Clutch issues

estew6.4 · Feb 1, 2016

I just had a South Bend competition 3600 dual disc with all new hardware, throw out bearing, fork, front bearing retainer, (heard it called a quill tube as well, the sleeve the throw out bearing slides on) and new hydraulics. Drove and shifted fine for about 200 miles then the clutch just wouldn't disengage. Still had plenty of pressure in the pedal. I could tell the clutch wasn't disengaging because of the sound it makes when it's disengaged. Did new hydraulics the next day with no improvement... any thoughts? I also noticed the master flexes a lot and if I have truck running down the highway and I get the rpms up to about 3000+ and try to clutch and not let off the throttle it disengaged just for a little bit then grabs again anything under 3000 it does nothing sorry for the novel!

estew6.4 · Feb 1, 2016

I also extended the slave rod 1/4" as told by a company South Bend referred me to and did nothing. I noticed the fork has a lot of play when the slave is out. If the plastic pivot ball broke would this cause it to not disengage? I can still see that it is stuck in the bellhousing cause I can see the nipple but if the other nipple that the fork mounts to broke off I would assume I would have a lot more slop

maxrpower · Feb 2, 2016

I'm sorry I can't answer your question, but i'm zf6 guy too with ******* tuning and was wondering what tune you run with the south bend and if you find the rpms drop really fast during shifts? I'm still on my stock clutch for another month or so and I feel like to match the rpm drop and shifting I have to slam it through the gears and almost get on the clutch early to hang the rpm a little. Not sure if that is normal or not.

estew6.4 · Feb 2, 2016

Well I had a dual disc street clutch and I ran the 275 or 310 most all the time it shifted very smoothly at any rpm. I just had a 3600# installed that had issues (which just figured it out 2 hrs ago broken release finger) but before it acted up I was running 310 and I never noticed any lag in shifting.

estew6.4 · Feb 2, 2016

I'd say you might have a sycro problem. Or you just need to get rid of that factory clutch with it no up to par will affect your shifts. I couldn't run more that the 250 with out slipping the factory clutch

maxrpower · Feb 3, 2016

I don't think its a syncro problem, it goes into gear fine and smooth but the clutch engagement is in a weird spot so it makes it hard to make the shifts smooth before the rpms hit idle if that makes sense. Probably the factory clutch like you said.

Also from a stop i get a lot of chatter until my rpm is above around 1100. Flywheel maybe? Idk i just need a south bend kit lol

estew6.4 · Feb 4, 2016

Yeah if there's not grinding it's probably not sycros... at what rpms are starting your shifts at?

estew6.4 · Feb 4, 2016

That's sound is most any manual transmission when you have the rpms to low for the selected gear you can feel it lugging and chattering that's gonna happen regardless but a new clutch should fix all your issues. I will say my factory clutch was by far my quietest clutch I've had the street dual disc had a little more noise and this comp 3600 dual disk I have it real noisy but I like the sound. Others not so much lol

estew6.4 · Feb 4, 2016

Here is the culprit to my issues. Only 3 of 4 fingers were releasing.

Big Angry Hillbilly · Feb 14, 2016

If you're using the throw out fork, release bearing, and **** they sent you, check the part numbers on it.

Make sure they're not for the wrong truck.

Like a 1998-2000 or so truck. With a 7.3 in it.

Just worth a look.