6.4 engine swap no start

Yan7gin · Apr 17, 2016

Good day,

long story short, swap the engine because the old one ad a rod trough the block. this is the info i have:

P2291 injector control pressure low-engine cranking
injectors 7 & 8 fail Buzz test
getting 4441.35 Psi of fuel rail pressure when cranking.

the fuel system got bleed 3 different way:

key on and off about 10-15 time
with the fuel pressure tool from the schrader valve in front of the cooler
and with the banjo bolt (banjo bolt, fitting and hose) through the rear cooler hose

the truck has no intention to start for now, it just crank, crank and crank. already recharge the battery twice.

no smoke

any help would be appreciated THANKS

6.4 Stroker · Apr 17, 2016

Can you see that there is absolutely no more air left when bleeding the system?

Yan7gin · Apr 17, 2016

6.4 Stroker said:
Can you see that there is absolutely no more air left when bleeding the system?

when doing the bleeding from the rear banjo bolt, I can see some small bubble but really small. it drink over 2.5 gallon when bleegind it and did the bleeding during almost 3 days. unless the method i'm using is not right.....

what are the minimum requirement on the HP side to get the injector fired? 3000 psi? 5000 psi?

78f100 · Apr 17, 2016

5000 psi to start.

Yan7gin · Apr 18, 2016

thanks, I'll give an other shot at bleeding tomorrow and see if anything change.

Yan7gin · Apr 18, 2016

ok tried to bleed it again today by using the banjo bolt with a hose going into a 5 gal jerrycan. fill up the 5 gal twice and still has some small bubble coming once and a while. tried to start it and still nothing.... crank but not start. this is the 4th time i recharge the battery.

is the injectors 7 and 8 failing BUZZ test can be the cause of the no start?

I checked fuse 72 - good (turbo actuator rod is moving when turn the key to ON position)
try to press the fuel shut off switch in the passenger side (also try to hold it when starting)
checked the HPFP connector behind the GP's module

what would you guys look for...... ANY IDEA IS WELCOME

6.0 Tech · Apr 18, 2016

You have rpm and sync? Is it even trying to fire? Both valve cover harnesses plugged in tight?

Bustedknuckles · Apr 18, 2016

I drove myself nuts trying to start one after a cab off injection pump job. ABS codes gote checking the 2 big plugs at the frame under the master cylinder. One had apparently had a bad connection, unplugged it, sprayed it out with electrical cleaner and the truck started right up.

Yan7gin · Apr 19, 2016

6.0 Tech said:
You have rpm and sync? Is it even trying to fire? Both valve cover harnesses plugged in tight?

I do have RPM. sync??? you'll have to explain, I have a 7.3 myself and the 6.4 is new to me

I do have AE with ford bundle for diagnose but will need a bit of explanation.

Yan7gin · Apr 19, 2016

just had a though and decide to open the fuel filter on top of the engine. I'm guessing this is not good!!!

6.0 Tech · Apr 19, 2016

Sync is cam and crank correctly identified, if you have rpm and no cam code, it is probably ok, but check it anyways, and cmp fault. Also, as was stated, check the 2 big plugs under the master, as they beak fairly often. However, those typically give you all sorts of lights.
Does the truck have the egr system intact? If its trying to start but not, it coukd be a stuck open egr. I think at 4400 psi, it would be trying to start at least. I have started them with the bleeder in the banjo and watched them pour air out for about 20 sec. #7&8 failing the buzz test should not cause an issue, unless they are stuck open. But that is another thing you would see white smoke, or hydrolock. The oil level hasnt gotten higher has it?

6.0 Tech · Apr 19, 2016

Chit, you pisted those pics as i was replying. Yeah, youre f***ked. Looks like a fuel system is in order. All that rust and what not is more than likely in your injectors and hpfp.

Yan7gin · Apr 19, 2016

6.0 Tech said:
Sync is cam and crank correctly identified, if you have rpm and no cam code, it is probably ok, but check it anyways, and cmp fault. Also, as was stated, check the 2 big plugs under the master, as they beak fairly often. However, those typically give you all sorts of lights.
Does the truck have the egr system intact? If its trying to start but not, it coukd be a stuck open egr. I think at 4400 psi, it would be trying to start at least. I have started them with the bleeder in the banjo and watched them pour air out for about 20 sec. #7&8 failing the buzz test should not cause an issue, unless they are stuck open. But that is another thing you would see white smoke, or hydrolock. The oil level hasnt gotten higher has it?

it crank be does not try to start, no smoke, no hudrolock, oil level still the same. yes the truck is bone stock and there is a beeping sound coming from EGR valve area when key is ON

6.0 Tech said:
Chit, you pisted those pics as i was replying. Yeah, youre f***ked. Looks like a fuel system is in order. All that rust and what not is more than likely in your injectors and hpfp.

ok so I only need to replace HPFP, injectors, HP line, cooler and fuel filter bowl? I can take those from the old engine I remove witch had the rod through the block. the only thing I have to buy is the HP line kit with injectors seal/washer....

6.0 Tech · Apr 19, 2016

You will also need to replace both fuel rails and flush all the lines, and you may check that nothing ended up in the low pressure pump. If it did, you may need to drop the tank and clean it out as well.

Yan7gin · Apr 19, 2016

thanks, I guess i have to get to work now

6.0 Tech · Apr 19, 2016

Good luck.

Yan7gin · Apr 20, 2016

opened the fuel filter on top of the old engine today and it was clean as new. so i removed the injectors, fuel rail, HPFP and fuel bowl. will send the injectors for testing and still waiting for gasket, seal and line to come in.

I removed everything around the engine (in the truck) and ready to remove the turbo, valve cover, .... tomorrow

really appreciate the help, THANKS

6.0 Tech · Apr 20, 2016

No worries man. Hope it all works out.

Yan7gin · Apr 21, 2016

So got everything is removed again and I think the #8 injector is stock open, the exhaust manifold was full of fuel. I guess this is the reason I couldn't bleed the system correctly

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6.0 Tech · Apr 21, 2016

Yeah thats an issue. Weird you werent seeing any smoke while cranking, or hydrolocking though. Especially if there is enough to fill the exhaust port.