rear end

Danbonzo · Jun 17, 2012

Dmstrucks02 said:
check out detroit locker

WHS, love mine

PowerstrokeJunkie · Jun 17, 2012

My detroit locker i used to have would 'pop' in and lock simply when turning out of my driveway right as you touched the pedal to accelerate, you can hear it snap in and lock, its not gradual and smooth its SNAP. Theres absolutely no need for it to lock in in a situation such as that.. If the steering wheel is turned pretty sharp, you go to touch the pedal to start moving, and you have weight on the back ( for instance say a heavy trailer) the tire doesn't become the weak link (that will slip), you now have the axle shaft that has to absorb the difference in the wheel speed between the fast (outside) and slow (inside) wheel.

Not with a true trac

MossBack · Jun 17, 2012

PowerstrokeJunkie said:
My detroit locker i used to have would 'pop' in and lock simply when turning out of my driveway right as you touched the pedal to accelerate, you can hear it snap in and lock, its not gradual and smooth its SNAP. Theres absolutely no need for it to lock in in a situation such as that.. If the steering wheel is turned pretty sharp, you go to touch the pedal to start moving, and you have weight on the back ( for instance say a heavy trailer) the tire doesn't become the weak link (that will slip), you now have the axle shaft that has to absorb the difference in the wheel speed between the fast (outside) and slow (inside) wheel.

Not with a true trac

Ok thanks that's what I had thought but for me it read as if the true trac caused that.

IMO whether it is manual hubs transfer case or locker I'd rather do the switching.

Curious the price would be from Ford on a new rear locker? Maybe it will be the next upgrade.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

johndeerezach · Jun 17, 2012

sounds like a lot of messing around with the different gear patterns. more than what i thought was going in to it. i guess i thought i could pull rear cover unbolt the carrier and bolt place a true trac in place of old unit.

Danbonzo · Jun 17, 2012

PowerstrokeJunkie said:
My detroit locker i used to have would 'pop' in and lock simply when turning out of my driveway right as you touched the pedal to accelerate, you can hear it snap in and lock, its not gradual and smooth its SNAP. Theres absolutely no need for it to lock in in a situation such as that.. If the steering wheel is turned pretty sharp, you go to touch the pedal to start moving, and you have weight on the back ( for instance say a heavy trailer) the tire doesn't become the weak link (that will slip), you now have the axle shaft that has to absorb the difference in the wheel speed between the fast (outside) and slow (inside) wheel.

Not with a true trac

Mine has never "snapped" but they can make some noises from time to time especially on a wet road surface. I have the latest Detroit "soft" locker which unlocks if and only if you lift off the throttle. Of you are on the throttle it is locked period. Takes some getting used to but now that I have become accustomed to its manners I plan on always running one. The true tracs are also good but they are still a limited slip (torque sensing) I wanted true posi and also "bulletproof". I know guys who tow 15k loads with "locker" rears no issue. No right or wrong just depends on what your looking for.

johndeerezach · Jun 17, 2012

MilehighEX said:
randy's ring and pinion good prices ans service, sounds like you have never built a diff alot of places to mess it up and ruin your ring&pinion. GEAR PATTERN HAS TO BE MARKED BEFORE REMOVAL OF ORGINAL CARRIER WITH GEAR MARKING COMPOUND TO RETAIN ORIGINAL PATTERN WITH NEW LOCKER OF CHOICE! Otherwise the gears with eat each other or whine.

i guess i dont understand what you mean by the gear pattern has to be marked before you remove the original carrier. is that when u put the color on and see where the gears make contact. is that what you mean?

lincolnlocker · Jun 17, 2012

truetrac ftw!! love mine... hasn't let me down yet and hasn't caused any issues towing or turning... now if your turning and you stomp on it you can feel it smoothly in-gauge and both tires will burn... but when easing in to it its smooth with no lock.

91turbogsx · Jun 17, 2012

I've rebuilt/installed 2 TruTrac's in 10.5's and I will just say this. In those 2 diffs I was able to use the original sized shims in all aspects to achieve a good gear pattern and backlash spec. Even after installing new bearings on the pinion and carrier. I'm not saying it's a direct easy swap but so far I have been lucky.

For the record it was all Timken bearings. No experience with other brands.

:edit I love my TruTrac. Don't think I would recommend anything other for a street truck. If your truck did alot of off roading i'd maybe consider a locker. I have yet to ever spin one tire in any situation so far with my TruTrac though.

