Does this seem right?

mclean

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Put my new NADP full race trans and the RCD 1600 stall convertor in during the summer and since then the highest my trans temps have gotten is maybe 148. Cruising on the highway at 75 it is usually around 128-130 and since the temps have dropped below freezing up here i am seeing 110-118 after a good 45min of driving.

Does that seem cooler than normal? My stock trans use to run in the 170s
 

Dzchey21

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IM betting the thermostat isn't working or got removed when they did the transmission... That is if these trucks have them which I think they do

They should run 160 at least all the time
 

mclean

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not sure but my stock one ran around 170-180 depending on ambient temperature. How do you like the NADP transmission so far?

Yeah thats what mine was always at until i put the nadp one in this summer...now i havent seen it over 150.

As far as the trans goes, have put probably 6000kms on it and love it. Way more power to the ground.

IM betting the thermostat isn't working or got removed when they did the transmission... That is if these trucks have them which I think they do

They should run 160 at least all the time

Excuse my ignorance but the trans has a thermostat as well? How do I check or what do I look for?
 

Rene G

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I think it's the RCD converter, my trans used to run between 180-190, now it's 160-170. I've seen lower temps as well if I get the converter locked up right away.
 

Dzchey21

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Well.on the 4r100 there was a external tube and valve that would bypass the coolers.

My.elite Trans has always ran 170 stock and upgraded in two different trucks. So that leads me to believe that nadp is modding that to never bypass... Which isn't always good in the cold weather


But maybe a builder can verify that. I have been told tho on a 5r it's important to have warm.oil because of clutch engage and disengagement for shift timing esp on binding shifts ie 3-5
 

bigrpowr

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It's the converter. Earlier lockup won't allow as much temp to build up. But I do believe the fluid should be 160+ for proper viscosity.
 

Dzchey21

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It's the converter. Earlier lockup won't allow as much temp to build up. But I do believe the fluid should be 160+ for proper viscosity.

I would think that even then it should.maintain more than 130...

What about engine thermostats? They run the Trans fluid thru the radiator too so.if the coolant isn't warm that will.effect it too
 

mclean

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coolant is fine...hasn't changed. Same temp it has always been

In one night i changed to the nadp trans, rcd converter and gearhead tunes. The coolers were flushed at that time...maybe they are too clean now haha. Maybe I will try to go back to the h&s and see if the different lockup points help warm it up some.

You would think that when it was 75-85* outside that it would warm up to atleast 160 but it hasn't even come close.
 

Jeff@Spartan

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I don't see those temps and I have the same converter. I see between 158-175 typically. That's dependent on driving style, where I'm driving (around town vs. highway), etc.
 

mclean

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i guess I will have to call them again tomorrow. The guy I called today was getting his celsius and fahrenheit's mixed up and told me 110 was normal and 170 was way to hot haha so I just let him go.

Where is the temp sensor on them? Possible that could be screwing up?
 

Dzchey21

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It's in the valve body and yes it could be no good. Check it at start up should.mimick coolant temp and intake air temp with a cold engine
 

mclean

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checked it today and the trans was reading 20* on startup and 0 for oil and coolant for a bit and then the oil and trans both jumped to 28* for a bit. The oil kept climbing and the trans stayed the same.

Called NADP and he told me to try hooking it up to a scanner or infrared the cooler lines to see what it is reading. Gonna have to try that next week once I have days off again.

He also told me that running at 115* shouldn't be too bad on it. Not as bad with the "synthetic" SP as it would be with dino oil. Not sure about that...I would still imagine it would be thicker than it should be.
 

mclean

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The needle on the stock "gauge" on the dash is half way in the green, same spot as my coolant, yet the mini Max still only shows 92* right now. Is there 2 different temp sensors?

Maybe the minimax is reading from a different sensor?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
 

pog

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no those dash gauges just arent accurate. dummy gauges
 

Tree Trimmer

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there is a rather large "window" of "normal temps", with the factory guage.

dead center is probably, im guessing for the sake of example, +/-15*.

that started that back in the 60's or 70's. the reason being, when the public gets a number in their head, say 195*, and it reads 5* hotter or colder, every idiot with a vehicle will be bringing it back to the dealer thinking somethings wrong.

no, its just 100* outside and running a little warm. your fine.

so to curb all those non-existant problems, they came up with guages that read normal over a wide range, and where the guage doesnt even move from the center for several degree's.

and pog. the guages are accurate.

take your wife for instance. tell her that 195* is normal. and let her drive. and everytime it gets hotter than that she will be calling you to make sure its ok.

"pog, its 201*."

"dont worry hun, its fine."

"pog, its...."

"its fine"

and so on, and so on.

now do that on a nationwide scale.
 

pog

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good point. but i still wouldnt go off the position of the gauge to tell what the temp is. who knows at what temps it moves at. here are 4 pics, the first pair are from me leaving my house and the second set is when i got to my destination. look at the two trans temps on the gauge and dd. and then this morning(not shown) my trans gauge was reading in the "normal" zone but the dd showed 94 degrees.
IMAG0408.jpg
IMAG0410.jpg

IMAG0411.jpg
IMAG0412.jpg
 
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