Shut off truck now won't start.

Dirtclod

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'01 250 7.3 4x4 auto 203k miles
Just got it out of the shop Friday. Before it sat for 3 months waiting on body work. When it was back together fired up,no smoke and idled fine. Not so much when giving it throttle under load. Running rough,turbo pressure sluggish finally it just died. Turned over fine but no start. Called a reputable diesel mechanic down the road. I've used him before always done me right. 2 weeks later he called said IDM was the issue and replaced it. Also a bad valve cover gasket,replaced longthat, I had him rebuild oil coolerandvflush new fan clutch and fan. He saidit was ready and runs good. At first it wouldn't crank. After several attempts it fired up and blew white smoke. It didn't run good.service eng light was on. I took it back told him wasn't running right. He dug into it said #1 inj was bad. I went picked it still didn't want to start. But it did and ran great. No more starting issues till next morning same thing. Started fine rest of the day. This morning same thing but didn't take as long. Headed to the OBX for family vacation got 75 miles pulled in a store came out truck wouldn't start. 2 hours later still wont. A friend is going with me tomorrow and plug it up to see what we find. He's not very savvy on diesels but I've been studying.
List of possibles.
1) icp,ipr
2) Cps
3)hpop resevoir (check level see if losing it somewhere
4) any other suggestions?
 

purpleheart350

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I had this issue with my truck too. The first time it was a bad IDM, got a new one from ford, now it just eats CPS for breakfast. It hasn't done it in a while but that is usually where I start on 7.3's.
 

Dirtclod

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Yeah I just had the IDM replaced. I'm not a mechanic by any means but tomorrow I'm going to act like one. I've been sitting here making a list of things I can do (Cps) is first. Check icp I'm pretty sure it had oil all in the to of it. Test glo plug relay just to see if it's working right. Clean out the fuel bowl and check to make sure it's getting fuel. Check oil pump res. Something makes all this happen and it could be as simple as a wire shirting out or ground losing connection causing the pcm to go nuts. I'll take the ipr valve out and clean it to.check all the wires that I can. If it's other than something simple I'll have to get a mechanic on it. Might as well go to the dealership some of these other mechanics are a helluv a lot worse.
 

Dirtclod

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Yep! But if ya ain't got,ya ain't got! I've got one lil connection up there and I'll try to see if ain't too busy or don't mind if I borrow it. I can talk to mechanic back home and he can help with codes and I guess I can google them. The next purchase I make is going to be something I can read codes. I've always liked DP tuners web site and I'm planning on getting the Bluetooth chip. I haven't spent a lot of time looking into it. I knew I had other issues before I really messed up things! Lol.some of their hi end chips,as far as I can tell, have built in scanners. Is that right? Then I see where you can buy the scanner that can test injectors and how'd that go? I can't remember the lingo, but y'all get my point. Can I get some light shines on me about this subject?
 

Dirtclod

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1st thing I did. Full and clean. Just had it changed. I am going to check hpop resevoir 1st. But I'm sure it's ok just had new orings put in it. But I guess that don't mean squat. And I'm going to make sure there is fuel in bowl. Question? If it is Cps will it crank when it gets cooled down?
 

lincolnlocker

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yeah, it should crank no matter what.. unless it is hydrolocked and can't.. what is your battery voltage before you try and start it, then at idle, then after its hot?

live life full throttle
 

Dirtclod

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Ok I got cps changed out pulled icp and it was clean. Checked hop tank it only a qtr full. Pulled it out with lower unit pump and filled it to inch below top. I didn't have a charger couldn't buy one they're under 5 kerfew. Everything closed. No way my s10 was going to start it. It would normally but not how it's been since he changed idm. I would blame it on in install but it was already doing it. Tach is coming up when trying to crank and "don't fuss"I sprayed starting fluid it tried to start and the lpop gauge finally came up. I could have something going on there.
 

