Coolant Temperature questions

[NEVRNF]

Truck seems slow to warm up. Temps have been as low as 16* and as high as 35* over the last week. I plug in and remote start it and after 12-15 minutes I usually get out of the house. Coolant temp usually shows about 100* when I get in the truck. 1st 12 miles is stop and go and temp gets up to about 150* as I get on the highway. 10 miles to my exit and it is up to 190's when I get off. Tonight we went and did some running and at the last stop I sat in the truck and waited as I thought it was going to be an quick in and out. About 15 minutes went by and I noticed it did not seem as warm and the temp showed 155*. We left to go back to the house. 15 minute drive in traffic and the temp only came up to 180* . Compared to my old 7.3 which stayed at 200* all the time this seems strange. Previous owner said he had a coolant leak and had replaced the thermostat last year. I just did the rest of my weight savings on Thanksgiving and also drained the cooling system and refilled with fresh coolant. I have never seen a thermostat act like this and I don't know when he replaced it if it was q OE or aftermarket. I am wondering if I have a cooling fan clutch sticking? If seems to have the normal amount of drag when spun with the engine off. Could it stick at operating temp and get free when cooled down? Being new to the 6.7 I have some learning to do.

 

[08Monster]

Mine wad the same way. Cold blooded as hell. I couldn't even hit 180 in town. Couldn't break 120 idling either in the colder months.

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[crcrawford87]

That's pretty odd because the 6.7 is designed to run at a higher operating temp so it's more efficient. On my diesels in the winter I always cover part of the radiator with cardboard to build heat.

 

[08Monster]

That's pretty odd because the 6.7 is designed to run at a higher operating temp so it's more efficient. On my diesels in the winter I always cover part of the radiator with cardboard to build heat.

I tried it on my 6.7 as well, didn't make a difference. Tried new thermostats, no change. Only thing that helped a little bit is a pass through egr ******.

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[ckrueg]

Mine barely gets over 170 unless I am on the highway or running it hard

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[CATDiezel]

This is why I left my egr sitting on the valve cover. It serves as a pass through! Lol...

But a stock truck will warm up quicker, by design.

My 11 was the same way. 15 is not much different. The biggest thing that helps mine (started at 3:00am to go to airport) is the fact it lives inside while home. It was 17* this morning and had heat in 15 minutes uses idling. I also run as many accessories as possible to load the alternator.

 

[6.7 Powerstroker]

I just got a egr pass thru plate and it definitely gets the truck up to 190 faster than it did with the plain blocker plate. Usually stays at 180 to 190 though. The pass thru recommended to keep the coolant flowing.

 

[04cr450]

27 here tonight, truck warms up normally to only 194(40 mins of driving at 45 mph speed) the trans still did not warm up tonight. Max was 164 degrees. Now if i am sure if i ran the truck to 1/4 throttle and on it would warm up to specs. Truck is kept indoors though and is only driven on weekends, it can idle(from a cold start) for as long as you want in these cold outside temperatures- 110-120 degrees is all you'll get. Diesels need to be worked to build heat.
Off topic but with the "hyper heat package" on my truck, even if the engine temps are 40 degrees the heat output is toasty!

 

[IHPowerstroke7.3]

Ran across this, have a customer with a 2012 all stock says it takes a long time to build heat. Looked at it yesterday, outside temps are in the mid 20's. What I noticed is the truck doesn't go into high idle when cold. These things used to be at 8-900 Rpms right from startup and now it would only idle at 600 rpm and won't break 100 degrees.
I put in a message to tech hotline, see what I get for an answer on Monday.

 

[Yellow1000]

All of the 6.7s I've had were slow as hell to build engine heat if it's below 30 out. Slow as in you don't get toasty heat until 20 minutes of driving or so


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[08Monster]

Ran across this, have a customer with a 2012 all stock says it takes a long time to build heat. Looked at it yesterday, outside temps are in the mid 20's. What I noticed is the truck doesn't go into high idle when cold. These things used to be at 8-900 Rpms right from startup and now it would only idle at 600 rpm and won't break 100 degrees.
I put in a message to tech hotline, see what I get for an answer on Monday.

They only idle up if it's cold enough out. And they idle up according to ambient air temp. I'm sure there is a table somewhere. I've only seen mine go to full high idle once, and it was -18. 1200rpm. Normally is regular idle to 900-1000 even at 0

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[NEVRNF]

Thanks for the replies. From what I found these are cold hearted animals compared to the ol 7.3. My EGR kit is just a flat piece of stainless so it is not the pass through style. Could the pass through plate be added? I also made the kit flow through as it was a block off style. No Limits shows the plate as a Addition to the kit. Do they sell it separate? It looks like I would just have to drill 2 locating holes in the bottom of the plate.
Was thinking about a winter front to reduce the airflow through the coolers.

