Braking issue....hydroboost?

blk350on20s · Apr 17, 2014

OK guys. Some of you know from my thread I'm having a braking issue. The truck feels like it has an extremely warped rotor. The worst rotor my buddy has ever felt and he worked at a pep boys in Detroit for over 6 years. Just idling the truck in drive going down the road and have slight pressure on the brake the pedal will pulsate back at you. It basically slowly pushes your foot towards you then back. It seems to be every revolution. Now go 5-10 mph and apply the brake like you normally would to stop and the pedal literally kicks back at you with every revolution and you can feel it grabbing the brakes hard for a split second as it kicks. It also jerks the wheel to the right and the right front makes noise. Almost like a clicking noise. Some have suggested backwards hydro boost lines but I found a pic from 2 days ago that shows they are not. One with blue tape goes to the one with blue tape which is always the inside one. I'm lost. I pulled the front apart and all pads, rotors and calipers look good and move freely. What you guys think? How can I bleed air out of the hydro boost? I have a guy going to systematically bleed the abs module today. Really hope that's it but none of the braking system as far as brake fluid goes has been separated.

blk350on20s · Apr 17, 2014

Even better pic that shows both lines.

tbsimmons · Apr 17, 2014

When I had a hard brake pedal in my 04, the PS pump blew the seal out so no power brakes.
The pedal never pulsated.
When I have felt what you are describing in vehicles it was some part in the ABS.

521turbo · Apr 17, 2014

Try taking your abs fuse out. Then try it.

blk350on20s · Apr 17, 2014

OK. I'm liking the abs feedback lol. Only thing I could think of. I helped the guy with the scanner finish up a 6.4 last night so he could go out to my truck this morning. Hopefully he gives me good news.

Dzchey21 · Apr 17, 2014

did you actually try to swap the lines? Thats what i would do its easy and you wont loose much fluid, there shoulnt be any reason the pads and everything like that have issues by having the cab off

NathannialD · Apr 17, 2014

Dzchey21 said:
did you actually try to swap the lines? Thats what i would do its easy and you wont loose much fluid, there shoulnt be any reason the pads and everything like that have issues by having the cab off

thats what i was thinking, try swapping the two lines.

after the service bleed if nothing has changed bleed the brakes at the calipers, almost always get air after the cab has been off.

blk350on20s · Apr 18, 2014

A pad and rotor change to the front right cured this after the abs bleed did nothing. I feel like an idiot but I've never felt anything remotely near this with warped pads/rotors.

WoodBoy · Apr 18, 2014

WoW Lol.. I was going to mention changing your rotor since you didn't say that in the first post but I thought surely that was the first thing you tried

TD-5 · Apr 18, 2014

Glad to here you got the brakes sorted out, Curious, in the top picture you have what looks like the VGT actuator mounted to the fender behind the expansion tank, what are you using it for?

RSK · Apr 18, 2014

Time to fix yo brakes Boiiiiiiiiii.

With some Wilwood 6 piston calipers and 16" rotors up front!

blk350on20s · Apr 19, 2014

LOL. These were new last year. We took them apart and everything seemed fine. Oh well. Retard moment I guess lol.

VGT was there for when I was moving the truck around with spartan tuning.