10 second ebpv solution

thatsmokinobs

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i am writing this because for the last two winters, the ebpv (exhaust back-pressure valve) on my 7.3 has been the most annoying little sh!t in the world, and no matter where or how much i looked, i could find no solution. when the engine was warm, like in the summer or sometimes when plugged in, i would start my truck and about 2 seconds after that, the ebpv would kick on, making a very loud noise through my exhaust at idle, like someone was blowing pressurized air through it, then go away after 3-5 seconds. but when the temperature got below 40* or so, thats when it got annoying. i would start it, and this time, it would not make the noise at idle. i would turn my high idle on and afteer a second or so, the ebpv would close again, and since its basically an exhaust brake and it was at 1000 rpm, it made a helluva lotta noise through my 4" straight pipe. very annoying :cursing: sometime last winter i found that if i let it warm up for 10-15 minutes with the high idle on and the valve closed, then shut the engine off, and restarted it, the valve would operate like it did in the summer and come on for 2 seconds then turn off until the engine was cold again. so thats what i did the remainder of last winter and up until today. this thing has made me late to school, late to vo-tech, and almost late for work, and ive had enough of it. so last week i bought the exhaust back pressure sensor, figuring that the sensor could be giving a wrong reading and causing it, so i changed that today and i was going to take off the tube that it connects to and cleaning that out, but i didnt feel like fishing that thru the engine. just changing the sensor was a waste of $100, it did nothing. so i tried to shove some weedwhacker string thru the tube to clean it, but i would only go an inch or so. other than doing that, i couldnt figure out what to do, my dad was more lost than me, i searched everywhere, i asked everyone i knew too including my vo-tech teacher and some diesel mechanics and NOBODY had ever had experience with this issue.

that is until i found a thread on here and in the thread somebody said to just unplug the solenoid for the ebpv. duh. :fustrate: im gonna try to find the thread again to give credit to the guy who said to do this.

so, the easiest way to deal with this is to just find the connector and disconnect it. im not sure if they are all in the same spot or not, but either way, it should be the only wires running to the turbo. mine was on the drivers side, right under the intake tube, next to the strand of wires wrapped in red tape for the injector wiring harness. i have heard of some people taking the power wire from this and hooking it to a toggle switch to use as an exhaust brake and/or speed up warm up, but im lazy so i opted for the easy way. this takes not even a minute to do and its free so thats a win-win for me.

if i remember, im gonna get some pictures tomorrow of where it is. i hope this helps somebody, but i bet i just confused you even more.
 

thatsmokinobs

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ok i found a pic of the connector
Ryanspictures001.jpg
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the strand with the red tape is the injector wiring harness wires.
 

superpsd

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That's funny because when my IAT is plugged in my ebpv goes crazy when EOT is cold. I'll be driving and the valve would go nuts. Unplugged it dosent come on for more than 3 seconds at startup. Besides that it had been directly listed that the IAT input helps the PCM control EBPV and GPR on several Ford diagnostic sites. On my 97 I also saw no difference in GPR time on unplugged or plugged. IAT has no effect on the PCM calculations of fueling and timing.
 
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ToMang07

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Wow....I can't believe that in over 20 years of these trucks, nobody has thought of this before.

We shall call it... the "Thatsmokinobs' Mod!"

I see a lot of sigs in your future!
 

thatsmokinobs

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Hahaha i cant tell if youre serious or not, but i feel like youre being a d!ck and theres no need to be. I know im not a mechanic and never said i was. This thing sure made me feel stupid many a time, i dont need someone else doin that.
 

ToMang07

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Hahaha i cant tell if youre serious or not, but i feel like youre being a d!ck and theres no need to be. I know im not a mechanic and never said i was. This thing sure made me feel stupid many a time, i dont need someone else doin that.

I'm pretty much always a dick, but don't take it personally.

And just because there's no need, does not negate desire!
 

cleatus12r

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Just so there's no confusion by others that will read this thread, the operation described by the original poster is NORMAL OPERATION. There is nothing wrong with his vehicle. The backpressure valve strategy in the programming is ridiculous but for the most part simply annoying.
 
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thatsmokinobs

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No this is not normal operation. Ive seen/driven many 7.3s with the ebpv still hooked up and working properly and it is not like what mjne was doing. And until last winter mine was too. Im not sure when or how it activates normally but i know mine wasnt
 

cleatus12r

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when the engine was warm, like in the summer or sometimes when plugged in, i would start my truck and about 2 seconds after that, the ebpv would kick on, making a very loud noise through my exhaust at idle, like someone was blowing pressurized air through it, then go away after 3-5 seconds.

Normal

but when the temperature got below 40* or so, thats when it got annoying. i would start it, and this time, it would not make the noise at idle. i would turn my high idle on and afteer a second or so, the ebpv would close again, and since its basically an exhaust brake and it was at 1000 rpm, it made a helluva lotta noise through my 4" straight pipe.

Normal

if i let it warm up for 10-15 minutes with the high idle on and the valve closed, then shut the engine off, and restarted it, the valve would operate like it did in the summer and come on for 2 seconds then turn off until the engine was cold again.

Normal

i couldnt figure out what to do, my dad was more lost than me, i searched everywhere, i asked everyone i knew too including my vo-tech teacher and some diesel mechanics and NOBODY had ever had experience with this issue.

It only makes sense since they obviously had no idea what the calibration was commanding to happen.

so, the easiest way to deal with this is to just find the connector and disconnect it..

The easiest way is to fix it in the tuning and use the exhaust backpressure valve in a more common sense way.
 

7.3psd97444

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Lmao. These threads are funny. If its normal operation bothers you, how about gutting it instead of just unplugging the wire.
 

thatsmokinobs

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Cause then i have to take off the turbo, take the stupid thjng off take everything outta it, plug the holes it has, then put it all back together. Why do that when unplugging it gives the same result put takes 10 secnds instead of all day?
 

79jasper

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I've gotta say, I have NEVER had a problem cleaning the EBP tube.
Some brake kleen or pb blaster, and go at it. I've always used speedometer cable.
You should've cleaned it before replacing the sensor.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
 

gnxtc2

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I highly recommend if you don't want the EBPV to gut it. Leaving disconnected will work for some time but oil is going to leak from actuator rod.

Pick up non-EBPV pedestal or cut it off the original and TIG weld it up.

Mine operated the same way and had to go the same warm up process to make it stop closing. Mines been gutted for years.

If you want to use it as an exhaust brake, you also need to keep the converter locked with an auto for it to work properly.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 

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