Low boost, high EGT's, not much power.

[Enoch]

I've been trying to figure this out for a while. At first I thought it was the boost leak I had but fixed that and actually got worse.
Me and a friend changed the pedestal o-rings when we fixed the exhaust plenum boost leak
in which the guy helping me said that one of those clips on the exhaust side of the turbo got bent somehow during the process and that one side wasn't hooked in all the way.
Power just seems like it's being blocked, or it's not breathing.
Could the EBPV be getting stuck in the almost closed position or just not opening up all the way due to that clip being bent and not on all the way?

Truck has the 38r, 6637 Air Filter, HPX, and 4" Magnaflow turbo back exhaust and an SCT tuner.

When I accelerate the EGT's go up super fast, boost is low and although I pick up speed it's not as quick as it should be.

When towing my trailer (Maybe 3k ilbs or a little over) even the slightest incline the truck falls on it's face and I try and accelerate and just doesn't seem to speed up but the EGT's climb quick. As well as it shifts through the gears way too fast, which it always has since trans rebuild.
I got on it on then way home today to see where everything was at.

My EGT's climbed to 1,300* real quick and it pulled a whole 8-9lbs of boost and maybe hit 50mph.

Text my old mechanic, who put the 38r on and rebuilt the trans twice and he said it sounds like a possible speed sensor??

When people switch to the 38r, does anyone do anything to the exhaust side of the turbo? Sorry not sure what it's called but it's the exhaust side that is rusted.

Could high EGT's, low boost, low power be due to the EBPV stuck?
Could it be shifting through the gears too fast be due to speed sensor?

Thanks

 

[ghohouston]

Can you hear the ebpv activating? You can separate the downpipe from the turbo and see if the valve is stuck shut. Ever cleaned ebps and tube? There's quite a few things that could be the problem. Have you scanned for codes?

 

[ghohouston]

And what exactly are you talking about on the exhaust side of the turbo that was "bent"?

 

[Enoch]

Can you hear the ebpv activating? You can separate the downpipe from the turbo and see if the valve is stuck shut. Ever cleaned ebps and tube? There's quite a few things that could be the problem. Have you scanned for codes?

Not anymore and no never cleaned the ebps or tube, but will be on my list now.

And what exactly are you talking about on the exhaust side of the turbo that was "bent"?

I meant the clip, he said there was a clip and it got bent and wasn't in all the way.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Not anymore and no never cleaned the ebps or tube, but will be on my list now.



I meant the clip, he said there was a clip and it got bent and wasn't in all the way.

prolly the c clip that holds the ebpv actuator rod on the arm of the ebpv.. if that clip fell off and came unhooked then your ebpv is closed. look under the turbo and see if the rod is dangling and not on anything... it will sound super loud and have a loud his to it if that is the case..

live life full throttle

 

[Enoch]

prolly the c clip that holds the ebpv actuator rod on the arm of the ebpv.. if that clip fell off and came unhooked then your ebpv is closed. look under the turbo and see if the rod is dangling and not on anything... it will sound super loud and have a loud his to it if that is the case..

live life full throttle

Thank you, that's the clip I was talking about. And all that you said is probably exactly what happened.
I'll check that tomorrow, I appreciate it!

 

[ja_cain]

Thank you, that's the clip I was talking about. And all that you said is probably exactly what happened.
I'll check that tomorrow, I appreciate it!

This is why I like having Torque App. I can look at ebp and see if that valve is acting screwy. The apps they have for these phones are extremely helpful for things like this and have very small initial investment. For exampl, I used Cargauge Pro to perform a buzz test yesterday and found that injector 4 was shorting out. Checked the harness coming from the idm on the driver side and sure enough the ground wire that goes to injector 4 was exposed and grounding on the valve cover. Truck runs smooth now and no code when performing buzz test. App probably cost me 5 bucks. Can't beat that chit.

