Berman's 7.3 build
- Thread starter dsberman94
- Start date
dsberman94
Well-known member
Pushrods and sway bar end links will be here today. Hopefully both installed this weekend but the forecast isn't looking helpful
dsberman94
Well-known member
Does anyone know the shop time to install sway bar end links? I'm thinking about atleast tackling the drivers side tomorrow morning if the rain stops tonight. If it'll take too long then I'll just do them when I get a chance and the weather cooperates.
Posted from ***itville, USA
Posted from ***itville, USA
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Do them one at a time. 5 minutes per side unless you have severely corroded bolts.
live life full throttle
dsberman94
Well-known member
Bolts look really clean so it should go simple then. And since ive been up all night I'm gonna go start that as soon as the sun comes up. Then maybe old turbo disassembly. Then class. Then home to do more truck stuff. Lol. Did I mention pushrods see here too
Posted from ***itville, USA
dsberman94
Well-known member
Anyone know if riffraffs treated factory forged rods are way better than just normal factory forged rods? What power level will they hold to?
Posted from ***itville, USA
Posted from ***itville, USA
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Cryod rods dont really allow for more power. It simply makes all the rods the same strength. Takes all the defects out per say...
live life full throttle
dsberman94
Well-known member
Well, learned something new today. Worth the $500 for them when the time comes or no?
Posted from ***itville, USA
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Yeah.. if you dont have forged rods now then its worth it. But for those who already have forged rods then its prolly more cost effective to send them in and have them Cryod...
live life full throttle
bruce
Active member
to me they aint worth 500. you can't just pull out a set of pmr and throw those in and expect to be peachy. the rotating assembly needs to be balanced so at that point you're lookin at a rebuild. I wouldn't pay 500 for a stock set of rods when I can buy complete forged rod engines for not much more than that
dsberman94
Well-known member
So here my stock turbo and the reason I took it off and replaced it.
as well as the axial play that caused that to happen.
Posted from ***itville, USA
Posted from ***itville, USA
dsberman94
Well-known member
And after looking at the rebuild kit instruction on riffraff just to see how everything was supposed to be, it was ***ed up baaad
Posted from ***itville, USA
Posted from ***itville, USA
dsberman94
Well-known member
Ok I know it's around somewhere but I can't find it. how much do guys with the 38r tighten down the wastegate actuator?
Posted from ***itville, USA
Posted from ***itville, USA
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
How many pounds of boost do you hit on the street?
dsberman94
Well-known member
dsberman94
Well-known member
I can force it over that by going 100+ so I know it's not sensors or the insight.
Posted from ***itville, USA
Posted from ***itville, USA
This is right. 25 is the boost. Add atmospheric pressure to that. 25+14.2=39.2 if the back pressure is 40 or a hair over you're real close to 1:1.
As for your boost number, it may be a tad low. If you tighten the actuator down all the way so it'll just use barely open, you may squeeze 28 out of it.
Hope that answers your questions.
dsberman94
Well-known member
dsberman94
Well-known member
So it'll be a bit of a guess and check type deal. I don't want to pull the turbo do I'm gonna try it while still on the engine.
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