Greetings!

SgtRauksauff

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Greetings from Wisconsin!

So, I live in Wisconsin, aka the Rust Belt, and bought a car in Portland OR to revive my race car.

Needing a new-to-me tow vehicle anyways, I scanned Craigslist, and started making calls/texts/emails. I originally wanted a 2wd, and found a perfectly maintaned '95/7.3/Auto fleet vehicle, but whoever answered the phone was kind of a dick and wouldn't spend 10 minutes on a Saturday morning to sell me his vehicle. The second choice was a '98 Ram 2500 / cummins/manual/2wd, but he was out of town for the weekend, so it came down to door number three: a '96 F250, Extended Cab, 4x4, 7.3, 5-speed. I guess I could live with a 4x4. Called the guy, and he even picked me up at the airport in the truck so I didn't even have to get a cab to get to his house.

So, after a 2000+ mile drive, and some excitement with passenger steer-tire issues (first one separated in Utah at the end of day one, leaving a huge bulge in the tire, and then the spare exploded in Des Moines rush hour the morning of day 3), I figure I'd register here and start learning what I need to do with this truck to keep it solid and prevent any future calamity.

The previous owner seemed nice, but rather lacking in mechanical knowledge, so who knows what he did or did not service or paid to have serviced.

I'm pretty sure I need rear shoes, with an e-brake adjustment at minimum. when it was going on the flatbed after the blowout, some fluid was leaking from the right-hand frame rail. not strong smelling, and not tasting of anything much either, so I'm hoping just dripping from a water separator or something?

I'll be putting new tires on all around, (235-85-16 10-ply Toyos) so that will get the speedo correct again, although make it look like I'm running on pizza cutters. once that's done, I'll determine if the slight shake/vibration is from unbalanced tires, or if there's a u-joint starting to go bad.

Gonna do an oil/filter/fluids change all around, probably including diffs, transmission and xfer case, I'll be able to check the drained fluid and make sure everything's good.

I'll start browsing and reading and learning, but since I'm already typing a book:

3rd-to-2nd downshifts seem a bit ridiculous, needing double-clutching even at low speeds in town, especially coming up to intersections. Is this because of mishandled gear changes in the past, and worn synchros, or is this just the nature of the beast?

I was under the impression that these had a solid front axle, but I was obviously wrong. I'm going to have to do some research and see just what I've got and any weaknesses it might have.

I'm guessing that since the truck's basically 20 years old, I'm going to have to go through the bushings, and maybe even new shocks. i noticed in the rear that the lower straight leaf is not necessarily perfectly parallel with the other leaves, which makes me think that this may have been curb-checked or something in the past.

But other than a few annoyances (mostly being due to a 20-year-old truck), I like it so far. Strong motor, decent transmission, handles ok (hopefully the Toyo's wont make it all squirmy).

Put the cruise at 80, and get mid to high 14mpg on average so far:
From Portland (first fillup) to Boise ID, 15.06.
then at Tremonton OR, I got 13.9,
then at Little America in WY it showed 19.4,
then at Laramie it was 17.5,
then Kearney NE showed 14.8, (split a bottle of Diesel Kleen between both tanks at this fillup)
then 14.3 at Grinnell IA. Still haven't filled up after getting back home, but I think the rear tank has either half or quarter tank still left, and over 225 miles on the first tank, so probably pretty good.

Granted, each time I filled up, I was getting more familiar and comfortable with the truck, so I'd run it up harder, and drove more aggressively, with a few 85+mph WOT passes thrown in. Even though the speed limit was 80 in a few states, I generally kept it at 78mph/~2500rpm. Faster than the semis, faster than all the other uhaul/penske/RVs, slower than the chargers/mustangs/vettes.

I'm sure that the fuel mix has something to do with mpg as well, at least it does with gasoline. In my experience, the Midwest seems to have absolutely awful fuel mixes that get crap mileage compared to other regions.

Anyways, that's my introduction, hopefully this will be a great repository of knowledge for me!

Stopped for food/coffee in Tremonton:
20151010_153013_zpsxa062sij.jpg


Bad luck outta Des Moines:
20151012_115432_zpsfiimn3k1.jpg



--sarge
(no military affiliation, it's a holdover from LAN party PC gaming days from ~15+ years ago)
 
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Pstrke96

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Looks like a decent rig I have a 96 they are tanks. Welcome to PSA this place is FULL of great info and ppl alike. I run the same size toyo's in At2 they last forever and are pretty good in most terrain snow and mud included. Don't be afraid to read here and ask what you don't find on your own. How many miles on her anyway? Good luck and welcome
 

SgtRauksauff

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I was going to type the mileage, then I forgot. Just tripped over 263,000 a few hours from getting home. Finally broken in!

--sarge
 

superpsd

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At 300k my ZF5 is starting to grind as well. Didn't start grinding until I changed the old fluid that had been in there who knows how long. The ZF5 is a bullet proof transmission but like everything else in this world it wears out. You may still have a Dual Mass Flywheel if you ever need a new clutch or get the DMF rattle switch to a single mass. Also no 250s do not have a solid axle. Yours has a TTB as I can see in the pictures. 14 mpg seems a little low for the highway. I have the same rig just with the longer bed with 3.55 gears I see 18-20 hwy
 
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SgtRauksauff

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I'm in the Baraboo area.
If I double clutch and blip the throttle, I can downshift into 2nd just fine about 85% of the time. Probably a synchro rebuild at some time in the future is in order.

14mpg might be a little low, but it seemed ok at the time.. I think part of it was super-strong sidewinds, and even headwinds at times, as well as some unknown-at-the-time fuel leaks. But still, 14.5mpg at ~80mph/2500rpm seems pretty good to me!

So far though, a few things fixed:

flasher relay. turn signals work again, yay!
Changed the oil (Rotella T6 5w40) and filter (Motocraft).
WIX air filter
Microguard fuel filter (they were out of the WIX at the time)
new glow plugs. a couple tested out of spec, so I just replaced all of them. $11 each from Oreilly's for Motocraft ZD-11's was worth it.
new wipers.
new batteries (wal-mart, but 5-year warrantee no-questions-asked at pretty much anywhere in the country 24/7 is worth it.)
new front shocks (one was rattling and done, the other was close behind.)

Things to do:
found a small tear on the original orange intake hose to the turbo. It's under the clamp, right at the very end, and not really leaking, but I ordered the replacement piece from DieselOrings.com to be safe.
Also rdered an o-ring kit for the complete fuel bowl setup. got some leaks, from under the FPR filter plate, so I'll just put all new everywhere. That engine valley looks like the Exxon Valdez has been through there.
I also have a 1.4v drop between the GPR terminals, so I ordered the big daddy Stancor as well.
I got the appropriate fuel hose locally.

Will be ordering the TYC 106669 starter from RockAuto, the offset gear-reduction piece for the 2001+ SD, then rebuild the original (new brushes, etc.) for a spare.

Oh, put the less-than-a-thousand mile Toyo Open Country H/T Tuff Duty tires on, and balanced them.

And realized that the outer u-joints on the front have basically zero needles inside the cups, lol.

--sarge
 

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