine

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Need to replace my block heater on my 2005, O’reillys has a zerostart element and cord for $90. Found the same thing on Amazon from the zerostart store for $65, with a lot of mixed reviews. Is this something better to get oem or are they pretty well all the same?
Thanks for any input.


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eng53ine

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No, was going to but they haven’t replied to any posts since the end of November.
 

DEEZUZ

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I would just try a cord first. 98% of the time it's just the cord.

And we've used zerostart for years. No issues
 

eng53ine

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I would just try a cord first. 98% of the time it's just the cord.

And we've used zerostart for years. No issues
Ok, but I should be able to ohm through the current cord correct? I don’t get any arch or whatever ever you’d call it when I plug it in. I’m not sure if this one did that but my 7.3 did, I assume it worked last winter before I changed my glow plugs. Only had two or three of the eight that worked.
 

DEEZUZ

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Luxury for me I just grab a cord off the shelf and plug it right in and then put my hand on it or listen for it. I've never tesred either or.
 

DEEZUZ

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Absolutely any parts store should have the cord/heater.
 

eng53ine

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Luxury for me I just grab a cord off the shelf and plug it right in and then put my hand on it or listen for it. I've never tesred either or.
I might have a cord hooked to a 7.3 in the field, I’m assuming the cords are the same connection at the heater.
 

DEEZUZ

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Yep. You'll either have a screw on cap or the 2 prongs that just slide over the threads.
 

DEEZUZ

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I'm betting the factory cord connection terminals are fried.

I've legit never changed a heater element in a 6.0 and have zero issues taking them out of. 300k engine sand tossing them into new motors.
 

eng53ine

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I'm betting the factory cord connection terminals are fried.

I've legit never changed a heater element in a 6.0 and have zero issues taking them out of. 300k engine sand tossing them into new motors.
That’s kinda what was just going through my head, the past two winters it had to be plugged in below 50* to start. I think I also gave the cord quite a jolt, when I pulled my inner fender out for glow plugs.
 

bismic

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The elements do fail occasionally
block_heater_failure.png
 

6.0 Tech

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That’s kinda what was just going through my head, the past two winters it had to be plugged in below 50* to start. I think I also gave the cord quite a jolt, when I pulled my inner fender out for glow plugs.

Stupid question, but if you have it a jolt pulling the inner fender, have you verified it’s still plugged in? I know they’re more of a pain in the ass than that typically, but if the retainer wasn’t seated or had rusted or something, it could’ve happened…


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eng53ine

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Stupid question, but if you have it a jolt pulling the inner fender, have you verified it’s still plugged in? I know they’re more of a pain in the ass than that typically, but if the retainer wasn’t seated or had rusted or something, it could’ve happened…


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I gave it a wiggle and pushed in on it, seemed to be attached, I’m going to pull it off and look at the contacts, also thought about just pulling the element. Wouldn’t think I’d be out more than a few choice words and a cup of coolant.
 

dsberman94

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I’ve done mine quick enough to only lose a minimal amount. Definitely not gallons, probably a cup or two. You could always do the shop vac on the coolant reservoir to crest vacuum and pull it out. Should keep a lot in.
 

DEEZUZ

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Just had to change one in a 7.3.

I put my airlift vacuum on the bottle and pulled 25 in hg..

It definitely helped in removing the element and slamming the new one in. I did get a few cups but instead of pouring out it glugs out like if you were pouring milk out without letting air back in.

So yea pulling vacuum helps to an extent.
 

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