srp1.1 disassembling

[m j]

the rear cover is siliconed in, any tips or tricks to remove it?
the core pump was tricky to get rear cover off without the addition of silicone
thinking i might use a puller to pull the shaft and see if i can press the cover off
i dont see a snapping preventing that idea in any of the hpop images i have

 

[Swaan]

If it was me I'd try a little compressed air. Take snap ring out back of the pump and use your air nozzle with the rubber tip in one of the ports and see if you can't just blow it out. Use caution thou.

 

[m j]

yup. tried that. sealant is holding quite well

 

[DZL JIM]

JB Weld 3 nuts to the cover in a triangle.
Once it sets up thread in bolts and pull on them.

 

[m j]

I was thinking of breaking out the tig to attach something, so we are on the same train of thought there

 

[Swaan]

I thinks it's a little crazy that you gotta start welding or glueing sh$t to the cover just to get it off. You can't tell me this is what Gary does everytime he needs to go into a pump for warenty issues or what not.
What if a guy just used a porta/power and hook it up to one of the jic fittings and just use a little hydraulic pressure to pop it right out the back. Just a thought!!

I would however steer clear of any heat with tig. I could see the heat causing issues with warping. But that just me.

 

[m j]

if I can pull the shaft out, which I could on the stock 17° but I havent opened one with a rear bearing in it, then I could apply some pressure with a press in the center of the cover.
I think before I get drastic I will find some ORB plugs to seal the output ports and go with more air pressure but it seems to me it pushes fluid out the front seal when I pressure it up (or just spins the pump and dumps the pressure to the outputs)

 

[m j]

made an adapter for the slide hammer, 12mm coarse thread bolt with a 5/8"-18tpi nut welded to it.
shaft popped out easy enough, a couple of taps the rear cover was off

next area of concern is the 'rollpin' that keeps the swash assembly from rotating.
is the swash slotted to allow it to slide off or just drilled?
if its drilled the housing will probably be ruined if I press it

 

[m j]

slotted

 

[m j]

front seal part number

'tool' I made from info on a PSN thread. if someone was going to do a lot of this a lathe turned aluminum or brass piece would be a lot safer

 

[DZL JIM]

So you made a press to hold the parts together?
I've taken a few pumps apart and never really figured how to get them back together. Never thought of a fixture to hold the parts together like that.

Find anything interesting in there?

 

[m j]

I found the whole thing 'interesting'

the rear bearing is on the shaft very tight
the only wear I saw was on the shaft splines
I dont like the sealant he used on the rear Oring or the Oring he used (looks to be a generic black oring but it might be a viton) so I replaced it with the brown Viton from dielselorings.com
it ran great and leakfree after I reassembled it right up until the rod went threw the oilpan

 

[Mr.BigOil]

The shaft and bearing are OEM parts.

 

[m j]

next piece of HPOP history to explore.

is the shaft on the front pump a custom piece or is it sourced from the 466 pump?

 

[Mr.BigOil]

Custom.

 

[m j]

this setup looks to have traveled a bit.
if anyone knows its history please give me the low down.

 

[David N]

It acutally looks like the one I had. I bought it from up here, can't remember the guys user name. I loved the power it made but it was so damn complicated to get to work with the way my fuel lines were ran. I opted to sell it. I almost wish I would have kept it now.

 

[TyCorr]

What ya got in there now? Twin termies?

 

[David N]

Im actually in the process of making a Gen3. I liked the simplicity of removal and installation of this much better than a dual pump setup. No more dual pumps for me. I'm hoping I didn't sacrifice any drivability though. The truck drove just like stock with the dual pump setup. Almost too good LOL

 

[02BigD]

How could you sacrifice driveability?