engine build question

[josh.williams506]

i have an 01 pmr engine. i plan on doing an engine swap/build but was wondering which would be more cost efficient and effective in the long run:

A. swamps performance rebuild then adding on to that with a set list of parts and what isnt included.

B. buying a forged motor from a scrap yard and completely going through it replacing whatever is needed, then adding the "set" list of parts

or C. DI's short block and going from there

any suggestions or input would be great

 

[JD3020]

Find a clean, decent mileage, good compression forged rod motor at a junkyard, and run the piss out of it.

 

[Powersmokin32]

I bought a decent forged rod motor and planning on rebuilding it. But I decided to go with billet rods. So I am planning on selling the forged rods I pulled out if interested in a set of used rods?

 

[01stroked]

i pulled my pmr engine out and swaped in forged rods

 

[04stroker]

If you do buy a junkyard motor even with good compression. I would still recommend going through it.

 

[neverkickn]

No offense guys but if you get a junkyard block then compression numbers and a good visual check of the valve train is all you need to do. Don't pull the heads! You don't get good compression without good pistons, rings, and cylinder walls. Those numbers will tell you everything you need to know. I would pull and reseal the oil pan and change all the plug orings on the fuel and oil rails. I would also pull the intake and exhaust manifolds and reseal and gasket them.

If you even think you are going to want to make power with it later on then you should go ahead and do studs, springs and pushrods now as it is much easier on a stand.

 

[Hotrodtractor]

I didn't see anyone ask the OP for what his long term goals and plans were. How can we make good recommendations without knowing the end result that we are all shooting for?

 

[Arisley]

I didn't see anyone ask the OP for what his long term goals and plans were. How can we make good recommendations without knowing the end result that we are all shooting for?

We are all shooting for that ever elusive 1000RWHP on a bone stock bottom end. And be a daily driver able to tow.

 

[Hotrodtractor]

We are all shooting for that ever elusive 1000RWHP on a bone stock bottom end. And be a daily driver able to tow.

Awesome. That involves a fuel injection system swap. :swordfight:

 

[V-Ref]

What about stacks for mpgs? That should help out the EGTs from using the 1000 hp while towing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKvtM15qm6Y&feature=related

 

[TARM]

That damn thing looks like two pieces of industrial duct work the just stood on end in the truck bed LOL

 

[josh.williams506]

Sorry for the extremely late reply, I've been busy for quite awhile.
Long term plans as of now are reliability and longevity. I have decided to just leave the PMR's for now and shoot for 375-400. If I get the job I'm shooting for this Sept, I'm going to save up a down payment for a 6.0 or 6.4, (everybody tells me get a duramax or cummins, but I like my fords). Once I have a secondary truck, I want to turn the 7.3 into a self sustainable expedition type rig. As of now though, I'm shooting for 375-400 with as much reliabilty as possible for towing/dd/stop light drags. I don't tow often but when I do it's generally a fair amount of weight.

I have swamps tunes, 6637 intake, 4in exhaust, ww, and a southbend clutch
I'm thinking 250/200 injectors or 200/200's and have them detuned, an s366, regulated return, valves and pushrods.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Also to stack or not to stack? I've been contemplating an 8in offset mitre.

 

[PowerstrokeJunkie]

I have a forged rod engine for sale with 250/100s, pushrods and valve springs, studs, irate t4 mount, balanced forged rod bottom end with new bearings, total of 115k miles on the engine. 500hp capable. add your fuel system and turbo you have 450-500 reliable hp. PM me

 

[97stoker350]

I wouldn't count on 250/200s being nice to pmrs

 

[smokinstroker92]

I would stay away from the 200% nozzles on pmrs. Yes they van be detuned but the resolution of the 100 or 80 would be better and easier to tune and still would have enough fuel to blow your motor up

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