TrailerHauler
New member
The engine bay looks ten times better than before! :thumbsup:
Project: Reliability - Its 6.0 Delete Time
- Thread starter Matt_P
- Start date
Thanks Eric! I agree this 6.0 looks much better sitting in there than the other one
jdc753
New member
:WHS:
It would be hard for 90% of people to even think that wasn't stock, looks great!!
glad to see it finally on the road too, hopefully many enjoyable miles before the next truck arrives LOL
Thanks Josh! I did my best to make it look like it belonged there, I think Ill hang on to it for a while LOL
TRUBBS
Member
Key word- THINK.... Lol
haha this is very true
Another quick update:
Ive just been doing some finishing touches on the truck as I go, I work on it a little almost every day. I had to put new upper and lower balljoints on the truck last week, not surprising with 195k miles on the truck. I think its needing wheel bearings too though, no big deal, thats easy enough. I readjusted my valves yesterday, I had a good oil leak coming out the back of the engine too, I thought the rear main didnt seal. Turns out that one of the times I pulled the valve cover off the gasket didnt seat right and go bent on the back of the engine. I fixed that and no more oil leak. The hot IC pipe had a couple small holes in the welds so I pulled that off and welded those closed. Just small things like that.
Ive also been spending a lot more time tuning the pump. I adjusted my preboost or "smoke screw" back to the point that its almost smoke free driving around town. The only downside is that since I pulled a lot of fuel out in doing so, its laggy til 10psi but it doesnt take too long to get there. I also cant spool it up by brake torquing it quickly at all but thats a simple adjustment of a screw.
I also adjusted the starwheel some more so its waits til closer to 50psi to full fuel. I moved the fuel plate to about the middle as well about two weeks ago. This made it so that once I hit 10psi and the turbo lit it would leave a decent cloud if I lay into but then clear up immediately all the way to 45psi.
The only issue was that it was really lacking at the top end, it had good power there, but between 3/4-full throttle didnt feel any different. After doing more research I saw that a lot of people who spend time properly tuning an AFC really have no use for a fuel plate except to restrict full fueling. So yesterday I decided to pull the fuel plate out and see what happens. I took it out for a drive and acted the same as before to 3/4 throttle so obviously a fuel plate isnt necessary any more in that aspect. Then I layed into it full throttle and WOW there was where the fuel plate was screwing me over.
It immediately smacked 55-57 psi of boost and pulled hard. The only problem was it really full fueled then, it went from the turbo cleaning up the smoke to the exact opposite, its just thick smoke at full fuel. It also pegged the pyro so I had to let out.
My only complaint with the truck still is my crusing egts. Going 60-70 MPH it sits between 900-1000 degrees no matter what I change on the pump. The only thing I havent changed is timing yet, I dunno if that might take care of the issue or not.
I think today though Im going to cut the plate to a 0 and put it full forward to restrict full fueling some. Then maybe try a governor spring or something stiffer for an AFC spring to help restrict full fuel and I can adjust tension with starwheel accordingly. I have the AFC set full forward as well, I tried it back halfway and it had zero power on the low end.
Ive just been doing some finishing touches on the truck as I go, I work on it a little almost every day. I had to put new upper and lower balljoints on the truck last week, not surprising with 195k miles on the truck. I think its needing wheel bearings too though, no big deal, thats easy enough. I readjusted my valves yesterday, I had a good oil leak coming out the back of the engine too, I thought the rear main didnt seal. Turns out that one of the times I pulled the valve cover off the gasket didnt seat right and go bent on the back of the engine. I fixed that and no more oil leak. The hot IC pipe had a couple small holes in the welds so I pulled that off and welded those closed. Just small things like that.
Ive also been spending a lot more time tuning the pump. I adjusted my preboost or "smoke screw" back to the point that its almost smoke free driving around town. The only downside is that since I pulled a lot of fuel out in doing so, its laggy til 10psi but it doesnt take too long to get there. I also cant spool it up by brake torquing it quickly at all but thats a simple adjustment of a screw.
