Recent content by DBQLSC

Both of those kind of feel the same, as you can spin them around the torch. Just zip tie them on and electrical tape the sh#t out of them to keep them from moving.

That is a rocker switch for high frequency start. I have one on my machine at work. It is constant amp, works good for stainless pipe. Keeps the pecker tracks down. You need a rotary amperage control. They should all fit a standard 17 series to a 20 series torch. Ck, weld craft etc.

Roller rocker my friend. People that do tons of aluminum use them exclusively.

Huh, here I thought I was all alone.:toast: I think I'm going to build a cradle that bolts to the motor mounts. I'll start that after I modify my fuel pump mount. Made it just a little narrow and can get the fittings in.

Sometimes the inner liner of the soft line breaks down or fails causing it to act like a check valve. I had one fail, so I replaced them all with stainless braided hoses. The one that failed was so bad that when I had to heat a flare nut with a torch to get it loose, it shot across the garage...

Any tips to hold the engine? I've got a bigger regular stand but not a side mount one.

Yep, everything is coming out except for the crank, rods and pistons.

But can you do it in cab? I'm assuming so I just am looking for reassurance. This build went from a simple stud job to way out of hand.

Carbonator pump, transmission cooler and a muffin fan. You'll have a better cooler than a miller. The miller coolmates have a smaller pump than a carbonator. I built mine for $200 and let me add a solenoid to my gas. Skinned it in stainless sheet and it looks pretty good.

OK just need advice from people that have done it. I can't pull my cab but I can pull the engine or drop the transmission. I'm leaning towards dropping the trans because I don't have a way to hold the engine. I'm not dropping the crank either, just pulling the flange.

You can do it with lanthiated, thoriated just takes more heat and I like to glow at night.:cool: A water cooler also helps to remove heat from the torch, get it too hot and the tungsten will pretty much explode. Aluminum is the only time I run a foot pedal just to back the heat off once you get...

I just use argon and ep with 1/8 thoriated tungsten. That is good up to 3/16" thick. Any thicker and you run helium en. After hearing ac for 10+ hours a day it's nice to have nice quiet dc.

Just an fyi if you have a dc stick you already have a tig. You just need the lead and gas. That will do everything that you need to do, you just need to get used to it. Aluminum can be done on it too, you don't need ac.

Yep, it's some custom unit by pius at bell turbo.

Patrick at warren has an 83mm I believe, on his white truck.