Short block assembling, tools?

cRaZy8 · Nov 13, 2016

My short block is at the machine shop now getting worked over.
The machinist had a partner (recently deceased) who did all the assembly work.
He doesnt assemble engines, just bores, hones, measures etc.

My dads good friend is a local engine builder, but has never assembled a diesel.
I will be assembling this with him.

Is there a list some where of any special tools needed?
I have yet to get my hands on a manual.
Buddy of mine works at a diesel repair shop and is working on getting me a manual from Ford.

OR.......

Does anyone have a reputable builder any where from just say, southern Mass to RI, to Eastern NY, Northern NJ or CT?

6.0 Tech · Nov 13, 2016

Youll need a crank alignment tool, for timing the cam and crank. Ive done it a couple times without, but after screwing up once, i use it every time now. And front and rear seal installers, as they come with wear sleeves that have to be pressed on as well with the seal. Other than that, its pretty straight forward.

sisupower · Nov 13, 2016

Basic tools really. Ring compressor to install pistons. Assembly lube. Torque wrenches, 1/4,3/8 and 1/2 12point sockets if you are doing arp studs. A lot of good towels that don't leave fibers behind. Keep it clean as you can.

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Nick7.3 · Nov 13, 2016

6.0 Tech said:
Youll need a crank alignment tool, for timing the cam and crank. Ive done it a couple times without, but after screwing up once, i use it every time now. And front and rear seal installers, as they come with wear sleeves that have to be pressed on as well with the seal. Other than that, its pretty straight forward.

You line up the cam gear timing mark with the dowel on the crank right?

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Nick7.3 · Nov 13, 2016

Nick7.3 said:
You line up the cam gear timing mark with the dowel on the crank right?

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6.0 Tech · Nov 13, 2016

Nick7.3 said:
You line up the crank gear timing mark with the dowel on the crack right?

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They arekinda weird. There is a hole in the cam gear that needs to be at 12oclock, then the dowel on the crank also needs to be at 12oclock. The tool has a peg in it, hen bolts to one of the bell hoising holes. The other end has a groove in it that the dowel slides into. I had one that was a tooth off and it missed like a mother over 2k rpm and smoked like crazy. Idled perfect d ran fine under 2k though.

Nick7.3 · Nov 13, 2016

I pulled my crank adapter off to swap cams while I did all new lifters as well. This is how I timed it no issues yet lol

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6.0 Tech · Nov 13, 2016

Ive never pulled an adapter, as i have had access to the tool usually. The first ones i did without the tool, it was missing, then was found as someone who got fired had their toolbox searched...

Luke@MillerPerformance · Nov 14, 2016

Pulling the adapter is the easiest way. River City sells an arp adapter bolt kit.

sideactiondiesel · Nov 14, 2016

I pulled my crank adapter off to swap cams while I did all new lifters as well. This is how I timed it no issues yet lol

This is installed incorrectly ..

so please fix before you finish engine.

powerstrokedkid87 · Nov 14, 2016

Luke@MillerPerformance said:
Pulling the adapter is the easiest way. River City sells an arp adapter bolt kit.

this is how we have done it in the past.

we also have an alignment tool from Street Diesel Performance when assembling a full block.

visual inspection is good, but we like piece of mind everything get triple checked. 5 minutes checking now saves hours and dollars later

Nick7.3 · Nov 14, 2016

sideactiondiesel said:
This is installed incorrectly ..

so please fix before you finish engine.

What did I do incorrectly? I used rcd adapter kit and checked for runout.

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powerstroked08 · Nov 14, 2016

Should look like this

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Nick7.3 · Nov 14, 2016

I guess I'm still confused. I have pictures before I pulled it off in the same orientation and I also marked everything

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powerstroked08 · Nov 14, 2016

Those 2 holes dowel pin holes are for the alignment tool. They go in the top. That little dot by the gear tooth is your timing mark. Your cam is off by 180 degrees or so now. And since your crank spins at a 2 to 1 ratio. Your timing will be close but possibly off.

powerstroked08 · Nov 14, 2016

I would spin the crank around and see if the dots line up. You could possibly be off by a tooth.

Nick7.3 · Nov 14, 2016

powerstroked08 said:
Those 2 holes dowel pin holes are for the alignment tool. They go in the top. That little dot by the gear tooth is your timing mark. Your cam is off by 180 degrees or so now. And since your crank spins at a 2 to 1 ratio. Your timing will be close but possibly off.

Right but how I pulled it off is how it went back together. The smaller dot on mine was pointed up and the 2 larger dots matched up with the timing mark on the crank adapter.

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DEEZUZ · Nov 14, 2016

Nick7.3 said:
I guess I'm still confused. I have pictures before I pulled it off in the same orientation and I also marked everything

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Does it Run?