I also adjusted the starwheel some more so its waits til closer to 50psi to full fuel. I moved the fuel plate to about the middle as well about two weeks ago. This made it so that once I hit 10psi and the turbo lit it would leave a decent cloud if I lay into but then clear up immediately all the way to 45psi.
The only issue was that it was really lacking at the top end, it had good power there, but between 3/4-full throttle didnt feel any different. After doing more research I saw that a lot of people who spend time properly tuning an AFC really have no use for a fuel plate except to restrict full fueling. So yesterday I decided to pull the fuel plate out and see what happens. I took it out for a drive and acted the same as before to 3/4 throttle so obviously a fuel plate isnt necessary any more in that aspect. Then I layed into it full throttle and WOW there was where the fuel plate was screwing me over.
It immediately smacked 55-57 psi of boost and pulled hard. The only problem was it really full fueled then, it went from the turbo cleaning up the smoke to the exact opposite, its just thick smoke at full fuel. It also pegged the pyro so I had to let out.
My only complaint with the truck still is my crusing egts. Going 60-70 MPH it sits between 900-1000 degrees no matter what I change on the pump. The only thing I havent changed is timing yet, I dunno if that might take care of the issue or not.
I think today though Im going to cut the plate to a 0 and put it full forward to restrict full fueling some. Then maybe try a governor spring or something stiffer for an AFC spring to help restrict full fuel and I can adjust tension with starwheel accordingly. I have the AFC set full forward as well, I tried it back halfway and it had zero power on the low end.
JDub
Active member
Congrats on getting it up and running and driveable. That's a big job to tackle on your own. Just so I don't have to go through and read it all, what size injectors and turbo did you end up with? Is it the Dodge or 5R trans in it?
Thanks Jacob! yeah it was a ton of work but totally worth it! I have 175hp injectors built by columbus diesel and a 66mm silver bullet from industrial injection. Im running a built 47re behind it that Im controlling with the dodge PCM.
I ground the fuel plate to a zero and put it full forward. Still can bury the pyro at full throttle, still hits 55psi and I scared the **** out of myself doing that about 10 minutes ago and blowing a boot off LOL I just need to figure out this egt issue
Chvyrkr
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Don't remember Matt... Did you do head studs?
SSpeeDEMONSS
New member
A zero plate is the worst to cut. Should have left it stock or gone 100. There is a thread on comp right now where a guy dynoed with a stock fuel plate and did 8xx. Obviously with the proper fuel and air mods. A good grind on the plate and tuned AFC won't take away from full fuel but will significantly help with fueling down low.
Garrett
encrypted with an enigma machine
Garrett
encrypted with an enigma machine
Honestly after tuning my AFC to the way I liked it, the fuel plate made 0 difference. It responded the same when it was cut to a 100 plate down low whether it was full forward, full back, in the middle whatever. Then when I pulled the plate out all together it acted the same way down low. I cut it to a zero and still the same. The only thing its being used for is to limit full fueling. I have my AFC tuned to control the smoke pretty good down low, using the fuel plate made no difference.
Oh yeah I put H-11s in
AKHILF
Member
What size are you thinking?
dirtflinger92
New member
Screw twins go with triples go big or go home LOL
Not exactly sure on a size yet, just want a good quick spooling set of street twins.
haha I dunno if I want to go that crazy!
I was wondering what size twins he had, those sound like they would be about perfect! They light pretty quick dont they? Also do you know what the specs are on the turbos as far as turbine wheels and housings? It sounds like thats the exact setup I need to be going with!
It's nasty how fast they spool. I can get you sizes - they're spec'd out by Chris, both billet from E.D.
Awesome thats why I like to hear brostache! I think Im definitely gonna go with this setup then. If you could get sizes that would be awesome. Then I guess Ill give E.D. a call and see what I would be looking at price wise for the turbos. Luckily I already have someone who wants my 66 too. The 66 runs great but I need something quicker spooling so I can actually tow and it wont get stupid hot and take a while to light. These sound like my solution
suprhlr
New member
X2 on ED. thats what is on mine 60/68 over a billet 475, they start to spool at 1600. They will make 65 psi and egt is only at 1200. Call Chris, he will hook you up
