crank no start

da94broncodude · Jul 7, 2016

Got myself a head scratcher here, have an 02 7.3 im helping a friend try and diag, its throwing me for a loop, when it was first towed over to my place, it would start but take a min, dump white smoke but it would clear out and seem to run fine, maybe a misfire or two, nothing major. last friday i unloaded it off the trailer pulled it inside no problem, tuesday the damn thing would not start for the life of me, AE shows it has ICP, unplugged icp sensor to verify, it has a known good CPS from ford, IDM is good,fuel pump is turning on. when i had it running it gave me a few codes and still is, buzz test and KOEO im getting cyl 1,2,5,8 all high to low side open. also AE shows IDM codes but wont retrieve them, hence why i swapped idm to known good one.

he had a shop diag it and told him it was the HPOP, just wanted to verify before im just throwing parts at it,

any ideas?

Arisley · Jul 7, 2016

If it has ICP, it's not the HPOP. Start with basics. It takes three things to make a fire. Check those three things first.

6.0 Tech · Jul 7, 2016

If you have that many hi to low side open injector codes, i would be looking real hard at valve cover gaskets and uvc harnesses.

da94broncodude · Sep 27, 2016

Never had a chance to finish helping him with this, stuck my computer on it again today, KOEO im getting cyls 1,2,5,8 high to low side open, injector balance codes for 2,5,8 and dtcs of oil pressure switch failure, water in fuel indicator circuit, invalid or missing data for engine rpm, communication bus fault,and some exhaust codes, he said he can get it running with ether, i highly advised against unless he disconnects the glow plug system but he got it started so i could test contribution, seems to run okay def has missfires, icp seems to be good but wont start without a little juice

ghohouston · Sep 27, 2016

Definitely ohm out the valve cover harnesses, and possibly swap idm's.

da94broncodude · Sep 27, 2016

just swapped idm with a known good one, same thing, CPS is new oem ford

da94broncodude · Sep 30, 2016

found a few things wrong with this truck, fusible link between battery and glow plug/ intake heater relays was done, the outside of the connectors to the uvc had a couple of them rubbed thru touching each other separated them and still same problem. Ohmed out the Glow plugs got 1.3 on all of them and 3.3-3.4 ohms on all 4 injectors, they seem to be newer UVCs, said they were replaced 10-15 but who knows. tested continuity from the 42 pin connector to the injectors/uvcs and were good there, next im going to check resistance and continuity from the other side of the 42 pin to the IDM. Truck wants to start on its own but wont, any other ideas? whats ideal cranking RPM? its getting 140-200

juniort444e · Nov 18, 2016

Im having the same issue. I dont mean to hijack your thread, but figured instead of starting another one with the same style of issue, why not build upon this one.

SO here is what i have, 2001 xlt that i swapped motor, motor harness and pcm over from a 2001 excursion limited.

When i first cranked it over, it started right up for 5 secs then died, and roughly 6 times after this it hits for 3 to 4 secs then dies. Since then, nothing. Itll crank over all day and never hit not even a sputter.

I ran AE and got 3, 4, 7 high to low side open. check all connections to make sure they were plugged in, swapped idm out and codes went away. Only code i am getting now is an obd code. While cranking i have around 2300 hpop pressure.
Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

TARM · Nov 22, 2016

da94broncodude said:
found a few things wrong with this truck, fusible link between battery and glow plug/ intake heater relays was done, the outside of the connectors to the uvc had a couple of them rubbed thru touching each other separated them and still same problem. Ohmed out the Glow plugs got 1.3 on all of them and 3.3-3.4 ohms on all 4 injectors, they seem to be newer UVCs, said they were replaced 10-15 but who knows. tested continuity from the 42 pin connector to the injectors/uvcs and were good there, next im going to check resistance and continuity from the other side of the 42 pin to the IDM. Truck wants to start on its own but wont, any other ideas? whats ideal cranking RPM? its getting 140-200

The missing rpm data should be the CPS. If its not the CPS itself then the wiring. FYI a good CPS on some engines is bad on others so just because it was working on one does not mean its OK. Also check grounds as they can cause some really crazy erratic symptoms.