New problem

Turbosuzuki · Dec 10, 2016

Thanks guys I have become very sick give me a couple days and I will try to get it squared. Thanks again for the help

Turbosuzuki · Dec 16, 2016

OK sorry about the delay. I found the problem it was leaking out the drain tube. I opened and closed the valve and it stopped. That wasn't bad at all I guess I lucked out on that one.

ja_cain · Dec 18, 2016

Based on my experience, these guys have provided you with all the right info. Get a tender model that you can hardwire into the truck. Then its super easy to just plug it in if you arn't going to drive it for a while. Always keep a dmm in the truck with long leads and alligator clips on the end. That way you can set it against the windshield and observe the voltage as you turn it over. Torque (or equivalent) will output system voltage, but have not actually verified it against a dmm hooked to a battery. My hard start problems last winter were from a weak starter. Starters take 15 to 20 minutes to swap out on these trucks. I bought one with a lifetime warranty and had my old one rebuilt as an emergency spare. Good cables and adding an actual ground to the starter are also good things to do. These trucks normally have self grounding units and I'm sure the mating surfaces can get corroded enough to effect current flow.

I would go ahead and order the bowl drain and orings from Riff Raff or Diesel Orings and replace them. It's just a matter of time before it starts leaking again. I went with the upgraded ptfe coated orings like someone suggested.

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psduser1 · Dec 18, 2016

ja_cain said:
Based on my experience, these guys have provided you with all the right info. Get a tender model that you can hardwire into the truck. Then its super easy to just plug it in if you arn't going to drive it for a while. Always keep a dmm in the truck with long leads and alligator clips on the end. That way you can set it against the windshield and observe the voltage as you turn it over. Torque (or equivalent) will output system voltage, but have not actually verified it against a dmm hooked to a battery. My hard start problems last winter were from a weak starter. Starters take 15 to 20 minutes to swap out on these trucks. I bought one with a lifetime warranty and had my old one rebuilt as an emergency spare. Good cables and adding an actual ground to the starter are also good things to do. These trucks normally have self grounding units and I'm sure the mating surfaces can get corroded enough to effect current flow.

I would go ahead and order the bowl drain and orings from Riff Raff or Diesel Orings and replace them. It's just a matter of time before it starts leaking again. I went with the upgraded ptfe coated orings like someone suggested.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Accurate.
However, a fuel bowl ****** and it'll never be a problem again, lol.
As a bonus, your filter changes are half the cost and time.

lincolnlocker · Dec 18, 2016

psduser1 said:
Accurate.
However, a fuel bowl ****** and it'll never be a problem again, lol.
As a bonus, your filter changes are half the cost and time.

yeahno doubt.. it pays for itself in no time if you build it yourself..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Turbosuzuki · Dec 25, 2016

ja_cain said:
Based on my experience, these guys have provided you with all the right info. Get a tender model that you can hardwire into the truck. Then its super easy to just plug it in if you arn't going to drive it for a while. Always keep a dmm in the truck with long leads and alligator clips on the end. That way you can set it against the windshield and observe the voltage as you turn it over. Torque (or equivalent) will output system voltage, but have not actually verified it against a dmm hooked to a battery. My hard start problems last winter were from a weak starter. Starters take 15 to 20 minutes to swap out on these trucks. I bought one with a lifetime warranty and had my old one rebuilt as an emergency spare. Good cables and adding an actual ground to the starter are also good things to do. These trucks normally have self grounding units and I'm sure the mating surfaces can get corroded enough to effect current flow.

I would go ahead and order the bowl drain and orings from Riff Raff or Diesel Orings and replace them. It's just a matter of time before it starts leaking again. I went with the upgraded ptfe coated orings like someone suggested.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Got me a battery tender not long ago.