lincolnlocker
Well-known member
me wants wop engine...
live life full throttle
live life full throttle
Built motor options
- Thread starter TyCorr
- Start date
I killed stock forged rods with 250/200's and an S467.8.
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1badpsd
New member
For my tow rig I'm doing s362/480 with 250/200's, mild P/P and other supporting mods....staying with forged rods.
I agree with the small fast spooling turbo comment, I think that has a lot to do with failures. I went 10k with 300/200's s475/83/1.10 on a 300k PMR motor. Track times put me around 650hp and that was low boost launches and awful 60ft times. I towed a 32ft gooseneck grossing 15-20k on a regular bases and no issues.
I agree with the small fast spooling turbo comment, I think that has a lot to do with failures. I went 10k with 300/200's s475/83/1.10 on a 300k PMR motor. Track times put me around 650hp and that was low boost launches and awful 60ft times. I towed a 32ft gooseneck grossing 15-20k on a regular bases and no issues.
ja_cain
Active member
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Ultimately it's still about the amount of fuel you are calling for down low regardless of how much air you have. Live tuning is a must in this situation as you should be able to use torque as an adjunct to actual cylinder pressures. Swamps does have the capability to measure actual cylinder pressure though. I would think they would have a good handle on the best fueling strategy to use down low. Towing is a totally different animal than just blasting on ramps and stop light to stop light hard runs. This is were you have to be extra conservative as I could see cylinder pressures spiking higher than normal in windy conditions because the amount of available drag is much higher with increase in surface area created by the thing you are towing.
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elrodalexander73
Member
When I rebuilt mine, I had it bored, line honed, blah blah and balanced, a small shop called EVI in Swarts Creek Michigan did it, now for some reason they have a **** rep but Stan did me right and to me that's what was most important.. But when I picked up the block I double checked everything, plastiguaged and measured every ring, thoroughly cleaned everything again as well, I didn't just guess. Pistons were delipped, forged rods were rebuilt and cryoed, ARP head studs, 910s, S.B push rods, and you can bet your ass it was the cleanest assembly I had ever done.. More ether than I had ever used. I did small pocket porting (I'm no experience head porter here, just did what I could carefully) new injector cups, new valves too, seats were polished and pressure checked. I installed the adrenaline and a P.O.S D66 that had been on it for 2 years, added some 250/200s and had it tuned pretty mild.. I dynoed on a load dyno that needed Calibrating at the time 573hp and 1160tq, but like I said needed calibrating, I used Clarke Power Services Dyno in Nashville Tn to do it (I work there and have access to both engine and chassis at any time to my liesure, the chassis will pull down 750hp pretty decently) but now we have a new set up and I need to get it up there after I eventually change over to an S468 and some other changes... You can build your own engine if you have tons of patience and understand what will happen if you cut corners...
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Arisley
Moderator
Buy three or four FR stock motors with "low" miles. Build you a good set of heads, a good set of studs, and all the other stuff to make the motor sweet. Hardblock it. Run it till you break it. Lather, rinse, repeat. You will get really quick and good at building a 7.3.
Vader's Fury
Active member
I have thoughts of doing this for the drag truck I want to build. I am just worried that after spending $$ to get a set of heads done right (p&p and all) that when the motor fails it will damage the heads and I will be out as much as if I had just done it right the first time.
Powerstroker7.3
New member
But who want to keep pulling a motor every time they break a rod. That's why when I broke my pmr motor I just bit the bullet and went back with a built one.
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Arisley
Moderator
I don't care how good of a motor you have, you will still pull the motor every time you break a rod.
Vader's Fury
Active member
I see what you did there LOL
You lost me at having to do this crap again. I want a motor that won't puke with 550hp put through it occasionally.
Although a few fr motors would be nice. One to do the mock for the compounds on.
OBS-Addiction97
Member
I like the idea of a $1000 used forged block. As much as I want a built 7.3 I can't see spending that kind of money on a 17 year old truck.
Ok. So if I sold a completely built truck, with a Twin Turbo kit for 25-30, that wouldn't be out of range.
Ok. So if I sold a completely built truck, with a Twin Turbo kit for 25-30, that wouldn't be out of range.
No. Finding the right buyer might be harder than building it though. I've had my 00 since new so it's more for longevity on my end.
psduser1
Active member
I think we're on the same page...
psduser1
Active member
Ok. So if I sold a completely built truck, with a Twin Turbo kit for 25-30, that wouldn't be out of range.
Depends on the condition of everything around the engine. Im seeing relatively stock, very good trucks go for 10-ocassionally 20k. Right buyer, who know?
thuglike
Active member
What a bunch wusses.......LOL (I kid....
How much you guys willing to spend to get what you want? Just curious.
24586.....in 2006. :jawdrop:
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