Tried Mobil 1 synthetic fluid and redgard and the pump still whined. Put my old pulp back on and quite as can be. Have to say after getting the right pedal and the pump in order, I'm very happy with my new mod. My rear discs also work great too with the hydroboost.
Hydroboost Conversion Done
- Thread starter Peroni
- Start date
gnxtc2
Active member
Here is the differences in the pedals. F450 F350 This is why the arm doesn't fit correctly on the f250-350 pedals. So for people that saying the pedal is the same, it is NOT! To correctly do hydroboost on a obs, better get the pedal too!
Is the hydroboost pedal 2 5/8" center to center?
I'm going to move the pin on the vacuum brake pedal closer to the pivot point. Just need to confirm the measurement.
And yes I'll take pics.
Thanks
Billy T.
[email protected]
I will check mine tomorrow and how it's centered. Will report when I get the measurements.
gnxtc2
Active member
Well, it's done. Thanks to Got4wd, I modified a vacuum brake pedal for the hydroboost system. I want to give credit to Got4wd for finding this out. I would have never thought there was a different pedal for hydroboost set up. There also a different brake switch for the same, more on that later. Anyway on to the mod.........
Note: This mod is for converting the vacuum brake pedal into a hydroboost pedal. The pedal for the hydroboost is different from the vacuum brake and is obsolete from Ford. Unless you find a F-SuperDuty in the junkyard, this mod is very easy to do.
First I grinded down the weld on the back side, then pressed out the pin.
Put the pin in a lathe and made a step for the pin. Drilled a hole 2 5/8" (higher) towards the pivot. Made a plug for the old hole. Welded everything together. Then sprayed the whole pedal in semi-gloss black. Also bought a new brake pad. Note: You don't have to machine the step in the pin, you can just drill the proper size hole and press it back in. Don't go to far or there will not be enough room for the brake switch. Regardless, the pin needs to be welded on the backside.
Now the hard part, installing it.
The pedal assembly Got4wd sent me, the pedal was through bolted to the upper bracket. Well....I thought I was going to remove the bolt and install the pedal but my pedal was pinned to the upper bracket. Well anyway, a little more but I got it.
The brake switch.
There is a different brake switch which I did not get. Better yet, I forgot to get it. So I grinded down the piece that interfered with the rod. But that caused another issue. The brake switch connector is very, very close to the bracket that holds the shifter indicator cable. The terminals on the F-SD brake switch are turned 90* to clear the bracket. Yes, I need to repair the insulation on the wire and get the correct brake switch.
Oh yea, the hydroboost rod needs to be rotated back to its correct position for the guys that are currently using the vacuum brake pedal. The rod is now lined up direct with the pin. With the vacuum brake pedal, the pedal needed to be rotated 180* and this put the rod at an angle (I forgot to take a pic).
Due to the pin being higher up, the pedal now rests higher than before. My foot needs to be retrained for the new position. There is much less effort needed and the truck stops awesome, maybe too good.
IMHO: whoever has done the hydroboost conversion should do this or find a hydroboost pedal out of a F-SuperDuty in the junkyard.
Also read this:
Hydroboost issues - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Billy T.
[email protected]
Note: This mod is for converting the vacuum brake pedal into a hydroboost pedal. The pedal for the hydroboost is different from the vacuum brake and is obsolete from Ford. Unless you find a F-SuperDuty in the junkyard, this mod is very easy to do.
First I grinded down the weld on the back side, then pressed out the pin.
Put the pin in a lathe and made a step for the pin. Drilled a hole 2 5/8" (higher) towards the pivot. Made a plug for the old hole. Welded everything together. Then sprayed the whole pedal in semi-gloss black. Also bought a new brake pad. Note: You don't have to machine the step in the pin, you can just drill the proper size hole and press it back in. Don't go to far or there will not be enough room for the brake switch. Regardless, the pin needs to be welded on the backside.
Now the hard part, installing it.
The pedal assembly Got4wd sent me, the pedal was through bolted to the upper bracket. Well....I thought I was going to remove the bolt and install the pedal but my pedal was pinned to the upper bracket. Well anyway, a little more but I got it.
The brake switch.
