Blinker Fluid or GEM Module

Bushwakd

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For the past 4 years or so I have been having some electrical issue with my truck and it has not been driven in almost 1 years. Symptoms are slow cranking and batteries are slowly draining so I replace them. Replaced starter with a new one. Replaced alternator with a new one. First was the stock alternator and 2 aftermarket alternators. First aftermarket alternator died and took the new batteries with it.
Now here comes the ghost stories. Sometimes while driving with the stock radio on it will jump to cd mode with no cd installed. Enough of that nonsense so I turn the radio off and listen to the sound of my 38R singing. Still with radio off it jumps to cd mode and no cd installed. Pulled fuse to the radio to see if that is what was draining the batteries and causing the slow cranking.

Next symptom is the turn signals. When I put the signal on it flashes for a few seconds then stops flashing and the dash panel indicator stays lit up and does not flash. It will initially start to flash then stops.

What all does the GEM control? Are the turn signals included in that function?
I have a new flasher relay to install but I am not sure that will fix it. Maybe a chafed wire from the signal arm lever in the steering column.
What to do? What to do? Where would you start looking to start to diagnose it?
 

Brad.S.19

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For the turn signals do you still have the factory cp series relay versus the ep series?
Some wires around the aux relay box and radio like to chaff that could be your issue mine did near a bunch of clustered wires.

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Bushwakd

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For the turn signals do you still have the factory cp series relay versus the ep series?
Some wires around the aux relay box and radio like to chaff that could be your issue mine did near a bunch of clustered wires.

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I have the factory Flasher Relay. Never been replaced.
Where is the Flasher Relay located?
I just used the key to open the drivers door and immediately I hear a relay chattering constantly and no dome lights are on. No key in ignition. I popped hood and one battery is at 9.12 volts and one is 11.66 volts. I will not put new batteries in until I figure out what is draining them.
The relay chattering is #1 relay. Interior Lamp Relay
Close door it stops chattering. Is the chattering relay from low battery voltage?
 

Brad.S.19

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Ahh it was a tsb/recall you have to pull the whole dash apart (not bad at all) it is right by the steering column you need a taller cover to compensate for the new relay. It is 18.99 for non led and 19.99 for led nf-ep27 at napa local pricing though. It takes about 2 hours max and patience so you do not break any thing my blinkers did the same thing before I lost them completely. Look for chaffed wires by the wire harness near the radio and hvac controls I also found some in the column area it self. There is also two fuses iirc.

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Bushwakd

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Ahh it was a tsb/recall you have to pull the whole dash apart (not bad at all) it is right by the steering column you need a taller cover to compensate for the new relay. It is 18.99 for non led and 19.99 for led nf-ep27 at napa local pricing though. It takes about 2 hours max and patience so you do not break any thing my blinkers did the same thing before I lost them completely. Look for chaffed wires by the wire harness near the radio and hvac controls I also found some in the column area it self. There is also two fuses iirc.

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What is the TSB#? I would like to know exactly what it talks about.
 

Brad.S.19

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What is the TSB#? I would like to know exactly what it talks about.
I'm sorry I do not have it anymore or access to the information regarding. I recommend asking someone on here who has access to it or calling a few shops(not the dealership) how do your four ways work. Also when you turn do you hear a clicking noise at times or certain postions?
The battery draining issue on the other hand have you checked for any "leeches" in the lines from the battery to the alt and grounds?
Do all your 12v plugs work properly(not bleeding power) and accessory functions?
What type of blinker fluid are you using some may interfere with the muffler bearings you used?

Honestly check all the fuses and grounds for the issues you are having with a test light first if you have power and a ground. Then try using a digital multimeter to check the resistance and volts/amps all the goodies (probably not correct terms) follow the wires etc. make sure it is not spliced improperly or damaged. In the westpoint section they have the entire wiring diagram for the dash area you need on page 200 something it helps a lot. You have gone through 3 alts and what type of batteries are you using?

I can not see your sig on my phone what in all is done to the truck?

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Bushwakd

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Motorcraft, Deka, Interstate batteries.
Stock alternator lasted 10 years next a China knock off and this last China knock off is still going.
 

Brad.S.19

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I had some cheap knock off parts when I got the truck hit or miss I guess. Batteries I replaced mine with ultrapower 850cca@0*f five year life and factory size I like them but every truck is different for 100 bucks each not bad.


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TARM

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Put a trickle charger on it whenever you park it. At least that may stave off killing the batteries out. If you can keep them from constantly draining down. As long as they are getting the proper charging volts from the alt during the time the engine is running that should hopefully give you enough juice to compensate. You could throw a mulitmeter on and see how much its pulling.


Also you could setup a kill throw switch on the ground bat cable and flip that each night. batteries get costly after awhile.
 

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