LETS SEE THOSE EXCURSIONS!!!!

SkySki Jason

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Jason, how well does it tow your toy hauler? Do you know the weight when you have it loaded up? I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a 30' toy hauler. Do you have airbags in the rear?

Well, lets just say there is still lots of room for improvement. Its predictable and manageable - but I'm not really comfortable yet.

The only time I've been over the scales, my GCVW was just over 20k lbs, but that was not fully loaded. The trailer's GWR is 13k...

The rear is stock, I have v-codes up front and MX6 shocks all around. Plan to install modded b-codes, Hellwig sway bar, Landyot Radius Rods ASAP. Air bags if necessary, but should not be needed. I will also be using a Hensley or ProPride hitch.

The biggest problem I have to attempt to overcome is this trailer is 37ft tip to tail! Thats just alot of leverage on the short X wheelbase... I am confident you could set up your X to comfortably pull a 30ft TT. :thumbup:
 

Homesteader

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Here is ours, White one..My spring mods and 35" on 20"
A customers same but on 33" on 20"

Hey Carry those are some nice looking ex's there. Hopefully some day I can find a ex and get it to look like those.
 

freddie

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Lots of nice Excursions in this thread. Its tempting to buy one as my next vehicle. :D
 

TARM

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Jason do not do the landyots.its nit needed and will bind your spiring travel. They are short trac bars basically.

Put the rear SD SWAY OR HELWIG AND MODED B codes. Another huge thing is the tirs and wheels. The X being a short wheel base realy gains stability from a larger and wide foot print on the ground. 33x12.5 eother a 18 or 20 wheel that 10 wide 4.5 back spacing. You then swap out the shocks for some of OBSWIZ (Cary's) custom valved blistiens 5100 series and you will notice a night and day dif.

Then hook up that toy trailer fully loaded to your max combine gvw and see how it sits. If you need it to be pedfecrly level or it squats more than you like add the air bags.

If you end up adding enough power or larger tires then add a set of real traction bars like One up Offroads etc..
 

TARM

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Working on it. The pump is here FINALLY and I got the extra fittings I needed. I think it should be fired back up tomorrow. The engine mods really hung everything up as it fell right before a few weeks of travel. It is sonfrustrating as I have EVERYTHING just sitting here for everything else. But things are rolling now. I wil be gettinf the flares and lift on as soon as get a few drives in with the engine mods. A front end alignment and then mount the 40s (figured the alignment shop would not be happy or able to do the job if the 40s were on there)

I promise to get pics and videos up as soon as the wheels are mounted. But this thing will likely be a never ending project. Its my hobby really. After all isn't that what you call something you sink tons of money you will never ger backout into that at the same time gets you to make up new profaine words as at every turn as it continually frustrates you with each step. Sounds like a hobby to me. LOL
 

SkySki Jason

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Jason do not do the landyots.its nit needed and will bind your spiring travel. They are short trac bars basically.

Put the rear SD SWAY OR HELWIG AND MODED B codes. Another huge thing is the tirs and wheels. The X being a short wheel base realy gains stability from a larger and wide foot print on the ground. 33x12.5 eother a 18 or 20 wheel that 10 wide 4.5 back spacing. You then swap out the shocks for some of OBSWIZ (Cary's) custom valved blistiens 5100 series and you will notice a night and day dif.

Then hook up that toy trailer fully loaded to your max combine gvw and see how it sits. If you need it to be pedfecrly level or it squats more than you like add the air bags.

If you end up adding enough power or larger tires then add a set of real traction bars like One up Offroads etc..

Thanks for the advice. I had 33x12.50x18's (325/60/18's) on there for the last 40k or so and decided the 285/75/16 Dura Grappler's were probably a more practical tire for the amount of miles I drive...

My current plan is to install the Hellwig I already have, then modded b-codes and see where its at. The plan is for more power. :D Looking at at least 238/100's and a big charger, with studs, springs, etc. :thumbup:
 

SkySki Jason

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Might as well do 250/200s, they are the same price.


That's what I'm thinking, especially after reading this:

In my experience, pull pw, pull pw, pull pw. When I really got the 200's running good coming from programs for my 30%'s I had but a fraction of the pw I started with. The more duration I pulled, the quicker and crisper they got. It would eventualy spin the tires just stabbing the throttle from a stop. Just like, stab it and they spin. As I said... big block gasser sh*t. This is obviously with 0lbs of boost.

And if you want a longer duration, pull ICP. A 200 can stretch it out just as far as an 80 if you want. There's nothing that says you can't slow down a fast nozzle if you feel the need.

In fact, on the 200's I used to purposefully keep ICP in check and let it come up slowly with rpm because the truck was too crisp and harsh if I gave it too much ICP too quickly. Felt like it was trying to tear itself apart, even with very little timing.

For me, the 200's wanted moderate ICP and moderate timing and very little pw and just let them do their thing.
 

Super 6.0

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ok second time is the charm
 

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norcaldiesel

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Here is a month old shot in Moab Utah. I have Wheels and Tires going on soon and when I have some down time I have some motor mods..

I am planning on doing new carpeting this spring.. I was thinking of deleting the rear carpeting in favor of flat steel diamond plating or something similar. Could always put carpeting back in.
 

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