D66 oil leak

[gnxtc2]

I was changing the trans fluid today and noticed that the top of the trans was saturated with motor oil. Valley was dry. So I take my mirror and inspect the turbo pedestal. And sure enough, the top and bottom was oil soaked.

I remove the turbo and the pedestal is coated with oil. So I changed the both sets of o-rings.

What puzzles me is when I split the pedestal from the turbo, there was oil seepage between the exhaust housing and center journal. The exhaust housing and wheel was dry, no evidence of a bad seal.

So I put the turbo on and started it. No leak. So I pull it outside and clean the oil residue. My shop is 20 miles from my house. I get home, I check the turbo. There is oil on top of the pedestal :cursing:.

Is it possible for oil to leak out between the exhaust housing and center journal? I had turbos go in past and the exhaust side was oil soaked.

Oh yea, I have play on the shaft horizontally (in/out), nothing up/down.

Billy T.
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[rusty1161]

I just put a Barder 360 degree rebuild kit in my D66 and there is a split ring seal on the exhaust side. My guess is that is leaking, no other seal there.

Check out pics here http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/vanturbo.php

This is what I used http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerstroke...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35c52969f5

Rusty

 

[rat49f6]

Billy I've seen this happen when they first start to go. The leak is small enough it burns up in the exhaust and doesn't show till its gone... I've rebuilt quite a few of these if you need a hand with it

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[MossBack]

If you have any in and out the backing plate is toast.

This was off my truck with 5k miles of 180/100's and stock turbo... It didn't leak oil like you said but burned a quart every 1k miles...


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[gnxtc2]

If you have any in and out the backing plate is toast.

This was off my truck with 5k miles of 180/100's and stock turbo... It didn't leak oil like you said but burned a quart every 1k miles...


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Would a rebuild kit help or do I need a new turbo/backing plate?

Could you explain the pic better? What are you holding, is that piece shot or the part in the background?

Billy T.
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[MossBack]

The backing plate and the piece I am holding ( oil slinger ) are toast from too much drive pressure... You could get away with just a backing plate and a rebuild. Finding a good turbo can be tough to find. I have even seen a stock truck burn the turbo up.

Edit: not sure if it is called a oil slinger but it sounds good to me...


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[rat49f6]

I've seen many turbos with some play in and out and the backing plate is just fine... not saying it doesn't happen but don't call it a loss yet...
Billy are u driving it daily???

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[rat49f6]

You have a sd or obs I forget?

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[gnxtc2]

Daily driving it, yes OBS. Currently driving it and I have to go to PA on Sat. I don't hot rod, I might get on it to get up to speed on the highway.

There is a lot of play in/out but not touching the housing.

Billy T.
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[gnxtc2]

I have no issue rebuilding the turbo. What I'm concerned about is tearing it all apart and the backing plate is shot, now I have a torn apart turbo and a down truck.

I really don't want to spend the money on a T4 conversion unless it's a true bolt in deal where I can have it done in a day.

For the simplicity of things, I feel like just getting another billet 66 and just bolt it on. Then the other side of me is saying, how long would the 66 last?

The current 66 has 25k miles on it.

Billy T.
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[rat49f6]

Who built your current d66 ? Does it have a 360 thrust block? How many psi is it seeing

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[gnxtc2]

I bought the D66 from Beans which is modified by River City. I don't know the build of it. I changed the cast wheel to a billet.

The most of the time the boost never got higher than 25lbs. I don't beat in the truck, no pulling events...I just tow and daily drive with it.

Only until recently I got it over 30lbs when I was testing out the new combo but that was maybe 5 or 6 times.

Billy T.
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[MossBack]

Did you torque the new wheel? I think it is like 30ft lb


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[gnxtc2]

I followed the instructions that came with the wheel.

Billy T.
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[MossBack]

i have seen turbo's that people used impacts to tighten the wheel on and it crushed the thrust bearing and burns up the turbo.

 

[gnxtc2]

The wheel was swapped with hand tools.

Billy T.
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[OBS-Addiction97]

My d66 only lasted 20-25k. But I was running closer to 40 psi wot.

 

[Bean]

Double check ccv for restrictions. Have the heads been rebuilt at any point? Leaky valve seals can also drip oil from the turbine housing. Depending on how a rebuilder sets up a head I have had them drip oil when they are brand new.

Shoot me an email Billy and I will get Ya set up with a 360 thrust backing plate and rebuild kit.

 

[gnxtc2]

Double check ccv for restrictions. Have the heads been rebuilt at any point? Leaky valve seals can also drip oil from the turbine housing. Depending on how a rebuilder sets up a head I have had them drip oil when they are brand new.

Shoot me an email Billy and I will get Ya set up with a 360 thrust backing plate and rebuild kit.

CCV is fine.

Heads never been off. I replaced the valve seals when I shimmed the Comp 910s. There is no evidence of oil in the up-pipes when I had the turbo/pedestal off.

E-mail sent.

Billy T.
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[Bean]

Ok just checking.

It doesn't take much to make a turbo leak oil from the ends. There isn't really a "seal" like many think of like crank seals or other shaft seals. All there is a is a small split ring, looks like a piston ring and is also called a piston ring. So just a piece of metal with a gap in it in a groove on the shaft against metal of the center section. Shaft play or much of any crank case pressure and they will start to leak pretty easy.

I will send you an email on the parts.