Dirtclod

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Sorry that last entry was kinda run together a bit. and i busted my new phone.ill try this again. i changed the cam pos sensor,the hpop resevoir was only a qtr full. i used a pump i had for changing lower unit oil to pull the rest out and filled it up. the batteries were weak and i expected that so i just hooked the jumper cables up to my s10 for bout an hour. ever since i got my truck back from idm replacement,valve cover gasket leak,oil cooler rebuild and fan clutch and fan it takes forever to start 1st time of the day. he kept it another week and said #1 injector was bad so he replaced it. im no expert but i wasnt having bad injector symptoms according to oyhers ive taked to. anyways i knew it would take alot of battery to start it. the city of columbia is under a kerfew because of flooding and all the businesses closed around me at 5 so i couldnt go get a battery charger. i was able to get some good cranks out of it and tachometer was movig to @2-300 rpms during crank'however the lpop pressure gauge wouldnt move. i cycled glo plugs waited 3 min shot ether into air filter and turned her herover. it tried to start and the oil pressure gauge finally started working. it tried to crank sounding like it was low on fuel. i left it be and took my friend back to augusta and im headed to nags head to be with family. ill stop by sunday and throw two batteries in it try again or i might just hav e it towed to ford dealership. thats ugly dieseltron! its not through its justt sick is all. that truck was running like raped ape before i stopped saturday. best its ever ran. theres no service light on. itll be interesting to see what another mechanic has to say.
 

Arisley

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Bring oil with you to refill the HPOP again. If the HPOP is draining down, that would explain the hard first start in the morning. Sounds like it is getting worse. I bet your injector o-rings are shot. Swap those out and you will be fine.

They are not that hard to do, but there are a couple tricks that if not done correctly will lock your motor up tighter than Dixie. If you are going to do them yourself, make sure you ask here for instructions first.
 

Dirtclod

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thats exactly what i told the mechanic right off the bat. thank you for chiming in. im working in augusta ga but home is in northwest nc. my mechanic told me this 8 months ago when he installed my tranny. i never got it done cause everything else was messing up. hes pretty sharp on these trucks and especially the 6.o's. hes been at that dealership since 86 and everytime i stop by hes got the cab raised on a ps. no way im gonna do that job. only reason i changed that sensor is it was easy. what pi~%es me the mechanic in augusta has had it twice and gave it back to me sayin its runnin fine. it was runnin fine the 2nd time after it finally started. its got 200k on it so might as well get new injectors. theres a guy not far from me has swamps 176/60's gtp38r and tuning for 2k. gotta give him my cores. ive tried contacting swaps email to see if they would go thru them and warranty them but havent heard back. ive pretty much got all my issues fixed except for cold starts when cold. i apreciate the advice Arisely. now if theres anyone on here who would haul it from columbia to pilot mtn nc chime in and let me know. ive also got a 01f350 parts truck that needs hauling from augusta. ill start a thread in classifieds. once again thanks!
 

Dirtclod

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Ok guys I'm going to try again to fire this truck up tomorrow and get it home. Oil,battery charger,starting fluid! Any suggestions?
 

Arisley

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Check the HPOP before doing anything. If empty, refill it.

Little allen wrench plug on the top of the reservoir, pull it out and dip it with a screwdriver. It should be within a 1/2 inch of the top. If not, fill it though that hole.
 

Dirtclod

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Thanks! Also there's a Archoil dealer just south of where it's at. The name of the place is Carolina Chassis Dyno. I've been in there once before to get some and it worked wonders for a couple thousand miles. I'm going down there to get some so it might be tomorrow before I get it fired up. I'll post back then
 

Dirtclod

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Well gave it about 10 good tries but she won't start. Of course it tried to,the oil pressure gauge for lpop wouldn't come up till I shot it with fluid. I kept a charger on it 50 amp boost to crank and spins over fine but after bout 30 seconds it was wore down. I've gotta get it towed again. It'll be at least 500$ to tow home and I don't know anyone close. Conway SC is bout 2 hrs away I stopped by his shop today On my way!. But I font know anything bout him. Does anyone know good shop in Charlotte?
 

Dirtclod

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A week ago I had to fill resevoir up,after cranking for several times resevoir was almost dry again. Yesterday I added maybe a 1/4 pint of archoil in resevoir the rest rottella. I wound on it @ 8-10 times and maybe resevoir went down 1/4". Lpop shows pressure after it tries to crank but not till then. Could it be bad? Or hpop finally quit? If hpop quits I suppose oil just pushes through? Or could it be ipr valve is bad? I'm pretty sure orings are shot in injectors and I have enough confidence in archoil that it could fix orings temporarily so there'd 2 things happening IMO! Let's hare yours!
 

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