There is a different brake switch which I did not get. Better yet, I forgot to get it. So I grinded down the piece that interfered with the rod. But that caused another issue. The brake switch connector is very, very close to the bracket that holds the shifter indicator cable. The terminals on the F-SD brake switch are turned 90* to clear the bracket. Yes, I need to repair the insulation on the wire and get the correct brake switch.
Oh yea, the hydroboost rod needs to be rotated back to its correct position for the guys that are currently using the vacuum brake pedal. The rod is now lined up direct with the pin. With the vacuum brake pedal, the pedal needed to be rotated 180* and this put the rod at an angle (I forgot to take a pic).
Due to the pin being higher up, the pedal now rests higher than before. My foot needs to be retrained for the new position. There is much less effort needed and the truck stops awesome, maybe too good.
IMHO: whoever has done the hydroboost conversion should do this or find a hydroboost pedal out of a F-SuperDuty in the junkyard.
Also read this:
Hydroboost issues - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Billy T.
[email protected]
Very nice write up. The same brake switch is used in older mustangs. It uses the 90 degree style. Sorry for not getting back to you on the measurements. I was out of town. Also for someone that had a 5 speed that did or wants to do the hydroboost I have a pedal for that too. Pay shipping and you can have it.
Peroni
Member
I had my pedal out over the weekend while adding in some sound insulation. I did some measuring and got a measurement of 2.738 from center of pivot to center of pedal rod pin.
glovemeister
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Interesting find here guys. Looks like I'll need to find a pedal.
For everyone doing hydroboost, are you running a cooler and filter? I assume that both of these go in the return line?
For everyone doing hydroboost, are you running a cooler and filter? I assume that both of these go in the return line?
I haven't yet. I'm doing a saginaw conversion because the ford pump sucks and tired of dealing with a poor design pump. Here are a couple pics of what I have done so far.
glovemeister
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That looks pretty neat. Thanks for the pics.
FrankTheTank
Active member
is the saginaw pump a stronger pump? more psi/volume for easier steering or just a better pump to last longer?
All the above. It's a "vane" style pump. I'm hoping to have it on next week and will post pics. These ford pumps suck.
FrankTheTank
Active member
id like to know your results. i have a sd steering box on my truck but cant push enough fluid thru it to take advantage of the softer steering and tighter ratio.
Peroni
Member
I've thought about doing this but did not get a warm fuzzy feeling about removing so much material from the bracket. I've also though of either machining a new acc bracket from a billet or having one cast in iron and beefing up the pattern so more material would be available to the support the pump.
Thoughts???
Although I have to say I've had zero issues with the Ford pump. But it seems that I'm in the minority here.
Thoughts???
Although I have to say I've had zero issues with the Ford pump. But it seems that I'm in the minority here.
Overkill
New member
Same pump I ended up using for my conversion and it definitely runs circles around the stock ford pump and no whining either. Looks like we both modified our brackets identically. My main goal was allowing for a stock pump to be used still just incase the pump failed ever and a Saginaw replacement wasn't immediately available.
Still not the best setup for my 44's, however its getting the job done so far. At some point I would like to add hydraulic assist to my rig.
I thought that too but I really did remove much from the bracket. If you look At the agr super pump. You really cut up the bracket to make it fit and haven't heard of anyone breaking a bracket while doing my reading. Just my .02 cents
glovemeister
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Looks like I need to add another item to the hydroboost project using that PS pump. Is there a gasket that seals the mating surface between the MC, and the Hydroboost unit? I saw a couple thin pieces of a rubber like material, but looking through parts diagrams I didn't see a gasket that was needed.
Last edited:
'94IDITurbo7.3
New member
Peroni,
now that you have done h-boost and rear disc, if you were back to square one and could only do one of these two mods, which one would you do? vac with disc, or h-boost with drums?
now that you have done h-boost and rear disc, if you were back to square one and could only do one of these two mods, which one would you do? vac with disc, or h-boost with drums?
Peroni
Member
Vac w/ disc - I ran that setup for a while until I had the funds to add hydrobost. Worked very well for me.
Strokersace
Well-known member
I'm just the opposite. I'd do hydroboost with drums any day of the week. My dads truck has been vac w/ disk for 2 years and it never stopped good. Largely due to the constant failing of vac pumps. My truck has hydro w/ drums and stops a ton better.
So my vote is hydro w/ drums.
