Lt.Dan
Member
Yeah ive used Fel-Pro on other gas v8's before too, but i know how things are with Ford Diesels, everybody will burn you at the stake if you dont use motorcraft lol
Possible cracked block?
- Thread starter Lt.Dan
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79jasper
Active member
People are using them on the idi's.
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Lt.Dan
Member
Im going for it, wish me luck lol
Lt.Dan
Member
So i JUST got some info from the guy handling my motor... 3 weeks without any call from him... he said injectors came back, and 3 of them tested bad, when i asked what was wrong with them, he said he would have to check the report sheet, but he was pretty sure they didnt give a reason. So for all i know, they were just worn out, or they completely imploded inside... Dunno. But he has 3 stock injectors in stock he would sell to me pretty cheap. Debating on spending the extra coin and getting stage ones, but again, looking to keep this cost low.
Oil analysis he said was sent out, and they should be done, so hes going to call them first thing in the morning and find out whats up with that.
I told him i needed my motor back asap, atleast before the end of the month, and he said it can be done. So fingers crossed...
Wish me luck!
Oil analysis he said was sent out, and they should be done, so hes going to call them first thing in the morning and find out whats up with that.
I told him i needed my motor back asap, atleast before the end of the month, and he said it can be done. So fingers crossed...
Wish me luck!
benjamindurtka
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If they are original injectors with the miles you have then save yourself the time later and get an upgrade now. Although you can do it yourself later on without much trouble, it would just suck to have your truck start running like crap and diagnosing etc after you just put the engine back in.
2001 F-250 cclb
7.3l 4x4
forged rods,
ebpv, muffler, dp80hp dd.
2001 F-250 cclb
7.3l 4x4
forged rods,
ebpv, muffler, dp80hp dd.
Lt.Dan
Member
Well when they did the test on the injectors, the other 5 tested out perfectly fine. So i feel like they will last me atleast a little while.
I will ask for the report sheet, and see what they actually say about them. My thought is if they deemed them good to use, then they must not be original.
The incorrect tuning might have caused the 3 that failed to do so, who knows.
I will ask for the report sheet, and see what they actually say about them. My thought is if they deemed them good to use, then they must not be original.
The incorrect tuning might have caused the 3 that failed to do so, who knows.
benjamindurtka
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Yeah, I understand being on a budget too.
My truck has been breaking mine for months now.
2001 F-250 cclb
7.3l 4x4
forged rods,
ebpv, muffler, dp80hp dd.
My truck has been breaking mine for months now.
2001 F-250 cclb
7.3l 4x4
forged rods,
ebpv, muffler, dp80hp dd.
Lt.Dan
Member
Going through some other parts, cleaning them up and getting ready for reinstallation of the motor. Still no confirmed answer on the motor.
Cleaned up the valve cover gaskets, and UVCH's. Went to go take apart the exhaust up-pipes from the manifolds and the collector (I pulled it all out as one piece, since there were no heads or turbo on it.) And 1 of the bolts that went into the collector was completely destroyed and wouldn't come out. You could see all the threads flattened where it came out the back. So i had to cut the head off, and drill/tap the hole back to 8mm x 1.25. Then as i was drilling it out, i noticed the hole adjacent from it was cracked through the housing.... We tried to TIG weld it with both Silicon Bronze rod and stainless rod, but it just wasnt taking it, so we gave up and through it in the trash... time to buy a new one.
Just placed an order for all new up-pipe bolts, and the collector from RiffRaff diesel, $176 shipped...
After this, my list is pretty small for whats left, just some clean up of the engine bay, and other odds and ends like hose clamps etc.
Cleaned up the valve cover gaskets, and UVCH's. Went to go take apart the exhaust up-pipes from the manifolds and the collector (I pulled it all out as one piece, since there were no heads or turbo on it.) And 1 of the bolts that went into the collector was completely destroyed and wouldn't come out. You could see all the threads flattened where it came out the back. So i had to cut the head off, and drill/tap the hole back to 8mm x 1.25. Then as i was drilling it out, i noticed the hole adjacent from it was cracked through the housing.... We tried to TIG weld it with both Silicon Bronze rod and stainless rod, but it just wasnt taking it, so we gave up and through it in the trash... time to buy a new one.
Just placed an order for all new up-pipe bolts, and the collector from RiffRaff diesel, $176 shipped...
After this, my list is pretty small for whats left, just some clean up of the engine bay, and other odds and ends like hose clamps etc.
Lt.Dan
Member
Hey guys, so i got this new collector for the turbo today, and noticed it didnt come with any studs for the bottom. No problem, as i would prefer to use regular bolts to make install/removal a little easier.
My only question is, what style bolts do you guys think would work best? We have a bolt guy come to our shop once a week, and i was thinking of getting a low profile allen head bolt like this guy:
Im thinking the allen head bolt because i think access would be a breeze with a set of socket allens with the ball end like these:
But they come in either a black oxide coating, or regular zinc coating. Which would be best for this application? The tensile strength is the same at around 115,000 psi for both, the black oxide has been treated for hardness, but the zinc has been treated for corrosion resistance.
