powerlifter405
Active member
Any photos of the heater box removal?
Valve Spring?
- Thread starter GreenF350
- Start date
GreenF350
Member
What exactly are you looking for? Mine is still apart if you want pictures of how much room it will free up. If you want the steps of removal, for mine I just took out the 13 little screws with an 8mm head that hold the plastic on and I think it was one screw that helped hold the accumulator for the A/C on it's bracket and then wrestled it around until it would fit to come out. II had to jack the motor up a bit to do that.
Let me know if you still want pictures and I will see what I can do a bit later. I know a picture can be worth a thousand words.
-Aaron
powerlifter405
Active member
Its Christmas, no rush.
I'll take whatever you can post up or send my way. I will probably do injectors, uppipes and turbo this summer and i've done it before but I'd like to do studs as well so anything to make it easier.
I can have the motor out in about 4-6 hours from past experience so I may go that route to make things easier.
dsberman94
Well-known member
do you pull the motor and trans or just motor? disassemble the front of the truck?
powerlifter405
Active member
I took apart the front. It's pretty easy and actually pretty quick. If you have an impact driver or air tools you can have everything taken down comfortably in just a few hours.
Several years ago I had never done it before and I did a lot of research on PSN at the time and talked to a few guys who've had to do it in their driveway and it was the easiest approach. I did a motor swap w/ just my Ridgid impact driver and it went pretty smooth. It made getting the motor in/out so much easier and being able to freely work in it.
The hardest part was accessing the motor mounts. I did just the motor.
If I do both injectors/turbo and the trans at the same time for my 99 they'll both will come out. If I just do injectors/turbo I'll maybe do motor in and hood off.
Several years ago I had never done it before and I did a lot of research on PSN at the time and talked to a few guys who've had to do it in their driveway and it was the easiest approach. I did a motor swap w/ just my Ridgid impact driver and it went pretty smooth. It made getting the motor in/out so much easier and being able to freely work in it.
The hardest part was accessing the motor mounts. I did just the motor.
If I do both injectors/turbo and the trans at the same time for my 99 they'll both will come out. If I just do injectors/turbo I'll maybe do motor in and hood off.
dsberman94
Well-known member
ok. im looking at ways that i want to do it when the time comes. My trans was built over the summer when it went bad so i really don't want to have to pull it again. injectors and turbo are easy even with the hood on. studs might be a different story on that though. this is when its nice to have a ford diesel tech with a big garage and lots of tools and an extremely good knowledge of the 7.3 only a couple phone calls away. this should be easy.
I did it a couple years ago. Just be patient. Remember to have the piston at the top of the cylinder when doing valve springs. Rock the motor from side to side to do studs. Remove the air box, there are a lot of screws but way easier to work when its out. I broke a couple sockets putting in studs. Remember to use the correct length under the injector hold downs. The next one I do the engine is coming out.
Chvyrkr
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I can pull an engine in a couple hours, trans in and out in an hour.
I will never try doin studs "in truck" lol.
Just seems like a crapload of work to save... Work...
I will never try doin studs "in truck" lol.
Just seems like a crapload of work to save... Work...
V-Ref
Active member
I honestly don't understand wtf everyone seems to whining about headstuds and springs in the truck. Topside creeper + loosen motor mounts...rock motor for the back two studs...jeez
Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
Chvyrkr
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Lol, not tryin to throw rocks...
I just wonder the same thing about pullin the engine. I guess if you don't have the facilities available...
I just wonder the same thing about pullin the engine. I guess if you don't have the facilities available...
V-Ref
Active member
Chvyrkr.....me either! Cherry picker and motor stand are nice to have. To each each his own I guess. Maybe once I pull the motor and try it that way I'll be sold?
Chvyrkr
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Honestly, I've never done it in truck...
But measuring valve springs and installing studs was so much more simple to do methodically on a stand I can't imagine I'll ever try in truck.
But measuring valve springs and installing studs was so much more simple to do methodically on a stand I can't imagine I'll ever try in truck.
Chvyrkr
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By the time I get done with a set of injectors I'm usually tired of bending over lol, maybe I'm just stubborn.
JD3020
Active member
I did springs on a stand, and i can only imagine how much of a PITA they are to do in the truck. Or at least the way i did it which was with a big lever to compress the springs, and measuring each one.
Planning on doing studs at some point this year, but haven't decided if i want to do it in the cab with my creeper, lift the cab off with the forklift/skid steer, or pull the engine back out.
Planning on doing studs at some point this year, but haven't decided if i want to do it in the cab with my creeper, lift the cab off with the forklift/skid steer, or pull the engine back out.
jwlandry
Active member
Mines coming out to do studs springs and pushrods. Contemplating hard on doing a cam, new lifters and main bearings too while it on the stand.
Dmstrucks02
New member
We put new rod bearings on the motor thats on the stand, didnt mess with the mains...
