Ported intake manifold?

Vinny07psd

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Well that's the name of the game, I want power but I want to get it efficiently with the lowest egt possible
 

jdgleason

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Well that's the name of the game, I want power but I want to get it efficiently with the lowest egt possible

Ported manifolds do a great job of tying the build together. If you get a chance, check out the inside of a stock one and see exactly why they are a restriction.
 

HeavyAssault

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This:
27906-another-mad-mod-6.0-powerstroke-manifold-003.jpg


Or this:
photo.jpg



Whatever brand you choose a ported intake will make a difference.
 

Jeremysmith9902

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if you arent in a horrible rush, i have my mechanic doing a base line, then intalling a ported manifold from Dr. Diesel and then another after installing a billet wheel.
 

hawgdoctor

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if you arent in a horrible rush, i have my mechanic doing a base line, then intalling a ported manifold from Dr. Diesel and then another after installing a billet wheel.
No offense, but that is not a true ported manifold. It is a modified one at best. There is still a whole lot of restriction inside that he doesn't remove. The Elite, and Apex however will be your two highest flowing options to see the biggest benefits from.
 

Pizza pig

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that and the one that was supposed to go on a buddies truck is warped to ****.
 

hawgdoctor

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So is the only purpose of a ported/modded intake to allow for more flow to the rear cylinders?

That, and a whole lot more balanced flow which is where you see the big drop in egt's, and a bump in hp, and tourqe. A motor is nothing but an air pump. The more efficient you make it in every way the better it will perform.
 

vcassens

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For those that have built these would you be willing to post pics of what you use to keep them from warping? Like do you bolt it to a metal plate and if so how is it bolted to the plate?
 

Jeremysmith9902

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you should be able to make a jig that it can be bolted to once the top is cut off or bungs drilled out.. and then spot weld the new bungs and top back on.. so they dont get over heated and warp
 

windrunner408

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I bolt the ones I build to a jig that is an exact replica of the motor (also serves as my pressure plate for pressure testing the manifold). It has every hole that the heads do for the intake manifold. The key to getting these things to not warp is all in how fast you try to weld them up. Going fast for a long stretch of bead with the heat will warp the **** out of it no matter what you have it bolted to even if you keep it bolted down until cool.
 

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