cheapest/ best way to do a single stack

[Awesome]

wanna do a single stack on my rig im not sure to do a 7in or 8in slash cut stack. but i want it to come up strait from where the exaust is. not moved out to be closer to the side of the bed... what kit should i go with? there's alot out there... js want some advice or links please

 

[Tonka350]

I did a 5" stack ( you're not really going to do a 7-8" stack anywhere remotely cheap considering the stack alone is sometimes over 200 dollars.) however I went to a junkyard and pulled everything but the 4-5" adapter off the semi. I think I had 70 bucks invested iin a 5" mitre stack kit that did exactly what you want.

Chad

 

[jwlandry]

Get with Paul at complete performance and tell him you want one of FTE's single stack kits. They are super nice and will give you want you want.

 

[SouthFlstrokin']

You could just buy mine...

 

[vanderchevy18]

Check out Irate Diesel Performance. Jake has a killer 6" miter cut stack kit super cheap. Its under $300 if I remember correctly. His has everything. Flex pipe, elbow, clamps, mounting plate, and stack. It mounts to the floor of the bed.

 

[MAC]

I thought there was a member on here selling some stacks he built?

They looked pretty heavy duty too.

 

[MAC]

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5862

Here.

 

[20007.3stroker]

Yep young7.3, they have an 1/8 inch wall. He doesnt chrome them though, so you have to paint it.

 

[Awesome]

hm i want the whole kit tho... and southfl... whatcha got? lol

 

[vanderchevy18]

That's what I was saying. Jakes is an entire kit. As is FTE. Just Jakes is cheaper.

 

[SouthFlstrokin']

6" Chrome mitre kit, bolts right up to a 4" exhaust $ 200 shipped

 

[Awesome]

well perfect price... but lol i wanted a black one... 7 in.. and i have a 5in lol but thanks

 

[SouthFlstrokin']

ahhh ok well good luck bud!

 

[Tree Trimmer]

go to your local parts store, get a piece of 4" flex pipe 18" long, a 4" 90* bend, a 4-__ adapter, and your stack. a couple clamps, and your done. cut a hole in the floor, be happy.

i gotta 48" long, 6" chrome plated mitre stainless stack, $280, but the rest was like $75.

you can use any piece of __" pipe, cut to the mitre angle you want, and then just paint it black.

depending on where you source your parts, you could have the whole thing made for less than $100. bone yards are your friend.

 

[bruce]

i don't like usin a 90, i use a 45 with the flex hooked to that. makes the bend a little easier

 

[Awesome]

yea i was thinkin about that with the 90*...v45* seems alot somother... and yea i been pricin it out seprate like that... its easy to do by urself right? performance shop close to my house said theyd do it up for 400... idk lol

 

[Tree Trimmer]

cut a hole in the bed straight up from the exhaust.

take the stack, and put the adapter on it to go from the size of the stack to the size of your exhaust.

then put the stack in the hole, with the top of the stack where you want it in relation to the top of the cab, that will tell you if you need a short piece of pipe to get the 90* elbow lower and inline with the rest of the exhaust.

when its in line, put a piece of flex pipe between the 90 and the rest of the exhaust.

then cut the exhaust so it fits inside the flex pipe, and remove the rest from the truck, as you will not be using it anymore, as you now have a stack.

keep in mind there is a cross member there, right where the stack needs to go if you want it as far forward as it can get in the front of the box. you will need to notch the cross member out approx 1-2", otherwise the stack will be that far back from the front of the box. its a preference thing. i notched mine, my buddy did not. no difference in ours, except his has a 2" gap between the stack and the top/front bed rail, under the rear window.

if you talk to paul at complete performance there is a "stack bracket" that mounts to the floor of the bed, that makes a real clean look where it comes through the floor. you will also need some sort of a clamp to hole the stack to the bed rail, or where ever you decide to support it.

ill see if i can get paul to comment in here with some pics i know he has.

 

[Awesome]

ok thanks man... i was wonderin about that cross member.. cause i hate how it looks from the side when its back far... is it ok to get close to the plastic bed liner? it wont melt or anything will it?... and i wanna keep my tonno cover... ive seen ppl do it.. i dont care about a little water gettin in. but once again will it get to hot for the tonno?

 

[Tree Trimmer]

you should maintain about 1-2 inches around everything like that. an inch around the bedliner, as even if i have a mountain dew bottle roll up against mine, all it does is shrink a tad where it touches.

the tonno cover i do not know though. i guess it depends what kind it is. regardless of type, i would imagine that one inch would do, and can almost guarantee 2 would be over kill.

but at the same time, i have a stainless stack. it takes longer to heat up stainless as opposed to a painted steel one.

read into that what you will.

on edit: if you do put in a stack, and you haul groceries in the back of the truck, make sure to tie the bags shut. if a bag opens, empties, and blows into the stack, it is guaranteed to melt to it. and it dont come off. i have been working on melting mine off, as with a chrome plated one, i cannot scratch it off, though you could wire wheel it, and just repaint it.

 

[Paul@CP_Trucks]

It would be alot faster and cleaner to do a single Stack Kit.... you can add your own stack to save money....


We can get you set up with some pricing if your interestedimp: