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Anyone willing to try to roll into the throttle around 60 mph and watch what their rail pressure does with the converter locked?

Unfortunately not at the moment, only have a mini max for gauges.

I rebuilt my engine last year, put in a new/reman pump from ford at the same time. My question is, with converter locked at say 60 mph, I roll into the throttle keeping the converter locked, rail pressure will only come up to 20k - 22k as rpms increase. Is that normal because of the lower rpms...

Impressive. With stock fuel I'm getting around 49-50 lbs and egts barely break 1200 with ppei tunes.

I've got almost the same setup except I didn't put my dual fueler kit and nozzles on yet. How much boost did you push and what were egts like?

Can't help you with the torque spec but I had this exact same problem when I put mine back together. Copper with the rubber type insert was leaking at the top of the banjo on the return. I was able to get to it cab on. Major pain the ass and I had to mangled the heat shield all up but it was...

I have regulated boost going to the bottom port and the top port open with the stiffest spring set in the wastegate. That's how the instructions showed to do mine. I have the regulator set so that back pressure doesn't get about 68 or so psi. I know there are different ways to do it. This way...

i think aftermarket is probably your best bet. Plan to spend closer to $1000 and up though to get everything that you want. What secret passageway are you speaking of with the factory unit?

You used a chisel on the cylinder skirts also?

I ended up just tearing it all down and grinding off what needed to be taken off. I'll have it re washed Monday and hopefully start all over Tuesday. I had to grind the tab sticking out from the block and the cylinder skirts to get everything to clear.

I wouldn't assume its a good idea to grind the block and not have it re-cleaned? I'm obviously learning as I go. I expected to put the rods in and go. I'm getting guidance from a mechanic friend. He mostly just does headstuds and ******s. He's done a few rebuilds, but with factory components.

Those that have put in Carrillo rods, I started putting pistons in yesterday afternoon. Put the first 2 in and when I went to turn the block over to make sure nothing was binding, the cap for the rod hits on a portion of the block that sticks out. Does anyone know off hand if the cylinder...

So is the juice worth the squeeze? I've never heard of an issue on a 6.4 that had to do with the main bolts failing?

I'm in the process of getting everything lined up to build my engine. It's getting bored .020. I was sent arp main studs, and they recommened torqueing the studs, then checking the line bore to make sure everything is still within spec. The machine shop that will be doing all of this advised...

Was just planning for stage two. No ported heads, and already have z max jr. Still undecided. Keep going back and forth between the two setups. Weighing the pros and cons of proven reliability and potential vs something different and unique.

Gotcha. That was what my plan was to make with Pistons, Rods, cam, lifters push rods, springs, 60% nozzles, dual fuel etc.

The jr high power 76/59? Any idea what it makes power wise?

I have an elite 72mm right now with factory high pressure. Was going to upgrade and give it to my brother. Does the jr high power come with a 360 thrust?

I think with my goal of having something "reliable", I'll stick with something along the lines of a stock appearing setup. I really like the idea of going with something different, and really want that whistle, but I may have to pass on it for the sake of simplicity. I had forgotten rcd had...

I have a cracked piston and I'm in the planning phase of putting it all back together. I'm on the fence about the turbo setup, either the tow power x 2.0 using the precision low pressure with a factory style 59mm or the Jr. High powers. I'm planning a dual fuel setup with 60% injectors for fuel...