As far as the EGR side coolant. Was that just for the EGR system? Does is connect to the Engine anywhere else?

 

[lincolnlocker]

its the nature of the beast.. way to efficient coolant systems.. my 12 is horrible. if it is below 30 then it takes forever.. I did the high idle mod so that it goes to 1200 rpm regardless of temp as long as I set it.. my remote start does 45 min also so that helps.. I have even covered the entire radiator and it helped, but I dont think it helped alot..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[IHPowerstroke7.3]

I agree with the efficient cooling system, but the EGR system runs off the secondary cooling system. Only difference it could make is that the secondary radiator doesn't build as much heat so there is less heat being transferred (through air flow) to the primary radiator.

Its not really that cold out yet, but generally when these things are cold they start up running around 8-900 rpm. When you put your foot on the brake and shift out of park it will drop to 6-700 rpm. If its really cold out, they will idle in the 1150 range in park. If you move them before they warm up, sometimes they are hard to stop because the engine over powers the brakes.

Ford Hotline didn't confirm or deny a calibration change but with all the recalls i'm sure they changed something. Even the calibration of the VGT is different, they aren't closing the vanes as much which would create less heat as well.

While I agree these are totally different beasts than the 7.3's, 6.0's and 6.4's obviously something happened. Customer that I have has had the truck since new and its a 2012.

 

[NEVRNF]

What I meant by flow through was I connected the coolant tank and the bottom port of the radiator instead of putting the caps on it as that was the kit that came with the truck.
Would it make and difference if the head plate was sending coolant to the radiator tank and then from the radiator back to the head plate?

 

[IHPowerstroke7.3]

The way you routed the hoses is correct, basically all you have done is bypassed the EGR cooler on the secondary system.

The head plate/valve cover plate blocks of the primary cooling system side of the EGR cooler. The coolant here from what I remember is just for cooling of the EGR valve its self. Basically coolant from the primary water pump is fed to the block on the passenger side, it then flows up through the head, through the ports in the valve cover, to the EGR valve and back down through the valve cover, through the head and over to the coolant crossover where the thermostat is located.

Having a head/valve cover plate that completes the loop instead of dead heading the cooling system would be a plus but I don't think would help with warming up faster all that much.

 

[NEVRNF]

So yesterday I blocked the radiator to test the effect before I lay out cash for a winter front for the grill. usual warm up routine plugged in for a couple of hours prior to remote starting it. Ran 15 minutes today as the outside temp was 2*
Got in and coolant temp was 126* vs the usual 100*. Drove through the neighborhood and down to the light about 1.5 miles. Coolant temp 156* vs 120*. half way to the highway I am at 175* vs usually 150*. Get on the highway coolant temp is 190* vs 170* and spikes to 201* before dropping to 190* for the rest of the ride. Blocking the radiator for air flow definitely made a big difference. I think I might add the flow through for the valve cover to see what it changes.

 

[08Monster]

So yesterday I blocked the radiator to test the effect before I lay out cash for a winter front for the grill. usual warm up routine plugged in for a couple of hours prior to remote starting it. Ran 15 minutes today as the outside temp was 2*
Got in and coolant temp was 126* vs the usual 100*. Drove through the neighborhood and down to the light about 1.5 miles. Coolant temp 156* vs 120*. half way to the highway I am at 175* vs usually 150*. Get on the highway coolant temp is 190* vs 170* and spikes to 201* before dropping to 190* for the rest of the ride. Blocking the radiator for air flow definitely made a big difference. I think I might add the flow through for the valve cover to see what it changes.

Wow, that's pretty drastic. I used to do that in my 6.4, I put a piece of plywood in-between the radiator and intercooler. Still get icy cool boost, but blocks rad air flow.

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[lincolnlocker]

So yesterday I blocked the radiator to test the effect before I lay out cash for a winter front for the grill. usual warm up routine plugged in for a couple of hours prior to remote starting it. Ran 15 minutes today as the outside temp was 2*
Got in and coolant temp was 126* vs the usual 100*. Drove through the neighborhood and down to the light about 1.5 miles. Coolant temp 156* vs 120*. half way to the highway I am at 175* vs usually 150*. Get on the highway coolant temp is 190* vs 170* and spikes to 201* before dropping to 190* for the rest of the ride. Blocking the radiator for air flow definitely made a big difference. I think I might add the flow through for the valve cover to see what it changes.

I always used 2 old floor mats and zip tied them on the radiator.. I will have to do that when I go home for Christmas. I forgot to grab them over thanksgiving. kicking myself for that one..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Yellow1000]

I throw a piece of plywood in front of my radiator on my 15 also. Block off about 60-70% of it anytime it's under 30 here in Missouri. I used to have the same thing your describing nevr.


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