Front left hub noise

[DEEZUZ]

Been fighting this for years and whenever I take it apart it all seems fine.

When 4x4 is locked, and rolling with throttle I get a squeak and a rumbling sound, you can feel it on the floord board.

When you let off throttle and roll the noise gets louder.

The wheel bearing is good, brand new u joint and shafts, and new hub locker. I have no idea what's loose up there as there is not much else up there.

Any thoughts?

 

[BrewTown]

Drive shaft? Front obviously...
I had mine come apart at about 70 on I94. The ball in the Double Cardan came out the side of the socket it fits in, meaning it was swinging unbalanced, and cracked the transfer case.

Process of elimination may be in order if something isn't obvious.
For instance, if it happens hubs locked with or without the t-case locked, pull the front shaft to see if it does it.

Other thing is there is needle bearings in the hub or knuckle. I honestly can't remember if they are part of the wheel bearing or pressed in somewhere else. They should be cleaned and greased regularly, and if loose obviously replaced. I believe the stub shaft actually rides on it in the knuckle hub area. If that's dry it could squeak, and loose will cause the sound and vibration. Maybe you know the one I'm talking about if you were just in there for the other stuff?

 

[DEEZUZ]

Yes I've replaced the inner wheel hub bearing and it's newer and greased. I had one go out and eat my outer shaft. I replaced the entire assembly.

Just had this all apart 2 days ago and everything was greased.

Unlocked you won't hear a sound. But locked it makes sound all day.

Front driveshaft has new double and cardin joint and newly balanced

 

[DEEZUZ]

The only thing that possible is if the inner part of the shaft inside the tube is broken.. But it all spins and locks.

 

[BrewTown]

Does it happen only in 4wd, with power from the t-case? Or does it happen hubs locked in 2wd?

 

[DEEZUZ]

4wd with hubs locked

 

[DEEZUZ]

And it is 100% the LF wheel end making noise.

I wonder if I should just change the knuckle seal. It seems like it's good but under load it may be flopping around...?

 

[DEEZUZ]

These new lock hubs I installed had a spring type spacer and took up much more of the slack of the locker moving freely inside the hub. Those are tight for sure.

 

[BrewTown]

Sounds like you covered your bases. I'm not really coming up with anything. Seems to hold in 4x under power I'm assuming.
It sounds like it is stress related. Something deflects or gets enough stress under accel or decel to start moving. That new axle is the same as the old? Not an offset u-joint location or larger diameter hitting a grease zerk... I'm really grasping now. Maybe ignore that...

That seal shouldn't be holding the axle, if it is something's wrong. The stub shaft being held in the hub and knuckle should be locating the axle on the wheel side/u-joint. There isn't anything else holding it until the carrier. Correct me if I'm wrong, just trying to think it through

 

[DEEZUZ]

I believe the knuckle seal holds more support than we are giving it credit for. It has to be letting go under load.

That's where I'm going to start when I tear this down again. They are very robust seals.

No zerks on top ball joint.

Shaft was like for like.

 

[DEEZUZ]

I could have it torn down in 10 minutes, but right now we are having a blizzard and probably can't get parts.

 

[BrewTown]

All that snow is just south of me. Lucked out I guess. Might get some lake effect?
I no way will it hurt to change that seal. I'll cross my fingers for you!

 

[DEEZUZ]

Thank you as always I'll keep posted


Yep. All my Chicago friends are upset they are getting nothing. Here I am 30 mins south getting DUMPED on

 

[DEEZUZ]

The slip joint had a tiny bit of play. In and out yes of course it slides

But it had a wobble to it in the splines. Hmm

 

[BrewTown]

I've read of the special grease Ford sells/recommends is a miracle worker for that. No 1st hand.
Still no snow here...

 

[DEEZUZ]

Well, it's definitely bad and loud. Rolling under throttle it's a low growl. Let off throttle and it's clangy. You turn and it squeaks, disengage 4x4 it's completely gone even with hubs locked. You engage 4x4 and it's back. You can absolutely feel it in your feet. I might rip it apart tomorrow but I really don't know what I'll find. If you take a pry bar and pry on the shaft it has almost no play and feels very solid.

 

[6.0 Tech]

Well, it's definitely bad and loud. Rolling under throttle it's a low growl. Let off throttle and it's clangy. You turn and it squeaks, disengage 4x4 it's completely gone even with hubs locked. You engage 4x4 and it's back. You can absolutely feel it in your feet. I might rip it apart tomorrow but I really don't know what I'll find. If you take a pry bar and pry on the shaft it has almost no play and feels very solid.

If it’s only when I’m 4x4 it sounds more like a t case issue. With the hubs locked, the axles and driveshaft are spinning, as is the front output of the tcase but it’s freewheeling. I would lean towards maybe slop in the chain or something along those lines.


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[dsberman94]

T case chain stretch possibly. Or bearing on the output.

 

[DEEZUZ]

I know I can't judge the chain but I spun the front driveshaft while separated from the front axle and it feels absolutely wonderful.

Wonder if I can drain the T case fluid and see if it's sparkly

 

[jschildm]

Your issue sounds very similar to mine (I had no squeak) before I rebuilt the front driveshaft. Hubs locked in T-Case in 2-Hi and there were no issues. Engage the T-Case and then it would vibrate on acceleration/deceleration, but if I could would "coast" with no load on the driveline, it was fine. I know you said the u-joints/double cardan were all good, but I wouldn't completely rule out the driveline yet. I also wondered about the output bearing/chain on my T-case before the driveline rebuild fixed my issue.