Got a wierd one for you guys!

20007.3stroker

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Well took some time away from the truck, since it was acting up last fall. Didnt wanna get pissed and sell it for less than its worth.

Well back round last fall, if I tryed to go anywhere the truck would fall on its face and barely run. Ran a scanner on it then and no codes everything was just about right. Oil change and a known good ipr later no better. Parked it til I could think clearer and it be a little warmer!! Fast forward to last week, got everything prepped to fire it up agian and figure out whats up. Other than white smoke its running great. I cant get it to act up, Ive been thinking injector orings but figured I see what you all think.

I swapped two injectors last fall hoping some things would follow and no luck, but I did take a pic of the 2 while I had them out.

IMG_20111113_110412.jpg
 

20007.3stroker

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Had a decent reply typed out but something went wrong:mad: Oh well!!

Golfer sorry your right I just re-read my first post and I never really did ask a question. I guess what I really need to know is what would cause bad/barely running in the fall and come spring other than the smoke its running fine. The smoke mainly only happens like a light haze at idle and a good puff on take off. The exhaust even before the running problem had a slightly stronger hint of raw fuel smell. It just kills me that when we had it on the Solus it passed the buzz and contribution tests just fine. This things just got me flustered.

JL is doesnt show any of the other typical signs of cracked cups.
 

AirFishAutomotive

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Had a decent reply typed out but something went wrong:mad: Oh well!!

Golfer sorry your right I just re-read my first post and I never really did ask a question. I guess what I really need to know is what would cause bad/barely running in the fall and come spring other than the smoke its running fine. The smoke mainly only happens like a light haze at idle and a good puff on take off. The exhaust even before the running problem had a slightly stronger hint of raw fuel smell. It just kills me that when we had it on the Solus it passed the buzz and contribution tests just fine. This things just got me flustered.

JL is doesnt show any of the other typical signs of cracked cups.

The solus basically told you the connection is good through the buzz test. Imho the only true way to tell if a Injector is bad is having it flowed. Reason I say that is because we put a solid on a 6.0 and it had all the signs of the bad Injector. Run it down the highway and none of the parameters were undeseriable. Take out the suspected bad Injector...and long and behold switching the Injector fixed the issue.
jmho
 

TARM

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You need to give more info;

How many miles on this engine?

Is it all stock?


As its not a big issue to do why not pull all the injectors check and replace the orings

I am assuming you have done a buzz and contribution test and it all passed as you siad everything was good.
 

20007.3stroker

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Decided to revive this even though Im coming to the conclusion its possibly 1 or more injectors going bad. To answer the questions you asked there in june Tarm the truck has about 280000 miles on it, all stock except for a AFE stage 1 setup and straight piped exhaust.

I had to drive it after I posted this thread originally, while I waited for a new clutch master cylinder for my car to come in. While I was driving it ( only a couple of miles to work and back otherwise I wouldnt have tryed) for the most part it ran good other than the white has that has a heavy diesel smell. There were 2 mornings that it did act up on the way to work. It couldnt maintain a decent speed and sounded like it was gonna die when I let off. Got to work, ran in and grabbed the Solus. Unfortunately the info I got, I had texted to Steve(Genuineford) and that phone later had an issue and had to be replaced. So I dont have the exact info. But I do remember that when I ran a buzz test some of the injectors(mainly passenger side) failed. Went for a short trip to watch things and the duty cycle never really got above 50% and the highest icp pressure was 2800-2900 at WOT. By this time it was running better too, but still the white haze.

So to date Ive shimmed the UVCH with cut down quarters, known good IPR, ran many test with varying results, and when this all started did an oil change. Id like to if I can get the truck running right before the snow flys as my Tbird sucks in the snow!!! Anymore help would be great!
 

golfer

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Run a compression test on the engine prior to throwing any parts at it.
 

20007.3stroker

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No not yet, haven't had much time to mess with it. Not to mention I'm still trying to get a diesel compression gauge to verify that its not compression issues to go with golfer's suggestion. It just runs to good when its not acting up to be compression i think. But i could be wrong so I'll check it.
 

SPEEDDEMON31176

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If you had a compression issue such as a hole in a piston or bad rings, they would always be a problem. They wouldn't come and go. A compression test is a good idea though just to get base line numbers and piece of mind.
 

85_305

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^But low compression symptoms change between hot/cold weather and hot/cold engine temp.
 

neverkickn

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Did I understand you correctly that even when it is running good you still have white smoke?
 

neverkickn

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If you have unburnt fuel smoke then I would be looking at compression no matter how much it seems to improve.
 

20007.3stroker

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Well finally feel like Im getting somewhere, figured since I finally hit the part of my auto tech training that pertains to my issues Im gonna take advantage of the tools that my tuition is partially paying for. Ive got it up at school all prepped for compression testing. I also have access to other tools like a ford IDS. Along with one of my instructors being an ex ford employee that did work on diesels. Hopefully have some answers soon. I did get to test #1 before I had to leave today and its healthy at somewhere over 400, dont remember the exact # right now though.
 

20007.3stroker

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Also forgot to mention last night that I decided I had just enough time to do a buzz test which I repeated a few times just to be sure. Each time the IDS just gave me a fail, nothing else. Didnt have time to investigate why, but atleast 2 of the injectors only buzzed about half as loud as the others.
 

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