Would one be better than the other? I noticed in the up-pipe bolt kit that RiffRaff sent me, they are all black oxide. Should i stick with those, or is there an even better bolt i should be using?
My only question is, what style bolts do you guys think would work best? We have a bolt guy come to our shop once a week, and i was thinking of getting a low profile allen head bolt like this guy:
Im thinking the allen head bolt because i think access would be a breeze with a set of socket allens with the ball end like these:
But they come in either a black oxide coating, or regular zinc coating. Which would be best for this application? The tensile strength is the same at around 115,000 psi for both, the black oxide has been treated for hardness, but the zinc has been treated for corrosion resistance.
Would one be better than the other? I noticed in the up-pipe bolt kit that RiffRaff sent me, they are all black oxide. Should i stick with those, or is there an even better bolt i should be using?
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79jasper
Active member
All I know is when a bolt is stuck and you go trying to use one of those ball end Allen's, you'll strop it out before you know it.
Maybe if you use a normal L Allen to break it loose.
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Maybe if you use a normal L Allen to break it loose.
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Lt.Dan
Member
Going to be pretty difficult to get an L Allen in there, i guarantee. Just looking for an easier way to prepare myself for the future. Should i just get regular flange head grade 10.9 bolts then?
79jasper
Active member
There's really no guarantees anyways.
I cleaned and used anti seize on all the bolts.
Still had one pull the stud with it.
The top ones I replaced. I'm guessing zinc coated. They came out fairly easy though.
I think the black oxide may hold up to corrosion better.
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I cleaned and used anti seize on all the bolts.
Still had one pull the stud with it.
The top ones I replaced. I'm guessing zinc coated. They came out fairly easy though.
I think the black oxide may hold up to corrosion better.
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Lt.Dan
Member
Went to go pull the stud out of the old collector today, one came out fairly easy, the other snapped after coming about half way out. The one that came out easy was replaced maybe a year ago because i snapped it, and had to go to Ford and get one, it was something outrageous like $18 for one stud. Any ideas where to get one for a better price? And what the part number might be? (I lost my receipt for the last one...)
I also talked to the shop that has my motor, he was very apologetic, and said they had just started getting to work on it yesterday. And they expect to have it done, and ready for me by Wednesday of next week. Hes going to reseal the oil pan, dipstick tube, a new rear main seal, and front cover seal, as well as check all of the bearings/rings etc for anything out of the ordinary. So fingers crossed everything goes good, and i get it back Wednesday. Ive been dying to get my truck back up and running again!
I also talked to the shop that has my motor, he was very apologetic, and said they had just started getting to work on it yesterday. And they expect to have it done, and ready for me by Wednesday of next week. Hes going to reseal the oil pan, dipstick tube, a new rear main seal, and front cover seal, as well as check all of the bearings/rings etc for anything out of the ordinary. So fingers crossed everything goes good, and i get it back Wednesday. Ive been dying to get my truck back up and running again!
79jasper
Active member
Go to fastenal?
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Lt.Dan
Member
Ford of Fontana (who is actually doing a 25% of deal on this forum) Can get it for $4.01. Im just going to order it.
Also resurfaced my exhaust manfiolds today, Did it on our 20" Apex Disc Sander. Took some time, but they came out good. Also notice the few nicks in the passenger side head, hope it doesn't cause any problems. Dunno how it happened.
Also resurfaced my exhaust manfiolds today, Did it on our 20" Apex Disc Sander. Took some time, but they came out good. Also notice the few nicks in the passenger side head, hope it doesn't cause any problems. Dunno how it happened.
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Lt.Dan
Member
Cleaned up the engine bay today with a good pressure washer, took off 20 years worth of grime, and even some of the factory undercoating! But shes mostly clean and ready for me to shoehorn this big ass 7.3 into it!
Im going to attempt to install it fully assembled, minus the fan. So i want to install it with the exh. manifolds, up-pipes, turbo, and maybe the front accessories. That way i can do all the torqueing and hard to reach bolts out of the truck, then just lower it in.
Ill let you guys know how it goes, i think the turbo is going to be the deciding factor if it goes in or not, but maybe without the radiator and without the fan, it just might fit.
Im going to attempt to install it fully assembled, minus the fan. So i want to install it with the exh. manifolds, up-pipes, turbo, and maybe the front accessories. That way i can do all the torqueing and hard to reach bolts out of the truck, then just lower it in.
Ill let you guys know how it goes, i think the turbo is going to be the deciding factor if it goes in or not, but maybe without the radiator and without the fan, it just might fit.
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bluedge8
Active member
How most guys do it is to remove the whole front end, grill, rad support etc
Lt.Dan
Member
I was thinking about it, but after looking at it, it looks like a lot of work to get the core support out... Plus im still trying to keep the A/C System in tact, and removing all of that stuff, i would have to remove the condenser... If worse comes to worse, i might unbolt most of it, and lean it all forward, but we will see how it comes out.
dsberman94
Well-known member
If my memory serves me correctly you might be able to unbolt the condenser, wrap it in a blanket and flip it back to the side out of the way.
