7.3 Turbo and Pedestal Removal Problems

FullThrottleFarm · May 19, 2015

Hey guys,

New to the forum, but have read many post before.

I just picked up a 00 F350 for super cheap for our new farm truck as it needed a lot of work-Upgrading from 90 F350 IDI (00 needed Ex. Manifolds, up pipes, wheel bearings, brakes, and exhaust). The manifolds were a real PITA as they were so rusted I ended up having to cut the bolts and try to remove from the head. Took me 4 nights of working on it to get all the bolts out with the welding a nut method plus some heat.

What my problem and question is:

Removing the turbo and pedestal to do EBPV delete pedestal and exhaust housing and I can't break either of the bolts holding the turbo to the pedestal free. I can probably get heat on the front one, but doesn't seem like I can get to the back one with the heat wrench.

My question is: If I remove compressor housing to get to rear pedestal bolts, will the pedestal/turbo come out as 1 unit? It appears to be pretty tight?
I got the 2 front pedestal bolts out already and I think I can get to the back 2.

Any other ideas?

TyCorr · May 19, 2015

Take the two bolts out holding the turbo to the pedestal and get the turbo out of the way. You have to remove it anyway to swap pedestals. Get it out of your way.

Make sure you have the four orings needed to seal the pedestal to the turbo and pedestal to the block.

Inspect the turbo. Rebuild if in doubt. Lookup the instructions or locate someone local who does it.

Depending on what all needs done, you might have been ok just pulling the motor. I hate crawling around on top of the damn things

FullThrottleFarm · May 19, 2015

Yes, but that's my problem, it seems that the two bolts holding the turbo down are seized to the pedestal and/or turbo. I want to take turbo and pedestal out in 1 piece and work on the turbo hold down bolts out in the open.

Didn't feel that pulling the motor was necessary, but in Hind sight, it would have been a hell of a lot easier with everything needed.

Keep in mind, this is just a farm truck/plow truck that will get less than 5,000 miles a year more than likely. Only to pull heavy trailers, hall things, and plow.

It came with a reading dump bed electric over hydraulic as well as a 2 year old boss V-plow. I basically bought the plow and got everything else for free that way I look at it.

ghohouston · May 19, 2015

its an aluminum pedestal, those bolts cant be that damn tight, or it would have stripped the aluminum threads. you need a long 3/8 ratchet, and i like to use a medium deep 13mm 6 point socket. never had one that that combination wouldnt break loose. if youre having that much trouble just removing the turbo to pedestal bolts, youre in for bad luck with the v band clamp on the exhaust collector. and i dont think it is physically possible to remove the turbo and pedestal as one, with the motor still in the truck.

FullThrottleFarm · May 19, 2015

I have a v-band clamps off already....both the exhaust and up pipe. Those seemed easy compared to laying on top of the engine with a breaker bar yelling obscenities ....

These hold down bolts are rusty as hell. I had a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6point on there and even tried a 2ft pipe for more leverage and I stopped because it was either going to strip or break.

I believe they are seized in the turbo itself because that seems pretty rusted. Are the threads just in the pedestal or is there threads in the turbo housing as well?

I will try to heat it with the torch and see how that goes. Kinda figured I wouldn't be able to get the pedestal and turbo out all in 1.

ghohouston · May 19, 2015

thats the opposite of normal to say the least. usually the v band at the collector will give you fits upon removal. the turbo itself has no threads, just the pedestal. Have you tried spraying the crap out of the bolts with pb blaster and letting them soak for a while?

FullThrottleFarm · May 19, 2015

I sprayed them last night with ATF/Acetone mix and will try again tomorrow night using the heat wrench. Not sure how I am going to heat the back one up, but I will give her hell.

ghohouston · May 19, 2015

thats just crazy. be very careful in the valley with a torch, both of the wiring harness, and the inevitable puddle of oil and or fuel in the bottom.

FullThrottleFarm · May 19, 2015

Yeah....There is oil in the valley from the pedestal leaking. I plan to put down welders blanket.

About the only thing I can do other than pulling the motor just to get 2 bolts out of the turbo.

My other though was cutting them as close to the pedestal as I can since im junking that pedestal, but once again, not sure how I get something in that back one.

ghohouston · May 19, 2015

You can't pull a 7.3 with the turbo/pedestal still on the motor, so that would be a no go anyways.

Arisley · May 19, 2015

Big ass hammer.

Can you get an impact in there?

FullThrottleFarm · May 19, 2015

No room for either. Have about 4" to the cowl.

Dantheman · May 19, 2015

Time to get rough with it if the lube wont help. If the hex is stripping try to hammer on a smaller size socket. Put enough torque on it to either strip the aluminum or break the bolts. The bolt should break where the threads and the shoulder of the bolt meet if the aluminum doesn't strip. Have bolts and a new pedestal ready.

buschpoweredstroker · May 19, 2015

Are you sure you're on the right bolts? I can't believe you couldn't break them loose with a 1/2 inch bar, usually it's easy with a mid-long length 3/8. if you can't, it is possible to get the motor out with the turbo installed, I've even put them back in with the turbo bolted up, also did an h2e bolted on first just to see if we could and that sits higher and closer to the fire wall.

FullThrottleFarm · May 19, 2015

Ya thats what i was hoping for is to break both where the threads meet the pedestal, my luck they will break at the bolt head....

Not sure about bolt size. From what i can tell its all factory back there. They look the same as the size i have in my re-install kit from diesel o-rings.