bts cracked bell housing.

bigfords

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I second the rear driveshaft. I had my bellhousing crack just like you, just caught it before it got too out of hand. I was able to get mine welded up and was good and strong.
The front "double cardan" joint on the rear driveshaft was shot. Good luck finding a case!
 
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I checked the drive shafts. Everything seems fine. I have no clue what cause it other than just a weak point that finally let go. I'm gonna call Brian and hear his input but I'm pretty set on just putting my parts in another case. I'll pay more in shipping than I would spend on another case. I already have a lead on case from a member here. I may have to wait a week or 2 til funds build back up. I just ordered a billet triple disk and a rebuild kit for my dad's truck first of last week and being the good kid I am I told him I would pay for it since he does so much for me. Then I find mine is messed up. So mine might have to sit a week or 2 til I get his up and rolling again. Lol
 

bigfords

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The double cardan joint on the rear driveshaft should have a "snap" to it it. In other words, it shouldn't feel loose and free like you would think.
It should not flop back and forth easily.

I was wrong about this in the past, thought mine was OK but really wasn't.
 

Vader's Fury

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If you need a case let me know, I believe I have a 2wd one laying in the shop back in the corner.

If we can figure out a way to get it to you. Thought your location was MD.
 

Obsledpuller

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I had a problem I knew wasn't going to be warrantable and when I presented it to Brian he took care of me and was very reasonable. I'd get in touch with him then go from there. Just my 0.02
 
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Oh I still plan to call him. And he probably would fix it for me. My biggest concern is getting it back in a reasonable amount of time. We all know how backed up he is. plus shipping will cost me about $500 and if I can get the case I have my eye on I can buy it and the new fluid for the same amount. I'm gonna get in touch with Brian my next day off and see what he says and go from there.
 

Charles

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It's been stated but I don't think enough emphasis is being placed on the fact that the broken case is most likely a result of.... not the cause of... the vibration...

If your rear driveshaft is the vibration (hiiiiiiiiiiiighly likely...) and you slap a brand new case in that truck with everything swapped in you will be right back where you are now. Only a few months ago I had an ex-cab truck with a broken case due to a bad double cardan joint that went unresolved despite my warnings. Turned out the first driveshaft shop was just replacing joints, not actually replacing the centering portion of the assembly.

Your case is almost certainly cracked because of the vibration, not the other way around. I would make damn sure I had my cart behind my horse. Yours seems to be out front right now.

Your issue is common.

On Edit:

Take your rear shaft to a good driveshaft shop before you ever put the new trans in drive.
 
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There is a place not far from me that builds custom drive shafts they should be able to check it out for me and fix it. After reading more into the drive shaft issues and talking to a few more people that have had this problem or at least heard of it. I agree that is more than likely what caused my case to break. And there has only been about 14k put on this thing in the last 5 years. So it sets a lot.
 
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I checked my drive shaft again this evening and it seems fine but just to rule that out I'm gonna rebuild everything on it. I have been wondering if my traction bars could have aided in the crack. That is the only thing different that's been put on.
 

Charles

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The u-joints themselves are usually not the issue with the vibration, so feeling it by hand doesn't reveal a double cardan issue most of the time. And obviously a shop replacing those joints fixes nothing if the little centering socket in the double cardan is not replaced.

As for an rpm related vibration.... when it's apart see if the snout on the TC has evidence of making good contact inside the pilot hole in the flexplate adapter piece. If the TC hub is not piloting into the crank adapter it will not center. The adapter or hub can also have a burr or other buildup that will keep things from being concentric.

Second culprit might be dowel pins missing, or too short (manual trans pins in the block).

It's probably the shaft though.
 

buschpoweredstroker

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If you can't find an issue anywhere else, pull the cover on the rear end and inspect. We had one at one point that had a horrible vibration and we were 95% sure it was coming from the tranny/clutch because you could feel the vibration under your feet. Ended up being an issue in the rear end following the driveline up through the tranny.
 

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