Aftermarket hpop problem symptoms.

dsberman94

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I'm currently having an issue with my hpo system. Now it's on fresh 15-40 oil and it's still there with the same symptoms and issues. Oil gets up to around 180* and it dies. Can't restart it till it gets below 130* then it dies again around 180*. This is with a t500. I haven't had a chance to test it yet as I'm waiting for a hose to be made and a gauge to arrive, but does this sound like what happened to the srp units when they went bad?

When it dies and I try to restart it, the dash gauge says I have LPO, jumps up after about a second of cranking. Shows absolutely 0 icp when it dies at 180. Unplugging the icp sensor gets me a reading of over 2000 psi, which is odd in itself. T500 was new in March. Runs fine right up until it just dies wherever I'm at. Should I call terminator and see if that's how they typically die, and hopefully he sends one out so I can get this fixed, as its my daily driver? It kinda sucks borrowing a car all the time.
 

CarportMechanic

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Symptoms sounds like a faulty IPR. Check the wiring harness to make sure you have no wire chafing and the connector is in good shape.

Did you replace the IPR when you put the T500 in? Or even rebuild it?
 

dsberman94

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I cleaned the ipr up but didn't replace or really rebuild it. Just got all the oily residue from a leaking hpop and dirt crud off of it before reinstall. This is way too exact every time to be wire related
 

NC714

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Sounds like High pressure oil leak. IPR, IPR O-rings, Injector O-rings, etc. Make sure the nut on the IPR is on tight. I would Eliminate these things before suspecting pump.

Disconnecting ICP makes PCM go to a default ICP value, so no worries about the 2000psi reading
 

dsberman94

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Default icp value should be 750 from what I've read. I kinda agree on the Injector ORINGS but I just put PIS injectors in and although I read about 1 case where the rings went bad in 5000 miles. I just kinda hate to believe it. I'll see if I can nab an ipr sensor because I know the tin nut is tight and I'll go from there.
 
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dsberman94

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No. That's how I know there's an actual leak somewhere. In working on getting an ipr so I can test whether it is that or not. I'd hate to buy one and that not be it.
 
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dsberman94

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How about just rebuild/replace o-rings on your IPR? Less than $20.



Rusty


That's always an option. I'm worried about the electrical chunk of it being bad though. And the only place I've found a rebuild kit so far is the parts store, and dorman parts and powerstrokes are a definite negative IMO.
 

mandkole

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if you can get a known/working IPR, Id shove that in. Even with a couple of top injector rings that leak, it will still hold back enough oil pressure to run (just takes more pump DC). Quitting like a light switch turning off, seems more electrical/switch related.
 

dsberman94

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I'm trying to get one before I buy anything. I know it's not a cps because I pulled my original one early this year and replaced it with a new one. I got a cps code recently from extended crank times, but I replaced it anyway and still not good. So it's not that.

I've got a buddy with a 7.3 in a van with a lot of
Miles and it's just sitting at the moment. It ran but the hpop seal went and it doesn't run till that gets fixed. I'm gonna see if I can borrow that one this weekend.

Now that I've had a chance to think about this it does seem like it would be the ipr getting stuck or something like that. Every time it has quit on me, it's been under a change of throttle percent while hot. When I was testing it today it was fine running hot until I revd the motor a couple times then I died. When it died on me last Thursday I had just let off the throttle from passing a car with the oil up to temp. It died on me twice in one day when I changed throttle position getting onto the roadway, once in the middle of the road on that day. I'm gonna track down a known good ipr and give that a shot before I buy anything.
 
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dsberman94

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^thats why I don't want to just reseal it. With as much runtime is on this truck as I think there is, I'd rather replace the whole thing. If I get a known good ipr, could I just change the coil out or would it be best to change the whole thing anyway?
 

mandkole

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just keep track of the steps youre taking, but throwing a new coil on is real easy. If it freaks out again, then pull the whole IPR.
 

Jomax

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Before you do anything. Change the IPR. Or at least borrow one to test.

Only after that, try to do anything else.





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Jomax

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I'm trying to get one before I buy anything. I know it's not a cps because I pulled my original one early this year and replaced it with a new one. I got a cps code recently from extended crank times, but I replaced it anyway and still not good. So it's not that.

I've got a buddy with a 7.3 in a van with a lot of
Miles and it's just sitting at the moment. It ran but the hpop seal went and it doesn't run till that gets fixed. I'm gonna see if I can borrow that one this weekend.

Now that I've had a chance to think about this it does seem like it would be the ipr getting stuck or something like that. Every time it has quit on me, it's been under a change of throttle percent while hot. When I was testing it today it was fine running hot until I revd the motor a couple times then I died. When it died on me last Thursday I had just let off the throttle from passing a car with the oil up to temp. It died on me twice in one day when I changed throttle position getting onto the roadway, once in the middle of the road on that day. I'm gonna track down a known good ipr and give that a shot before I buy anything.


Have fun getting that IPR on a van. Probably need to go through the dog house.


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