MilehighEX · Jun 18, 2012

gear pattern

johndeerezach said:
i guess i dont understand what you mean by the gear pattern has to be marked before you remove the original carrier. is that when u put the color on and see where the gears make contact. is that what you mean?

exactly.... you want two set the gears back up in the closest to the same pattern as they where orginally broke in....pinion depth shouldn't change, I would measure original carrier bearing shims and start with that. Without having a carrier bearing press sometimes pulling the bearings results in a pulled off bearing cage or broken race. The best way is to use setup bearings that the inner dia. is sanded slightly bigger to side off and on to change shims easily and find gear pattern, then you add carrier preload shims equally to each side and drive it in the housing and recheck pattern.

91turbogsx · Jun 18, 2012

You don't need to pull the carrier bearings every time to change it. Once they are on they don't need to come off. It's as simple is just adding more shim to one side, subtract the same amount from the other or vice versa.

91turbogsx · Jun 18, 2012

You only would need a setup bearing on the pinion to adjust pinion depth.

MilehighEX · Jun 18, 2012

Correct me if I'm wrong the 10.25 /10.5" Sterling does not have carrier adjusters like a 14 Bolt, 9" Ford or Toy 8"...sooo where are you putting your carrier shims? There is no way to get good carrier preload if the shims are on the outside of the carrier bearing race with out killing the shims, instead of under the carrier bearing itself. The carrier with preload should go in the axle housing tight. Once I get gear pattern set I add .010" to .015" on both sides of carrier under the carrier bearing for carrier preload and I use a giant deadblow hammer to get it in, the right tool would be a case spreader...I might make one someday....I'm not picking a fight just pointing out some things....Hell to get the carrier out in original specs it should not just fall, out you have to use a slide hammer or pry bars to get it out

91turbogsx · Jun 18, 2012

MilehighEX said:
Correct me if I'm wrong the 10.25 /10.5" Sterling does not have carrier adjusters like a 14 Bolt, 9" Ford or Toy 8"...sooo where are you putting your carrier shims? There is no way to get good carrier preload if the shims are on the outside of the carrier bearing race with out killing the shims, instead of under the carrier bearing itself. The carrier with preload should go in the axle housing tight. Once I get gear pattern set I add .010" to .015" on both sides of carrier under the carrier bearing for carrier preload and I use a giant deadblow hammer to get it in, the right tool would be a case spreader...I might make one someday....I'm not picking a fight just pointing out some things....Hell to get the carrier out in original specs it should not just fall, out you have to use a slide hammer or pry bars to get it out

The carrier shims go on the outside of the bearing race. Are you referring to spacing the bearing itself so the race goes against the case? Doesn't sound like a good idea to me cause that's not how it's designed and you'd have to space them out nearly a 1/4". You can still achieve proper preload with the shims on the outside of the bearing races. The shims don't just slide in easily...

There are a few million 10.25/10.5 out there all running the same way.

EDIT: I'm gonna leave this here but I misread your post and took it the wrong way. I now understand what you meant.

91turbogsx · Jun 18, 2012

I may have read your post wrong. I buy OEM shims personally. They are machined to the thickness desired. You can order them in increments of .002 and they are all odd numbers IIRC. And I'm talking about the solid spacers/shims.

johndeerezach · Jun 18, 2012

ok im up for buying the true trac no problem but with all this shimming and being exact with backlash.(which i was never good at with electricial motor drivien shafts) i might just be well off to take it to my mechanic. haha

Dmstrucks02 · Jun 19, 2012

The truTrac is what I meant to say :doh:

TARM · Jun 19, 2012

Shop around if you do. Some will do it for a couple hundred other charge crazy amounts like $1k.

johndeerezach · Jun 19, 2012

yea i have to go talk to him anyways bout a new fuel filter cuz my fram one busted a leak and spurted about 3 gal of fuel all over

91turbogsx · Jun 19, 2012

91turbogsx said:
I may have read your post wrong. I buy OEM shims personally. They are machined to the thickness desired. You can order them in increments of .002 and they are all odd numbers IIRC. And I'm talking about the solid spacers/shims.

I just wanted to update this just for the records cause I don't know if I got what I wanted to say across right. Here is a pic of a shim set you could use (stole this from FourWheeler mag but it is just for reference.) If you look close the fine shims are captured by the 2 thicker ones. One has a lip on it. You can also get the factory solid shims in countless thickness's. I prefer that but they are expensive. Especially if you don't get it right and need to buy more. I see nothing wrong with the method of shimming shown below (only a quality shim kit will be like those) and it allows MUCH easier fine tuning instead of pulling off the carrier bearings to adjust it.