 

[lincolnlocker]

This is why I like having Torque App. I can look at ebp and see if that valve is acting screwy. The apps they have for these phones are extremely helpful for things like this and have very small initial investment. For exampl, I used Cargauge Pro to perform a buzz test yesterday and found that injector 4 was shorting out. Checked the harness coming from the idm on the driver side and sure enough the ground wire that goes to injector 4 was exposed and grounding on the valve cover. Truck runs smooth now and no code when performing buzz test. App probably cost me 5 bucks. Can't beat that chit.

thats freekin cool... buuuuuttt if the ebps tube is plugged it will read all screwy also or if the sensor is messed up.... so yes, you can see a problem but it wont have anything to do with the valve...

my cheap amazon.com connector only works on the 6.7... wont connect to my other trucks.

live life full throttle

 

[ja_cain]

thats freekin cool... buuuuuttt if the ebps tube is plugged it will read all screwy also or if the sensor is messed up.... so yes, you can see a problem but it wont have anything to do with the valve...

my cheap amazon.com connector only works on the 6.7... wont connect to my other trucks.

live life full throttle

You are correct but if you familiarize yourself with the normal pressures and sounds while it is working (valve) you will be able to pick up on it real quick when it's misbehaving. No or little pressure change in cold weather with no hissing sound probably means plugged tube/sensor.

I am going to try to do a writeup on the injector issue I was having if I have a chance today. The app is a pain, initially, to use but once you have it figured out its not too bad. Plus, it will pull/clear codes on the 7.3 unlike Torque.

That sucks the one you have won't work on your 7.3 trucks.

 

[lincolnlocker]

You are correct but if you familiarize yourself with the normal pressures and sounds while it is working (valve) you will be able to pick up on it real quick when it's misbehaving. No or little pressure change in cold weather with no hissing sound probably means plugged tube/sensor.

I am going to try to do a writeup on the injector issue I was having if I have a chance today. The app is a pain, initially, to use but once you have it figured out its not too bad. Plus, it will pull/clear codes on the 7.3 unlike Torque.

That sucks the one you have won't work on your 7.3 trucks.

agreed.


it does suck but thats why i have an OTC Genysis scanner... it has paid for istself many times over.. only good for 2007 model years and older though..

live life full throttle

 

[ja_cain]

agreed.


it does suck but thats why i have an OTC Genysis scanner... it has paid for istself many times over.. only good for 2007 model years and older though..

live life full throttle

That's cool. Never looked at the otc scanners. So far, knock on wood, my adapter has worked on every car I have tried it on. It can act a little screwy sometimes, but if you mess with the protocols and baud rates you can usually get it to work. I had to do that on a dmax my buddy was looking at and once I lowered the baud rate it worked fine.

 

[lincolnlocker]

That's cool. Never looked at the otc scanners. So far, knock on wood, my adapter has worked on every car I have tried it on. It can act a little screwy sometimes, but if you mess with the protocols and baud rates you can usually get it to work. I had to do that on a dmax my buddy was looking at and once I lowered the baud rate it worked fine.

English dude, English...

live life full throttle

 

[ja_cain]

Sorry Protocol is just the way/format that the adapter communicates with the type of digital modulation that the pcm outputs. The baud rate is the speed or clock rate that it uses. Some times the cheaper adapters have a hard time syncing or handshaking. If they do connect at the higher rate the communicaton is flakey/inconsistent/unstable. It's like back in the day when 14.4 modems first came out. There were some cheaper modems (Zoom) that weren't real good at synching at the higher speeds like say a true Hayes. Sometimes it help to just lock them at a lower connection rate and specifically pick a specific compression protocol. Anyway, that's all dorky stone age stuff. Lol

 

[ghohouston]

agreed.


it does suck but thats why i have an OTC Genysis scanner... it has paid for istself many times over.. only good for 2007 model years and older though..

live life full throttle

That's the same scanner I have, I like it a lot. I need a new obd2 cord though, any idea where to get one?