up pipe bolts

[248superduty]

So i was looking at the up pipes on the truck and fount that i dont have a cracked one but on the pass side the two bolts at the flange are loose. like loose enough to spin by hand in the holes. i have no idea how long its been like this and it doest seem to be leaking because their isnt any soot around it. its kind of wierd to me i would have thought it would have leaked.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Are they after market bolts? Meaning is your up pipe the deleted one?

The cheapo hardware that comes with the egr delete kits are garbage. There is a reason why the factory hardware is expensive, they don't break or back off. The factory up pipe nuts are w300051 and the bolts are w300013...

 

[DEEZUZ]

And it's not leaking cause the pipe has pressure on it from being clamped to the turbo

 

[248superduty]

Oh so yall think I can get away with just removing the bolts and swapping for correct ones?

 

[Mdub707]

My OEM bolts that connect the up-pipe to the exhaust manifold are the reason my non VGT swap took me an extra 2 days to do. I could have taken the damn cab off and been done quicker. Bolt was stuck right in the manifold.

I don't know that I'd go through the trouble of ordering new parts to fix this... why not just tighten it up? Maybe a dab of lock-tite on the bolt? Up to you. I'm a big advocate for OEM style fasteners, but they drove me absolutely nuts when I did my non VGT swap.

 

[DEEZUZ]

I don't think that's a direct fault of oem bolts. I have seen some pretty crusty mill trucks and have had the same issue you had. Lots of heat, perpetrating oil, air hammer, etc involved.

 

[DEEZUZ]

If anything, lube the entire bolt up with copper anti seize

 

[Mdub707]

I had to cut the bolt in half first, with a dremel (you know how little room is in there), then the up-pipes came out from the top, no biggie. The cut off bolt was still stuck in the manifold... not really a good way to hammer on it from the top... so I ended up cutting the entire head off of the bolt with the dremel, then hitting it with a small torch (again, not much room before something else catches on fire) then blasting it with PB blaster, then a long extension with a garage made punch on the end to hammer it out of the exhaust manifold. PITA.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Next time heat it then spin it with impact.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Here's one on a 7.3 that luckily I had to pull motor anyway on.

Bolt extraction: http://youtu.be/FNIykRstrGU

That last tick you hear is that bolt bouncing off a toolbox 25 ft away. Lol

But even in frame I have to deal with bolts like these. It's always best to soak em down for a little, then loosen and tighten them til they break, or dremel or torch them, then spin them as much as possible with lube to break the rust away. A c clamp socket and spacer works also

 

[Mdub707]

Next time heat it then spin it with impact.

electric impact wouldn't touch it. I then snapped a 1/2" drive socket on it with a ratchet, by hand. It wouldn't budge man.

 

[248superduty]

Mike im a little confused by what your saying. My up pipe flages look like they have a nut and bolt holding the up pipes to the manifolds. I can see where they have been spinning for a long time their since they have worn away the rust on the manifold side of the flange.

 

[Mdub707]

Yes, those bolts. 3 of mine were loose and would spin around just fine, one was locked up solid into the manifold itself. I cut the bolt in half and was able to get the up pipes out from the top, but that half cut off bolt was still stuck in the manifold. Couldn't even turn it with the impact with it cut in half....