OBS U-joint discussion

JD3020

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The time is here to re-build my driveline, from front to rear. I'm going with non-greasable Spicers, but i seem to be getting some confusion on sizes. I've had some people say 1310, some say 1350, and briefly talked to a local shop that said some trucks have 1410's. And unless i'm missing a post somewhere, there isn't a ton of info out there on our u-joints.

So, what sizes are all the joints?
 

907DAVE

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Can you provide some measurements. Cap size and distance between opposing caps. Internal or external snap ring?
 

JD3020

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I don't have a caliper to get accurate measurements, but i may be able to try with a tape later. Its all factory stuff AFAIK, appears to be the original 207k mile joints. Although they are amazing me at how well they hold up to abuse, as i have yet to pop one.
 

chromehound

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My best advice would be to take one in when you get them. The ones I was given for my '96 (non Spicers) were right by the stores computer but were to long - I played hell getting the right ones, ended up going through 3 places before somebody had them and measuring with my calipers everyone they gave me until I found them. Wasted about 6 hours doing it. Only vehicle I've owned that had this happen.
 

JD3020

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Thats what i'm expecting. Although it shouldn't be that difficult as i don't think Ford changed anything up with the joints.

I may just try to get to a driveline shop and see how hard they'll rape me to do it all, or may just have them measure/order the parts for me. I just don't want to rip everything out and then find out i've got the wrong stuff.
 

FrankTheTank

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They are 1350 joints on your truck (for the d-shafts). get the greaseable spicers, nothing non serviceable is a good idea, the 1310 joints came on the I6 f250 trucks. Atleast thats where ive seen them. And the 1410 joints are superduty joints.

i would remove your driveshaft and drop it off at a drive line shop to press in the joints as they usually dont charge much to press them in.
 

JD3020

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I see no reason to go with a greaseable one. One big thing is a non-greaseable joint is solid, and stronger. I'm going after strength. Plus non-greaseable joints will last plenty long.
 

OBS Boysel

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I just took the drive shafts out and took them to Drive line 1 in Columbus. They had them done in the same day, but I cant remember how much it cost. Sorry.
 

FrankTheTank

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Jimmy, i dont think u need to worry about the strength of a serviceable u-joint with just stage 2s.. that little hole in the center will make it a trouble free driveline for years. If u drive thru some deep water with regualr u-joint they will fail, just a matter of time.
 

m j

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usually 1330F (its a ford version of a 1330 with caps 1/16 bigger then a normal 1330) for the front and 1350 for the rear
 

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JD3020

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usually 1330F (its a ford version of a 1330 with caps 1/16 bigger then a normal 1330) for the front and 1350 for the rear

That diagram is what i was looking for. Thanks!

Stopped in at Ford the other day, my cost(i get a good discount) is $40 a pop for the front joints, and $45 for the rear. :jawdrop: Gonna call around to some driveline shops today and get prices from local places.
 

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